"Squatchpod" -squaredrop camper build

Wm Hill

Member
This is my first foray into a camper build. I've "borrowed" a bunch of ideas from the folks here and have just gotten started. My frame was from an old Palaminio pop-up camper. The cabin plan is 55" wide, 48" height, and 9' long ( 7' inside, 2' of galley). The extra foot more than the frame will be a cantilever kind of deal. This should track nicely behind my car and fit into a tent-sized campsite. I want something self-contained with very little setup for quick overnight kayak & hike trips. I've lost all interest in tents.
It started out too short and too wide. I want everything to be inside the wheels, so the frame was trimmed of everything past the main frame rails. This leaves me with a body width of 55". The frame was only 77" long and it's now stretched to 8'. To keep it balanced, the axle was moved back 10", and also raise 4" for a little extra body clearance. It's going to be a work in progress, but I wanted to start the build thread before I got in too deep. Wish me luck!

stock stripped camper frame

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after the frame mods

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Axle setback and lift

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Slimmed frame

342860474_906466877125944_8118221368961277778_n.jpg


Who wants a camper with no name?

SQUATCHPOD 1.png
 

Wm Hill

Member
The floor is on (5/8OSB ) and fastened with self-tapping wood-to-metal screws. I did a mock-up on one side to get the door placement right. It turns out that sleeping with our heads to the back makes exit/entry much easier. I picked up the fasteners and framing lumber, now it's time to plane and size the lumber.

side mock-up
342997905_1035883130726155_1351819944789135322_n.jpg

the upright OSB is where the wall between the galley (2') and the berth (7') will be.

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Teardropper

Well-known member
I did a mock-up on one side to get the door placement right. It turns out that sleeping with our heads to the back makes exit/entry much easier

Go lay down on your bed. Now sit up and rotate to the edge as if you will get up, but pause. That's the same spot you sat down to get on the bed. That's where the doors need to be. Right where your hip is when prone, it makes for an easy entry/exit. It's one of many reasons teardrops have stood the test of eighty years.

Me? I'd stay as far away from OSB as I could get. When water finds a way to get in (and it will) it'll swell and never recover.

Tony
 

Wm Hill

Member
Go lay down on your bed. Now sit up and rotate to the edge as if you will get up, but pause. That's the same spot you sat down to get on the bed. That's where the doors need to be. Right where your hip is when prone, it makes for an easy entry/exit. It's one of many reasons teardrops have stood the test of eighty years.

Me? I'd stay as far away from OSB as I could get. When water finds a way to get in (and it will) it'll swell and never recover.

Tony
That's pretty much how the door placement ended up. As for the OSB, It is only used for the floor and the edges will be covered. I'm rolling the dice.
 

Wm Hill

Member
The walls are sided- I used 8" tongue & groove pine and a million screws. Windows are just sitting in there for fit. I'll mount them permanently once the exterior painting is done. I started work on the galley. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get onto the galley door and countertop. After that, it's onto finishing the interior with mineral oil. (if anyone knows how to tint/darken mineral oil, I'd appreciate any tips).

starting to look like something

343713153_606108851463323_6269475073176875289_n.jpg


Galley area

343292854_196101446594434_6034988552371992608_n.jpg343292854_196101446594434_6034988552371992608_n.jpg

Bulkhead between the berth and the galley

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Wm Hill

Member
why do you want to use mineral oil? Could you not use a oil based wood stain?

My issue with commercial stains is the smell. Some of those take months for the scent to relax. I don't want to sleep in something with all those fumes. I really like Minwax products, but they stink for a long time in something enclosed.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
Have you considered linseed oil? It is edible so I assume it wouldn't have a bad smell. I know that many people use it on their homes.
 

Wm Hill

Member
Have you considered linseed oil? It is edible so I assume it wouldn't have a bad smell. I know that many people use it on their homes.
I haven't used linseed oil before. I understand it's harder to work with than mineral oil.
 

Teardropper

Well-known member
If you get some leakage with that valve, spend $15 on a brass hose bib. The threads should be the same.

gCQpj8j.jpg


Tony
 

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