Some dual battery set up questions.

Signcutter21

Adventurer
Hello all,
So, I decided to install an Engel MT45 in my Jeep Liberty. I plan on removing one of the rear seat sections and building a flat deck to mount it on. I've never done much electrical wiring, other than tapping into the cig lighter power for a cb and lights. I hope you all can help me with a series of questions as I work through everything. I've researched a ton of threads on this forum and it's been very informative.

The first in my laundry list of options was to run a dual battery system or not. I don't anticipate having the vehicle off for more than a day, but decided to play it safe and go dually. Placement of the aux battery is my first dilemma. Under the deck on the driver’s side rear floor or to finagle some sort of engine bay option are my two options. In order to run an aux battery in the engine bay I’ll need to remove the factory air box and use some sort of cold air intake.

Obviously I would rather not position the air intake filter closer to the engine as it would be bringing in hotter air. That leaves me with the other option of mounting the battery near the engine. Does anybody know what adverse effects this will have on the battery? I’ve been looking at the Optima site and haven’t seen much on that topic. In choosing this option, I can foresee having to run the air intake over the aux battery. Any downside to this?

The next dilemma that I’m anticipating is what kind of battery management system I plan on using.
-Option 1 is a Blue Sea or similar manual battery switch. This would be the easiest and cheapest option. The downside is the possibility of forgetting to switch back and draining the batteries; leaving me stranded.
-Option 2 is the Wrangler NW set up.
-Option 3 is a National Luna Dual battery package.

I am still researching both option 2 & 3. Both seem to get great reviews here and if I’m not mistaken do the same thing. Correct? I know on the Wrangler NW that I’ll need the solenoid and the switch to be able to control everything, minus cables, terminals, etc. On the NL split charge kit, it comes with “everything”, however if I need to run the aux battery to the back, will I need to get heavier cables? Would I be able to just run the solenoid solo, or is the battery monitor necessary to control the solenoid?

Finally, I would like to add a fuse box to get rid of the piggybacking off any available power source I can find and to clear up the mess of wires. I’ve read that it’s better to run accessories of the aux battery, and then other people/ places say off the main battery. What would y’all recommend? I believe I have some room to add the Blue Sea fuse box under the hood.

I really appreciate everyone’s advice and comments. I’ll try to update and as I get through all these obstacles.

mike

(tried to post some pics of under-hood area with different option, but couldn't get them to upload, i'll try later i guess.)
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
If at all possible, I would put the batteries under the hood. Heat and vibration are a batteries biggest fear....so if it is close to the engine, try to keep it as far from the exhaust manifold(s) as possible.

I like to run all of my non-OEM circuits off of the second battery, currently with a Hellroaring isolator between them. This leaves the factory wiring essentially unmolested.

If you need room for a fuse block, relays, etc., don't discount the underside of your hood. I used RTV to essentially glue my fuse block to the bottom of my TJ's hood....it works really well, and with some effort, I could remove it if I wanted to, leaving no holes behind.
 

Off-Grid Engineering

Supporting Sponsor
my suggestion would be to go with an under-hood setup. I somehow crammed two optimas under my hood side-by-side. I HIGHLY reccomend the Wrangler NW kit... inexpensive, easy to install, very reliable, and the best customer service I have ever had! If you want the option of controlling the batteries, Wrangler NW offers an in-cab switch... or you can simply run the isolator alone (under 100 bucks!)

Also, I recommend running all of your accessory circuits through a fuse block and into the auxilary battery.

I just did this. Any questions, feel free

Here's mine...

IMG_1753.jpg


IMG_1751.jpg
 

rambrush

Adventurer
I would suggest going with a hell roaring kit as well. Batteries could be Odyssey military spec lay em sideways if needed.
 

Signcutter21

Adventurer
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll check out the Hell Roaring kit also.

Picked up a yellow top optima the other day to go with the main redtop that ive had for a few years as a main battery.

off to research more, thanks again.

mike
 

Signcutter21

Adventurer
So I decided to play around today and see how things would fit. Is the yellow top to close to the engine? It'd take some work to make up a dual battery tray. I like the way it looks though. I will put up pic of it on the other side of the engine soon.
DSCF0297.jpg


Also a couple pics of the Engel where i plan to put it. Plenty of room behind drivers seat, though the lid will not open all the way. Plus it'll be far enough from the sticky fingers of a 3 year old. Now I just need to get a decking made up. Plan on using 1" square tubing.
DSCF0291.jpg

DSCF0294.jpg
 
Last edited:

swanyo

Observer
Signcutter21 said:
So I decided to play around today and see how things would fit. Is the yellow top to close to the engine? It'd take some work to make up a dual battery tray. I like the way it looks though. I will put up pic of it on the other side of the engine soon.
DSCF0297.jpg


Also a couple pics of the Engel where i plan to put it. Plenty of room behind drivers seat, though the lid will not open all the way. Plus it'll be far enough from the sticky fingers of a 3 year old. Now I just need to get a decking made up. Plan on using 1" square tubing.
DSCF0291.jpg

DSCF0294.jpg
Mike, did you fit the batteries under the hood? I also have a KJ. I have been thinking about installing a second battery in the back so that I could take the Engle when I didn't want to pull my trailer. If you were successful I might prefer mounting under the hood myself.

Scott
 

Signcutter21

Adventurer
Scott,
sadly, my dedication to this project has been waning. I have not even bothered with the dual battery set up issues much since posting the pics. Still working on the frame for the Engel. Got the frame built and now am still trying to get the leg length and angles down. I hope to get more worked on during the week.

I was looking at going with some sort of cold air intake. After some research, seems like the factory box works better. I guess I'll start looking at some sort of dual battery tray setup soon. There is a guy on LOST that posted pics of his aux battery set up on the rear floorboards. Sorry don't have the link handy.

later,mike

which fridge do you have? As you can see the 45 is a pretty tight fit.
 

swanyo

Observer
I have the Engle 45. I would most likely need to install it in the back as I have to keep the seats available for kids and the dog. I haven't even tried yet to see if it would fit and leave me any room for other stuff. I guess I have a project for this weekend! I know what you mean by it being hard to keep on track with projects, I always seem to have 3 or 4 half way completed at any given time.

Thanks, Scott
 

Signcutter21

Adventurer
With the 45 it'll be VERY tight in the cargo area. You're gonna have to place it sideways, too long unfortunately. There will be less than a foot of room on the side. That's why I pulled the small seat.

On a side note, got some work done on it the last two nights. Frame is built, deck is cut, and carpet is purchased. Just need to drill a few more holes, paint it, carpet the deck, mount the slide lock and I'll be ready to rock.

later,
mike
 

taugust

Adventurer
X3 on the Hellroaring system. That site has a lot of good info on the different decisions you need to make. I chose to go with the aux battery as a backup only as recommended on the Hellroaring site. That way I always have the best battery in reserve. It looks like you have already chosen your backup battery, but consider using two matched Odyssey PC1200's. I was able to fit two in the stock location on my Tacoma with very little modification to the surrounding equipment They are much smaller than the Optimas and are more efficient with space (less wasted space around them). When you find the solution that is "right", the project will get back on track.

Good luck!
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Hello Mike.
I have an FJ Cruiser, not a Jeep, but I have installed a dual battery system in it for my ARB fridge.

I read online and also from Painless Wiring who makes the solenoid kit I bought to not hook up anything to the aux. battery.
It is used in my case primarily to start the vehicle in case I ever drain the main factory battery.

Here is a link to my original build thread over on YotaTech.
http://www.yotatech.com/50633260-post182.html
In the thread are links to the Painless dual battery kit.

You mentioned a fusebox, and I run the Bluesea one hooked to the main battery, and installed in the passenger footwell behind the plastic there.
http://www.yotatech.com/50513787-post131.html

Here is your solution to get the lid on the ARB/Engel 45 qt models to open up all the way.
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=276899&postcount=9
 

Signcutter21

Adventurer
cool thanks for the info. I'll make sure to check it out. I am starting to think i need to move forward on the project again. For a week or so I ran the fridge on the fridge settings (1-2). I'd leave it off for 8-12 hrs with no problems the next time starting the Optima red top right back up. One night turned it up to the freezer setting and let it go for almost a full day. It totally killed the battery dead, D-E-AD. Took about 10 minutes to get it charged enough to start. Unplugged the fridge and haven't had any problems.

thanks again,
mike
 

khaywood

New member
Signcutter21 said:
On the NL split charge kit, it comes with “everything”, however if I need to run the aux battery to the back, will I need to get heavier cables? Would I be able to just run the solenoid solo, or is the battery monitor necessary to control the solenoid?
The NL system does work without the controller. The controller provides voltage monitoring for each battery, alarms and the ability to remotely connect the two batteries (in lieu of waiting for the timer).

I doubt you would need additional or heavier cable. The kit is quite complete and with a generous length of cable.
 

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