Solv-Tec K-Seal Coolant Leak Repair
- Thread starter TexasTJ
- Start date
jeff_wright
Adventurer
I'm thinking of doing the same thing... interested in responses on the product.
UnfrozenCaveman
Explorer
I've got a teeny leak in the valley pan area - shocking, I know 
.
If I could find come locally, I'd be more than willing to try it.
I've got an extra radiator on the shelf just in case it plugs things up.
.If I could find come locally, I'd be more than willing to try it.
I've got an extra radiator on the shelf just in case it plugs things up.
overlander
Expedition Leader
I'm interested too. I googled it and there is a video demonstration of it on youtube.
overlander
Expedition Leader
I ordered some from EE. It's on the way.
spikemd
Explorer
I have not used K-Seal specifically, but I did try a BARS stop leak product, which is pretty similar. I had a small coolant leak near the front of bank 2 on my 4.6 SE Range Rover. I was/am afraid it could be the head gasket, but didn't find any other typical signs. I tried to find the source numerous times and was unsuccessful. I figured, try a product and if it doesn't work I need to pull the heads and do the headgasket anyway.
Well, guess what... it actually worked!
My small coolant leak is no longer there. I do have a hard time feeling comfortable with 'quick fixes' as they can sometimes be covering up larger issues, but in this case, it seemed to work for me. I have noticed the remnants of the product in the overflow tank and have contemplated flushing the system. Like the KSeal, it says to keep it in the system though.
Good luck.
Well, guess what... it actually worked!
My small coolant leak is no longer there. I do have a hard time feeling comfortable with 'quick fixes' as they can sometimes be covering up larger issues, but in this case, it seemed to work for me. I have noticed the remnants of the product in the overflow tank and have contemplated flushing the system. Like the KSeal, it says to keep it in the system though.
Good luck.
overlander
Expedition Leader
I have been dealing with a new internal coolant leak that has developed on my just broken in new turbo diesel (approx 30k miles). Couple weeks ago starting getting blue/white smoke when idling, intermittenly. Was consuming what appears to be about 1 gallon of coolant a week. Clearly some leak at the headgasket-not a drop outside the block.
It was suggested to me that the headbolts may need a bit retightening, although this appears to be a point of debate. Regardless, I purchased new coolant, a bottle of K-Seal from EE, and then last weekend pulled the valve cover and checked the torque on all the headbolts. The bolts under the valve cover were not as tight as the bolts outside the valve cover, so I pulled them out and then retorqued to spec. Then I fully drained the coolant (which may be contaminated with exhaust) and added fresh coolant and k-seal.
UPDATE
It's going to take a few weeks to monitor the coolant levels and consumption, but not a spec of white/blue smoke since that work so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'll report back in a few weeks.
Last Saturday I drained all the coolant and then pulled the valve cover off to check the torque on the head bolts as you suggested. Turns out the bolts under valve cover (the inner bolts) were significantly looser than the outer bolts. The manual says the bolts should be torque to 60nm + 150 degrees. Although the inner bolts were at least 60nm, there couldn't be much past that, as I was easily able to tighten them past that with little effort. The outer bolts however (which are supposed to be same spec) would require significant effort to get them to turn (which I opted to not attempt for fear of overtorqueing and snapping a head).
Not knowing exactly what the inner bolts were actually torque to , I removed them completely, then retorqued to spec. I refilled with fresh coolant, and added an application of K-Seal engine block sealant. I completed a thorough bleeding of air, and topped off on Sunday.
All that said, last night (Tuesday) I checked the coolant level in the expansion tank and the thermostat housing. The level was still exactly where it was when I topped it off Sunday-not a hint of air anywhere in the system. I also have not seen a bit of white smoke since Saturday, and the coolant temp gauge has been steady. This is coming from a 1 gallon per week consumption rate for the last 3 weeks.
I'm going to continue to monitor coolant level for another week before drawing a final conclusion, but my early read is that the inner bolts had worked loose a bit since new, and the retorquing along with K-Seal (from expedition exchange) seems to have done the job.
It was suggested to me that the headbolts may need a bit retightening, although this appears to be a point of debate. Regardless, I purchased new coolant, a bottle of K-Seal from EE, and then last weekend pulled the valve cover and checked the torque on all the headbolts. The bolts under the valve cover were not as tight as the bolts outside the valve cover, so I pulled them out and then retorqued to spec. Then I fully drained the coolant (which may be contaminated with exhaust) and added fresh coolant and k-seal.
UPDATE
It's going to take a few weeks to monitor the coolant levels and consumption, but not a spec of white/blue smoke since that work so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'll report back in a few weeks.
Last Saturday I drained all the coolant and then pulled the valve cover off to check the torque on the head bolts as you suggested. Turns out the bolts under valve cover (the inner bolts) were significantly looser than the outer bolts. The manual says the bolts should be torque to 60nm + 150 degrees. Although the inner bolts were at least 60nm, there couldn't be much past that, as I was easily able to tighten them past that with little effort. The outer bolts however (which are supposed to be same spec) would require significant effort to get them to turn (which I opted to not attempt for fear of overtorqueing and snapping a head).
Not knowing exactly what the inner bolts were actually torque to , I removed them completely, then retorqued to spec. I refilled with fresh coolant, and added an application of K-Seal engine block sealant. I completed a thorough bleeding of air, and topped off on Sunday.
All that said, last night (Tuesday) I checked the coolant level in the expansion tank and the thermostat housing. The level was still exactly where it was when I topped it off Sunday-not a hint of air anywhere in the system. I also have not seen a bit of white smoke since Saturday, and the coolant temp gauge has been steady. This is coming from a 1 gallon per week consumption rate for the last 3 weeks.
I'm going to continue to monitor coolant level for another week before drawing a final conclusion, but my early read is that the inner bolts had worked loose a bit since new, and the retorquing along with K-Seal (from expedition exchange) seems to have done the job.
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im looking into using this. so did it last for few weeks? months? I had a friend use it one of our baja rovers on a trip for a leaky head gasket. it worked great for the few days we had it in for the drive up the baja. Afterward when we were sateside it was cleaned out during the head job
David Harris
Expedition Leader
I've used K-seal and it worked great. However, it's just going to prolong the inevitable, so it's still best as a temporary fix in my book.
David
David