Sprinter 4WD Conversion Idea, GMT-800 IFS.
- Thread starter luthj
- Start date
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I’ve run a hose from my rear axle housing into the passenger compartment of my Fj40. At first I did smell a bit of gear lube. After putting makings a crude filter in the end of the hose the smell soon went away. 20 years later I’ve never had any problems with it.
To do it over, I’d run it up to the front and T it into the front axle vent that runs to the top of the firewall. I’d then use a small fuel filter to keep debris, bugs, etc out of the end of the line.
To do it over, I’d run it up to the front and T it into the front axle vent that runs to the top of the firewall. I’d then use a small fuel filter to keep debris, bugs, etc out of the end of the line.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
I finally found the source of the vibration. The rear driveshaft had 1/32 runout at the pinion end. Turns out the pinion nut was half a turn loose. ? No idea how it happened. I torqued down to set the preload, everything was tight, and backlash was good. I am hoping the pinion splines aren't toast! I didn't drive it a whole lot...
I tightened it up, but a check of the diff lube showed lots of wear metal. This was clean less than 200 miles ago.
I am not getting any gear whine, and the gears still look okay. I have a new set of bearings on order. My best guess in the pinion bearings are damaged. I would guess there is 2-3 grams of metal in the oil, so I may be replacing the diff bearings too. I am not looking forward to doing this again!
I tightened it up, but a check of the diff lube showed lots of wear metal. This was clean less than 200 miles ago.
I am not getting any gear whine, and the gears still look okay. I have a new set of bearings on order. My best guess in the pinion bearings are damaged. I would guess there is 2-3 grams of metal in the oil, so I may be replacing the diff bearings too. I am not looking forward to doing this again!
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Agreed. Its not quite a perfect storm, but there would have been better times. The wife was rear ended at a stop sign, so the cars in the shop for a body repair quote for a day or two. My lease is up in 3 weeks, and I expect to be moving cross country (unless a job descends from the heavens). At least the auto parts store is only a 20 minute bike ride, or a 5 minute uber.
After tightening the nut nut and changing the lube, I could probably drive 100k miles before something failed, but by then I would have forgotten everything!
luthj
Engineer In Residence
The gears were used, bearings and diff were new. The oil was pretty contaminated, not quite quicksilver though. If the bearings are good I will put it back together, but I doubt it. Especially with there being no preload for a while.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
The service manual didn't mention it, but I could have missed it. Its a self locking nut, and I used a new one. My best guess is I accidentally used the old crush sleeve. I will dig through my parts bin later to see.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Nobody makes one for this axle, at least that I could find. I also don't have access to a machine shop currently.
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luthj
Engineer In Residence
Yeah, I am going to loctite the nut this time...
In other news I have no additional issues to report. Well I still have a bit of a clunk during when braking and turning left. Looks like there is a casting nub on the LCA casing thats hitting the subframe a bit. Might get to that eventually...
I got a boot on the "temp" front driveshaft. So its sealed for now. I need to service the UJs with fresh grease, but I think I will run it for a while. If/when I mange to break it, I can upgrade to something beefier.
The Torque converter resonance/drone is actually getting slightly better, maybe its breaking in? It would be fantastic if I don't need to drop the trans. Like ever.
Unrelated, anyone got a good brush on undercoating recommendation?
In other news I have no additional issues to report. Well I still have a bit of a clunk during when braking and turning left. Looks like there is a casting nub on the LCA casing thats hitting the subframe a bit. Might get to that eventually...
I got a boot on the "temp" front driveshaft. So its sealed for now. I need to service the UJs with fresh grease, but I think I will run it for a while. If/when I mange to break it, I can upgrade to something beefier.
The Torque converter resonance/drone is actually getting slightly better, maybe its breaking in? It would be fantastic if I don't need to drop the trans. Like ever.
Unrelated, anyone got a good brush on undercoating recommendation?
shade
Well-known member
I prefer the oil-based rust inhibitors, like Fluid Film, but they do require periodic re-application, usually annually.