solar panel -wiring to access through the cab.

[tigerstripe40]

Hi this is my first post on this forum

I've just mounted up a 65 watt Solartech panel on the roof of my 08 Tacoma.
I am running a Coleman Stirling Compressor fridge. It pulls between .8 and 4 amps, depending on chill level.

I've got the wiring running in a way that I don't prefer. Currently, the wires are run through the weatherstripping and essentiall the doors close on it. I don't like that and want to run the wiring in a more 'clean' fashion.

Initially, I was going to use a Military 38999 style connector, as there was a dent in the roof of my tacoma and that would have been a great spot to drill through the roof and mount it. The towers for the crossbars (Yakima Rack) sit right where the dent is. So that idea is out.

I'm trying to figure out other 'clean' ways of running the wire to make it all look more of a professional install and not such a hack job...
I've got a SolarTech 10 amp charge controller, and a 6 fuse Blue Seas fuse panel to mount up and plenty of wire.

Any ideas? Any pics?

thanks!

-James

 

[ETAV8R]

Watching this as I just got my second battery and will soon be putting the project into motion.

 

[chadlanc]

I used these from west marine. it twists to fit perfectly around the wire.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...=11151&productId=35103&langId=-1#.UvZ1CHnpWuc

 

[DaveInDenver]

What chadlanc links work great to seal cables through a bulkhead but are not connectors. I think what James is asking for are weatherproof power connectors. At least 38999 types are mil-spec circular sealed connectors, so I'm assuming that's what he's asking about.

The 38999 is in a word awesome. But also very expensive and probably overkill here.

I use the Amp CPC connectors when I need a sealing connection. These are a similar idea to 38999 but cheaper. In plastic they're very reasonably or you can get metal shells, which for a roof that sees a lot of UV is probably a good idea. I have not used them for super high current (like a battery), but have had no problem at a few amps. So I would think they'd be a good choice for a small solar panel like this.

http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=AMP Series 1 CPC Circular Plastic Connectors

If you go with the Series 5 you get round 0.125 contacts which are rated for 45 amps or Series 3 with blade contacts that are rated for 25 amps in a reasonably small shell and rated for weather. They would not necessarily be good for submerged applications but totally fine for anything external on a vehicle. I use them on signal connections out in the elements and they hold up fine to rain and snow.

So for a bulkhead maybe consider 213889-2:

And the mating plug 213905-1:

The whole interface would probably be about $20 in parts. You order shells, pins and backshells separately, so make sure you get everything.

 

[ETAV8R]

So do we drill out the floor of the truck to get these through from the bottom?

 

[tigerstripe40]

What chadlanc links work great to seal cables through a bulkhead but are not connectors. I think what James is asking for are weatherproof power connectors. At least 38999 types are mil-spec circular sealed connectors, so I'm assuming that's what he's asking about.

The 38999 is in a word awesome. But also very expensive and probably overkill here.

Yes, this is precisely what I am after.
I do have 1 38999 connector, and I got few pieces parts to make it work. I'm just wondering about how it's going to look when it's assembled on the roof. OTOH, I am probably caring too much about the aesthetics.
The one I have is that military green color. I was thinking about putting it into my brass tumbler for a few days to polish off the old paint or at least knock the loose stuff off and then paint it the Silver Streak Metallic color of the truck.

I've got a couple pics of what it looks like now.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I thought 38999 are plated or anodized, not painted, so not sure how easily the finish would come off. Couldn't say for sure, though.

ETAV8R:
You'd have to drill a hole of some sort. With the flanged one the hole would be for a #17 shell, which is a 1" hole, and 4 smaller ones around the flange. They also make a version that is free hanging that does not have the 4-hole flange. In that case you'd drill a smaller hole to accommodate the cable and then use a backshell to seal the connector. In truth that would not be all that much smaller since you'd need to seal the cable that passes through the metal.

 

[tigerstripe40]

So here is the connector I have.
There are a few pieces not in the pic because they are in the tumbler right now.
When I was looking for the connector, I found that aluminum nut that threads onto it perfectly. I am going to drill the hole for the connector, smear silicone on the flange of the connector and then install it from behind the sheetmetal, snugging the nut down to secure it and squeeze the silicone into the metal.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Am I wrong, but it looks like you're missing the coupling shroud from the plug?

IOW, the knurled part (ignoring that this is a different series with the female contacts in the plug):

 

[tigerstripe40]

Am I wrong, but it looks like you're missing the coupling shroud from the plug?

It is in the tumbler getting cleaned.

 

[DaveInDenver]

10-4

That's pretty sweet. We use 38999s all over the place, your truck will be like the Mars Rover and just about anything that's left the Earth's cozy confines forever.

 

[RangerXLT]

This SAE Plug was recommended to me by a member on here. It's made by zamp solar. Worked out perfect for me.

 

[ETAV8R]

That is slick! ^^^^

 

[mmaattppoo]

Content removed in protest of discontinuation of Tapatalk support.

 

[RangerXLT]

Also looks very nice. All about the application needed.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk