***SOLD*** 1994 Diesel 4Runner - Austin, TX

bloc

New member
VEHICLE SOLD


EDIT: Stand to miss out on a motorcycle I really want, price change: $9,500
EDIT#2: Been daily driving it since tuning the pump for some mileage figures: 21mpg city/mixed, 26mpg @ 70mph on the freeway.

1994 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD Diesel
~179k on chassis, ~100k on engine, ~85k on transmission
(odometer not accurate for the last 10k indicated miles, have timeline of all mods to verify mileage)
Power windows/locks, Sunroof.. Very clean southern frame/chassis

Engine:
1994 Toyota 1KZ-TE 3.0L I4 Turbodiesel engine
1994 Rebuilt Zexel mechanical injection pump from a Mitsubishi 4M40 engine
EVO8 front mount IC (primarily for engine longevity & mileage)
OEM Toyota Solid flywheel/clutch kit

Drivetrain:
1987 Toyota R151F "turbo" transmission + RF1A Gear-driven transfer case
OEM bellhousing, no cut/welded or chinese knockoffs
3.73 gears F&R, rear got all new diff bearings & wheel bearings ~12k miles ago
Toyota manual locking hubs
ADD front diff converted to non-ADD

Suspension:
Stock IFS + Poly bushings
Bilstein yellows F&R

Other stuff:
Safari Snorkel
Alpine CDE-HD137BT CD/media player
Custom budbuilt-style crossmember fabricated from 3/8" plate steel
5 Good 31" BFG A/Ts
EGT gauge
Uniden PRO520XL CB Radio & Wilson "Little Will" magnetic antenna
Black Magic Extreme electric fan
Dual 750CCA batteries wired in parallel
B100 resistant fuel lines
Hidden internal switches for rear window operation when sleeping inside vehicle
Hidden starter interrupt

The Good:
It's a DIESEL 4RUNNER
Cold A/C
No oil leaks
KZN130 radiator (HUGE)
Problematic transmission heat exchanger removed from radiator
All synthetic fluids
Runs great and will do so for a long time

The Bad:
Tach doesn't work. There is an output from the pump but you'll need a creative solution to use it.
Bullseye crack in windshield (hasn't grown at all in 5 years, OEM quality ******)
Couple cracks in vinyl dash
Driver's seat cushion torn
Tailgate carpet & shifter boot are blue (don't match other interior)
Haven't finalized radiator overflow bottle solution
Haven't addressed windshield washer bottle
Haven't finalized throttle cable mounting. Works fine & will for long time, but isn't as clean a solution as the rest of the truck
Front driveshaft needs balancing. Not noticeable unless in 4wd above ~30mph
A couple dings & scrapes on body.. otherwise very clean/no wrecks

Spare parts to go with truck:
New:
Oil filter
Exhaust manifold, turbo to manifold, oil line to turbo & downpipe gaskets
3 rear wheel bearings
A/C tensioner bearing
Injector gaskets

Used:
(lightly used) air filter
Trailer wiring kit
Thermostat
Cruise control actuator assembly (significant mods to throttle cam needed for use. Wiring & control computer all still installed)
Tbelt tensioner & pulley
OEM drive flanges
KZN130 mechanical fan & shroud

NOTE: some parts are available in the states (some seals, water pump, oil filter, fuel filter, etc), and others will need to be ordered from Japan. This is surprisingly quick, easy, and affordable through contacts & methods that I'll provide the seller. I purposely used as much USDM hardware as I could to make parts availability as little of an issue as possible. That includes the Mitsubishi pump. A full seal kit can be picked up (usually in stock) at most injection shops for ~$35.


So, as is obvious by now, I'm posting my awesome diesel 4runner for sale. I never thought I'd do this, (and built it with that mentality), but landing the career of a lifetime 1k miles from where I built the 4runner to play means other options are better right now (a KTM adventure bike, specifically). I have info and build threads peppered around the internet, and it is relatively well known, but I'll provide a brief story of this truck here for potential buyers and generally curious people. Any questions, please feel free to ask.

In 2008 I decided to build a diesel 4runner, with the eventual plan being to move to Colorado and spend a ton of time camping in the mountains out of it. I initially bought a 1KZ-TE engine + auto transmission from a contact in Dallas (NOT one of the importers selling dodgy/broken engines on ebay), then found a clean (enough) 1994 4Runner located in Houston for the swap. I spent a few months doing the fabrication and wiring work to install the engine as it was, and ended up with a great engine in a great chassis with a horrible automatic transmission. That lasted about 10k miles before I started tinkering and sourced a R151F "turbo" trans & case, Solid flywheel & bellhousing, (both new, from the UK and Japan respectively), 3.73 gears.. and while I was at it, shoehorned a FMIC in from an EVO8 and built intercooler piping for it. I drove it for a while (SUCH an awesome rig for it's purpose: camping & jeep roads in the mountains), then a career change basically meant it had to sit for a year or two while I finished school and finish my first year at work before I could start using vacation time. I loved driving the truck, but it didn't make sense to rack up daily miles on such a rare vehicle, especially when my other car gets almost 50mpg.

Right about when I started fixing the last issue I had with the truck (ditching the electronic injection pump), I landed a dream job here in Austin, and no more move to Colorado means there are better options than keeping the 4Runner. I went ahead with the pump swap, but haven't put a ton of miles on it to verify fuel efficiency. My best tanks with the old electronic setup were in the 25mpg range @ 70mph.. I hear this pump will do better but need to drive it some to verify. At the very least it offers exponentially more options for tuning so you can do whatever you want with it. Power or mileage. Maybe even both?

The original build thread is located here: http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?5128-1KZ-TE-Auto-into-94-4runner
Should give you some idea of the work I have into this rig. Since it hasn't been stated explicitly yet, I did ALL of the work on this thing. Wiring/fabrication/mechanical.


$9,500 takes it. Clean title in hand. Will consider a trade for a 2004-2005 KTM 950 Adventure S + Cash (VERY specific on the bike.. MUST be an Adventure S or R, preferably from the early years before they lowered the suspension)
Located in Austin, TX. I'm open to fly-n-drive, but it would probably need to be on a weekend. My work schedule during the week is pretty crazy.

Thanks for looking,
-Justin

Recent photo:
7498530730_e24e9c37f3_b.jpg


In it's natural habitat
3688248783_23880a8d98_b.jpg


MANY more photos: (note, bump strip missing from driver's door will be reinstalled before sale)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/justin_40d/page2/
 
Last edited:

Fester

Observer
Nice looking truck. Couple of questions.

Did you get the low power issue figured out, your build thread stopped abruptly.
Does cruise control work now.
Would an off the shelf winch bumper fit with the inter cooler.
What's needed near term as far as routine maintenance or consumables, tires, brakes, fluids...

With all of the custom fabrication you did would this be a total nightmare for someone who isn't mechanically inclined or for a Toyota mechanic.

Thanks

Fester
 

bloc

New member
So far I've figured out the timing part of the equation.. just need to add fuel to match what the electronic pump was delivering. That's slated for this weekend.. now that the truck is officially for sale, and some of my other commitments have lightened up so that I have time to mess with it.

Cruise isn't working, because the actuator isn't installed. I'd need to figure out how to get the cruise actuator cable to pull on the throttle linkage cam, and I don't have much in the way of fabrication resources available in the new city I've moved to. Otherwise the wiring and "brain" are still there, and worked fine before the mechanical pump swap.

I'm pretty sure a winch bumper would work well with the IC, though anything with a closed top plate (IE: ARB, or most plate steel bumpers) that follows the profile of the original bumper would probably need trimming. Tube, on the other hand, usually is open on top so it would bolt right up. Basically it comes down to the bumper. Even if you did need trimming, it should be pretty easy stuff. I did all the trimming of the factory bumper with a sawzall & a coping saw + fine pitch metal blade. No flames/torches necessary.

engine oil change approx 1k ago (5k between changes is my interval with this oil)
new transmission & transfer case oil ~5k ago
both diffs got new fluid ~12k ago
All tires show some slight dry rot but have a ton of tread
It got all new brake fluid when I did the swap, but beyond that I haven't messed with the brakes. IIRC the fronts have 1/3 left, and the rears somewhere around half.
OEM toyota coolant should be good for a long time...
Anything else I'm missing?

Honestly aside from simply being unfamiliar with this actual engine, it shouldn't be any harder to work on than any other toyota. They sold this engine in this chassis everywhere else in the world, so a lot of the swap bolted in. I had to extend the harness across the engine bay, but the plugs themselves would have physically plugged right into the chassis harness after swapping pins around. I took things further and installed the JDM fuse block, but my thinking behind this was to get it to match the KZN130 wiring diagrams so that I could troubleshoot any problems that came up in the future with already published documents. The mechanical pump was sourced from overseas, but that whole situation was a bit of a paradox. The pump that came on the engine was super-rare in the US and lots of shops wouldn't even look at it, were I to need help. Plus, diagnosing issues with it was nearly impossible with Denso's pathetic engine management.. especially by the Bosch standards I'm used to on TDIs. By importing and installing an overseas pump never sold here, but that happens to be exactly like the pump sold on thousands of cummins and other diesel engines prolific in this country, any shop can work on it and usually stocks parts for it. Plus, diagnostics/repair/adjustments can be done with a little reading + a wrench and a screwdriver.

Things like Factory Service Manuals and wiring diagrams are easily available online.. though I'd be happy to provide those with the vehicle, as well as any notes I have.

One thing that is worth knowing about me.. I'm a little OCD about my vehicles being as "factory" as possible, within reasonable limits.. Toyota pays engineers a TON of money to make these things work well for a long time and not have many warranty issues.. or at least they did back when this thing was built. I'm not going to try to reinvent the wheel when it rolls just fine. A benefit of this mentality is most of the available documentation and parts network out there (there is a lot on this engine/chassis) applies to my rig really well.

So no, I don't think it would be a nightmare at all for anyone seriously looking at buying a truck with a diesel swapped in. Basic maintenance along the lines of what someone not mechanically inclined would be capable of would be no different with this engine than any other 4runner.. aside from having to change the fuel filter every other oil change. Beyond that, anyone versed in toyotas, or cars in general, would be able to jump right in.

And to take that a step further.. this thing has purposely been built for reliability and simplicity (mechanical pump, 5spd trans, non-electronic transfer case), which makes it easier for any local mechanic to accomplish things than if it had the rare engine management and transmission setup I started with.

Anyway.. thanks for the great questions, and let me know if you have any more.
-Justin
 

bloc

New member
Power issues resolved! Now makes more power than with the electronic pump, at the same boost level. Just a little smoke.. I don't think I EVER saw any with the E pump.

It appears these things are breathing restricted.. and my snorkel probably doesn't help things at all. If I turn fuel up any more than giving a light haze, EGTs head toward getting out of hand quickly. Adding boost would probably sort that out easily and safely, especially since I have the FMIC. I'll leave that up to a buyer though.
 

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