Solar charge controllers that can absorb at 14.8v. Let's make a list?
- Thread starter Mwilliamshs
- Start date
Rbertalotto
Explorer
The SC-2030 is a PWM charger that works in tandem with the new TM-2030 TriMetric battery monitor. In constant communication with the TriMetric, the charger adjusts its charging current based on real-time battery information. The SC-2030 is designed for use with a 12V panel (36 cells) and a 12V battery, or a 24V panel (72 cells) and a 24V battery with efficiency comparable to that of MPPT charge controllers, but without the high cost of MPPT. The charger can handle solar currents up to 30A, and is ideally suited for RV and other small off-grid applications. The SC-2030 works optimally with a TM-2030 monitor, or can also work on its own with reduced performance.
One distinguishing feature is the ability to program the amount of excess amp-hour overcharge, as recommended by US Battery, Trojan, and other major battery manufacturers. A four-stage charging algorithm optimizes both battery life and charge-discharge cycle depth.
One distinguishing feature is the ability to program the amount of excess amp-hour overcharge, as recommended by US Battery, Trojan, and other major battery manufacturers. A four-stage charging algorithm optimizes both battery life and charge-discharge cycle depth.
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Thanks everyone for the helpful and relevant comments. I've updated my ignore list. Good for brevity, can't be bad for stress either lol
The Bluesky Solarboost 3024il = ~$375, so too rich for my blood. Only need/want ~200w of solar so hoping to keep the entire system around $800. That means the controller needs to be <$200. Which brings us to the Bluesky Solarboost 2512iX at ~$200. That's worth more investigation I think. Thanks again for the info!
Looks like you're right about the Bogart Engineering SC-2030! 30 amp rating, has a preset with 14.8v and can go higher. At ~$130 it looks pretty good! Thanks! ($119 @ http://www.kansaswindpower.net/charge_controls.htm and 2030 monitor is $159 @ http://www.kansaswindpower.net/meters.htm)
The Bluesky Solarboost 3024il = ~$375, so too rich for my blood. Only need/want ~200w of solar so hoping to keep the entire system around $800. That means the controller needs to be <$200. Which brings us to the Bluesky Solarboost 2512iX at ~$200. That's worth more investigation I think. Thanks again for the info!
Looks like you're right about the Bogart Engineering SC-2030! 30 amp rating, has a preset with 14.8v and can go higher. At ~$130 it looks pretty good! Thanks! ($119 @ http://www.kansaswindpower.net/charge_controls.htm and 2030 monitor is $159 @ http://www.kansaswindpower.net/meters.htm)
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Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
The CTEK D250S Dual is capped at 14.4V, can handle only 23v input (less than 2-100w panels) and costs like $280. No thanks.
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The SunSaver absolutely can absorb at 14.8. The charge cycle is fully programmable with the usb cable interface they sell and their free SW. you can set absorption to anything you need.
Wicked 2007
Observer
BlueSky - 2512iX-HV MPPT. Fully programmable to your charging needs/patterns
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
You're referring to the $195.50 SunSaver MPPT. I'm referring to the $45.80 SunSaver PWM. Prices are from the same store, EcoDirect. For $195 I think there are better chargers available than the SunSaver MPPT, which shares its 15A max rating with the SunSaver PWM.
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Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Currently unavailable from Amazon but looks to be ~$200 elsewhere. Bit steep. Doesn't include sensors.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I suppose there may be "better" (whatever that means) MPPTs available but none are as small as the Morningstar sunsaver and it's also rated for extreme temps, so it capable of being mounted in the engine compartment which is exactly why I'm using it in my LR3. IMO you'd be hard pressed to find a better MPPT rated to 200w that is fully programable for a SUV or pickup application:
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Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Perhaps I should've said "better suited to my application" because the compactness of the unit doesn't matter much to me but obviously it suits your needs pretty well. Everything is a trade-off. How long have you had it? Any issues with it being under the hood? Got a review I can read?
Its been in LR3's engine compartment for about 8 months now and zero issues with it under the hood. I only power the MPPT up when its needed (to not suck any Ah out of the battery) ...I have it fused to the battery so remove the 25 amp fuse to power it off and put the fuse in to power it up. For the panel input on the MPPT I have 10 gauge wire going into an Anderson connector plug.
I then have 25 Ft of 10 gauge cable with an Anderson on one end that plugs into the MPPT's Anderson and then MC4 on the other end for the panels to plug into.
As for a review the MPPT does exactly what it is meant to do - supply up to 200W of solar power into a battery. I also have the USB PC interface and can also verify the 4 Stage cycle is fully programmable (as are the load parms if you have something connected to the load on the MPPT). Not sure what more of a review I can give
I have a Victron 702 Battery monitor that monitors the amps going into and out of my Aux battery (a Deka Intimidator Group 31 that I stuffed into the LR3: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...tery-to-the-AUX-battery-location-in-the-LR3-) ). I chose the Victron 702 again for its size....its a typical 2 1/4 round gauge so very compact and I have it mounted in a gauge pod on the driver side.
Here is the data sheet for the Morningstar SunSaver MPPT: http://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SSMPPT_ENG10_1111.pdf
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BTW I saw someone mentioned the Renogy ViewStar 30A PWM as something that fits the bill since its charge cycle is fully programable. I also want to point out that the 20 AMP version of ViewStar may be better suited for you since you indicated you needed something to support 200W. The ViewStar 20A PWM can support up to 240W, is a smaller physical size and its only $79 and fully programmable as well: http://www.renogy-store.com/20A-PWM-ViewStar-solar-charge-controller-p/ctrl-pwm20-lcd-vs.htm . I ran this prior to getting the SunSaver MPPT.
doug720
Expedition Leader
I run a fairly large solar system in our class A RV. We dry camp for extended duration - several weeks at a time, and rely on the solar system to provide our power. We run satellite TV, music, lights - mostly led, but a few florescent fixtures, and live comfortably while camping.
Our system consists of 600+ watts of panels and 2 battery banks - 1 is 8 Trojan 105 6 volts, 2 is 4 305 6 volts. All are controlled by a Morningstar controller - I don't recall the model. This system has been in operation for almost 13 years. The original 105'S lasted for 8.5 years and we are still running the original 305's, so the system works, and works well.
We charge at 14.4 - 14.6 volts, which is what the the vehicles charging system charges at, and what our 3 step Xantrex smart charger output is.
Is there advantages to exactly 14.8 volts? Maybe, but our system works great and our batteries have lasted considerably longer then most other systems have.
Just another opinion.
Our system consists of 600+ watts of panels and 2 battery banks - 1 is 8 Trojan 105 6 volts, 2 is 4 305 6 volts. All are controlled by a Morningstar controller - I don't recall the model. This system has been in operation for almost 13 years. The original 105'S lasted for 8.5 years and we are still running the original 305's, so the system works, and works well.
We charge at 14.4 - 14.6 volts, which is what the the vehicles charging system charges at, and what our 3 step Xantrex smart charger output is.
Is there advantages to exactly 14.8 volts? Maybe, but our system works great and our batteries have lasted considerably longer then most other systems have.
Just another opinion.
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Lost in Translation
Methinks that there is much getting lost in translation here. Thus there is a bit of fingerprinting and misunderstanding.
Most lead acid battery manufacturers spec four voltages and amperages:
-- Bulk - High voltage/Highest amperage
-- Absorb - High voltage/lower amperage
-- Float - Lowest voltage/lowest amperage
-- Equalize - Highest voltage/lower amperage/limited time
Each company varies these a bit with open, liquid acid batteries generally calling for the highest voltages, AGM's a bit lower, and gel the lowest.
The trick is that these voltages are generally quoted at 20C/70F. This is where you generally find the "magic" 14.4v for AGM. But read a bit deeper and you will find the recommended voltage varies greatly with the temperature of the battery. Thus a Lifeline AGM calls for:
15v @ 30F
14.4v @ 70F
14v @ 100F
So the real issues are:
-- Does the solar controller adjust the charging voltage according to the temperature, and, if so,
-- Does the voltage range match the specs for the chosen battery?
Or, to put it another way, does the charger offer a profile that matches a given battery?
Methinks that there is much getting lost in translation here. Thus there is a bit of fingerprinting and misunderstanding.
Most lead acid battery manufacturers spec four voltages and amperages:
-- Bulk - High voltage/Highest amperage
-- Absorb - High voltage/lower amperage
-- Float - Lowest voltage/lowest amperage
-- Equalize - Highest voltage/lower amperage/limited time
Each company varies these a bit with open, liquid acid batteries generally calling for the highest voltages, AGM's a bit lower, and gel the lowest.
The trick is that these voltages are generally quoted at 20C/70F. This is where you generally find the "magic" 14.4v for AGM. But read a bit deeper and you will find the recommended voltage varies greatly with the temperature of the battery. Thus a Lifeline AGM calls for:
15v @ 30F
14.4v @ 70F
14v @ 100F
So the real issues are:
-- Does the solar controller adjust the charging voltage according to the temperature, and, if so,
-- Does the voltage range match the specs for the chosen battery?
Or, to put it another way, does the charger offer a profile that matches a given battery?