Phoenix Custom - was purpose built by Phoenix to fit into a 6.5' 1/2 ton (f150/1500) truck bed, tailgate up!
Easy fits into my '19 F-250 short bed AND I added 3" bumpers to the front.
Camper ties down using in-bed tie down points, no outriggers needed.
Located in Ventura, CA. Willing to travel to meet up if not too far.
$25K (Original build price was $31K)
Camper specs:
-POWER Up/down Roof.... push a button and it goes up, push a button and it goes down. Motors have limit switches that cut power at the full extend/retracted positions.
-2x 100 watt solar panels (200w total)
-Insulation package
-20 gallons fresh water capacity
-7 gallons grey
-5 gallon Thetford casette toilet (can be emptied in any toilet, no need to go to RV dump)
-New 6 gallon hot water heater w/its own cutout for winterization (3)
-Propane heater, and electric 900w(low)/1500w(high) heater
-Indoor shower with long hose to reach outside (shower curtain not currently installed, I don't shower inside it)
-Queen size bed w/new 5" memory foam mattress (replaced last month) and Defender Hypervent condensation prevention under mattress matting
also has 3x 90mm 12v fans for under-bed storage ventilation mounted at the front bulkhead w/ on/off switch
-Large under bed storage
-120v 15A shore power hook-up w/built in battery charger
-12v high amp "Aux shore line" to plug into truck so the truck can charge the battery or run the inverter (1)
-Odyssey FT 1800 battery, installed last year (double the capacity of a standard Group 27 coach battery, Old G27 - 92Ah @ 20hr, FT 1800 - 214Ah @ 20hr)
-2kW pure sine wave inverter w/remote turn on.
-12v(DC)/24v(DC)/120v(AC) Dometic fridge (I have never had to turn it off, on 24/7 and the beer stays cold)(2)
-2 burner Dometic propane stove/sink combo
-3 speed, manual up/down Fantastic Fan w/rain hood and auto on when opened
-12v power port (cigerette style) and 4 USB ports (2 2.0 and 2 3.1)
-1 20lb LP tank
-6' Rear ARB awning
There is also a 7-way plug that can be used to charge the coach battery while driving , but this is a low amperage line, I don't use it.
(1)The 12v line I installed so I could run the electric heater while driving, when I drove to NY last Dec to move daughter.
I ran the electric heater on low and it kept the camper at a nice 55-65 in sub freezing temps. Coldest night was in the 20's (F).
I only ran the big propane heater in the mornings when I was making coffee or off shore power with the truck off. My travel coffee maker
is 900w also, and I didn't want to overload the inverter or power panel when on shore power.
(2)With the FT1800 there might be a .2v drop in battery voltage from sun down to sun up just running the fridge, another .1v if the fantastic fan is
running on low all night. Auto switches between 120v A/C and 12v DC depending on if shore power is hooked up or not.
(3)Ya... when I first got it it had a 6g water heater tank... the anode was shot and the tank was rusty. I put in a
tank-less to replace it..... there wasn't a cutout to winterize it before my big trip to NY from CA and back last Dec.....
SO, on the trip the tank-less froze... and busted.... and then thawed out at some point and drained my entire
fresh water tank on the freeway.... lessons learned.... there is now a cutout for the water heater, and I added one before the water
pump on the f/w tank output, in case you have to do anything with the water pump (it had come out of its mounts at one point due to,
IMO, being mounted upside down... fixed, and it is much quieter now.
Desert pic is from our last outing back in Jan after my trip to NY.
Build sheet added.
Found a photo of my truck side high amperage 12v line I installed into my truck bed, and one of the top up.
Thank you for looking.
Easy fits into my '19 F-250 short bed AND I added 3" bumpers to the front.
Camper ties down using in-bed tie down points, no outriggers needed.
Located in Ventura, CA. Willing to travel to meet up if not too far.
$25K (Original build price was $31K)
Camper specs:
-POWER Up/down Roof.... push a button and it goes up, push a button and it goes down. Motors have limit switches that cut power at the full extend/retracted positions.
-2x 100 watt solar panels (200w total)
-Insulation package
-20 gallons fresh water capacity
-7 gallons grey
-5 gallon Thetford casette toilet (can be emptied in any toilet, no need to go to RV dump)
-New 6 gallon hot water heater w/its own cutout for winterization (3)
-Propane heater, and electric 900w(low)/1500w(high) heater
-Indoor shower with long hose to reach outside (shower curtain not currently installed, I don't shower inside it)
-Queen size bed w/new 5" memory foam mattress (replaced last month) and Defender Hypervent condensation prevention under mattress matting
also has 3x 90mm 12v fans for under-bed storage ventilation mounted at the front bulkhead w/ on/off switch
-Large under bed storage
-120v 15A shore power hook-up w/built in battery charger
-12v high amp "Aux shore line" to plug into truck so the truck can charge the battery or run the inverter (1)
-Odyssey FT 1800 battery, installed last year (double the capacity of a standard Group 27 coach battery, Old G27 - 92Ah @ 20hr, FT 1800 - 214Ah @ 20hr)
-2kW pure sine wave inverter w/remote turn on.
-12v(DC)/24v(DC)/120v(AC) Dometic fridge (I have never had to turn it off, on 24/7 and the beer stays cold)(2)
-2 burner Dometic propane stove/sink combo
-3 speed, manual up/down Fantastic Fan w/rain hood and auto on when opened
-12v power port (cigerette style) and 4 USB ports (2 2.0 and 2 3.1)
-1 20lb LP tank
-6' Rear ARB awning
There is also a 7-way plug that can be used to charge the coach battery while driving , but this is a low amperage line, I don't use it.
(1)The 12v line I installed so I could run the electric heater while driving, when I drove to NY last Dec to move daughter.
I ran the electric heater on low and it kept the camper at a nice 55-65 in sub freezing temps. Coldest night was in the 20's (F).
I only ran the big propane heater in the mornings when I was making coffee or off shore power with the truck off. My travel coffee maker
is 900w also, and I didn't want to overload the inverter or power panel when on shore power.
(2)With the FT1800 there might be a .2v drop in battery voltage from sun down to sun up just running the fridge, another .1v if the fantastic fan is
running on low all night. Auto switches between 120v A/C and 12v DC depending on if shore power is hooked up or not.
(3)Ya... when I first got it it had a 6g water heater tank... the anode was shot and the tank was rusty. I put in a
tank-less to replace it..... there wasn't a cutout to winterize it before my big trip to NY from CA and back last Dec.....
SO, on the trip the tank-less froze... and busted.... and then thawed out at some point and drained my entire
fresh water tank on the freeway.... lessons learned.... there is now a cutout for the water heater, and I added one before the water
pump on the f/w tank output, in case you have to do anything with the water pump (it had come out of its mounts at one point due to,
IMO, being mounted upside down... fixed, and it is much quieter now.
Desert pic is from our last outing back in Jan after my trip to NY.
Build sheet added.
Found a photo of my truck side high amperage 12v line I installed into my truck bed, and one of the top up.
Thank you for looking.
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