Len.Barron
Observer
nice and clean...lots of life left there.
Sprinter 4WD Conversion Idea, GMT-800 IFS.
- Thread starter luthj
- Start date
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Agreed. Other than one strange piece of steel strip on the magnet (nothing like it anywhere inside), it was very fresh. There was some wear on the splines where the oil pump drive gear is. Honestly I think I will just do fresh seals and shift pads, and leave the bearings alone. The sprockets are so clean, I doubt it was ever put in 4wd!
A friend in Europe found the jeep intermediate shaft which connects the NAG1 to the regular NV 27 spline input gear. Assuming shipping is reasonable, I shouldn't need to swap the input gear. I do want to put the 6 planet gear set, just cause I can.
I will pull apart the spare 242D just to see, but I think the mainshaft inner needle bearing is toast.
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Len.Barron
Observer
The pumps usually have a very small thin spring sheet metal retainer...they break all the time. On the 261/263 cases the extra movement of the pump causes the dreaded "pump rub" failure where it actually rubs a small hole in the housing and the fluid leaks out. I don't think that happens on the 240 series. You may want to see if there is a retainer for the pump and get a new one.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
I dropped the subframe and skid plates to get measurements. My initial guesses on bolt holes and wheel position were around 1.5" off, The engine mounts were shockingly accurate. But they need to move forward with the bolt holes.
One bolt does interfere with the subframe rib. Not a big deal.
If I go with something like the 1500 UCAs (ford f150 look like an option), I will need to move the rear mount, and the front mount needs to come back 5". That should work fine, nothing to interfere with. I will need to use a 1/2" spacer on the front LCA bushing, as otherwise it would interfere with the engine mount.
IMG_20190615_125845582 by J Luth, on Flickr
IMG_20190615_111039817 by J Luth, on Flickr
IMG_20190615_104323019 by J Luth, on Flickr
One bolt does interfere with the subframe rib. Not a big deal.
If I go with something like the 1500 UCAs (ford f150 look like an option), I will need to move the rear mount, and the front mount needs to come back 5". That should work fine, nothing to interfere with. I will need to use a 1/2" spacer on the front LCA bushing, as otherwise it would interfere with the engine mount.
IMG_20190615_125845582 by J Luth, on Flickr
IMG_20190615_111039817 by J Luth, on Flickr
IMG_20190615_104323019 by J Luth, on Flickr
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Looks like everything fits. The frame rail is going to need some clearance holes cut for the back of the bushings. An adjustable offset BJ control arm may do the trick. Moog has them for 100$ or so. The 1500 BJ has a lot more articulation than the 2500 version. If the CVs tolerate it, up to 9-9.5".
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Reading around on the chevy truck forums, it looks like 16" wheels need a max of 4-5/8" backspacing to clear the control arms. So, looking at GM truck wheels, the 16x6.5 steels used on GMT800 2500s are 28mm ET, thats a backspacing of 4-3/8". Not idea, but pretty close. My model indicates that a 16x6.5 would just barely squeak by at ET 44mm. A 17" wheel would be fine at 5" backspacing.
I think I will grab a couple salvaged 2500 wheels for measurement.
Now the real question, what style to pick!? Gm factory wheels are not terribly attractive. But I guess a coat of black paint cures many ills.
I think I will grab a couple salvaged 2500 wheels for measurement.
Now the real question, what style to pick!? Gm factory wheels are not terribly attractive. But I guess a coat of black paint cures many ills.
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luthj
Engineer In Residence
Are those the 17x8 gmt900 alloys?If you can fit these, they are excellent wheels.
Len.Barron
Observer
ram 2500 wheels with a 1" spacer are an option as well
They have 6.5" wide also.
Len.Barron
Observer
gm wheels pictured above are "PYO"s and come in 16"x6.5" with 4 7/8" backspacing only I believe.
Len.Barron
Observer
If you can find a used set of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ford-F...618456?hash=item364e672c98:g:~MUAAOSwLBlc8VWO
(early f250/f350s had them) they would be a great look and fit for you. They are 16x7 with 4.3" BS....they are pretty desirable for the old ford truck gang so not as easy to find as they used to be..
(early f250/f350s had them) they would be a great look and fit for you. They are 16x7 with 4.3" BS....they are pretty desirable for the old ford truck gang so not as easy to find as they used to be..
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Those are pretty good looking.
A friend was looking around a junkyard, and thought the 1999 F150/250 2WD UCA looked pretty close. Some googling makes me think The GM BJ could be made to fit pretty easily. As a plus, the arms are currently 4$ on Rockauto closeout! I think I need to order one to measure. There is some chance of wheel interference, but worth a check possibly
Buddha.
Finally in expo white.
Those are pre 2011 16”.
I know I mentioned it before but it’s worth repeating, 2011+ eight lug trucks are 17” minimum and are a metric lug pattern.
Your pre 2011 uses the old pattern and is the same pattern as eight lug dodge, and I think pre super duty ford.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
I appreciate the reminder. Wheel specs are notoriously thin on the web. Heck, most vendors can't even tell me what the ET is on factory wheels!