Step 1- help me start planning a DIY trailer for my JKU

[zimm17]

I have a few threads on here already about other trailer ideas, but I had an epiphany here at work and I'm going to build my own trailer gosh darn it! I took an into to welding course last weekend, I already have a Miller 110v Mig welder, and in class I learned my welds are stronger than the 3/16" steel plate we tested (They crushed my T-welded plate flat in a 20 ton press and it held). Now I have the confidence I need to weld it up. Now I need a chop saw, some tubing, and more importantly.... a plan.

Axle: I'd like to run the same track width as my Wrangler JKU with AEV wheels. I have a spare set of stock Rubicon wheels that I can utilize. I'm guessing I'll want to order up a 3500# dexter axle with E-brakes. I already have a brake controller and 7 pin wired up in the Jeep. Shocks?

I'll need it to ride at the right height for my JKU which has a 3" lift and 35's.

Size: Not sure- I'd like to eventually do a RTT. But for now a cargo box, tail gate, hinged lid, and some side doors for an ARB fridge, Electric (battery, inverter, solar panel), and outdoor kitchen that will I can use with a coleman stove. 4x6 seems to be the standard size.

What are some good plans? I can visualize making the chassis, frame, suspension, etc. No idea how to make the doors, seal them, hinges, latches, lid etc.

Where do I start besides a few weeks of reading old threads on here?

What have you guys done, and more importantly, what would you do differently in the future?

 

[PhulesAU]

TT&T website. Your mind will over load.

 

[tarditi]

Sounds like a good plan.

I have an M100, but if I were to go any bigger/heavier, I would prefer timbren axles for clearance... in the big picture, it's not that much more expensive and you get a really rubust high-clearance solution.

Personally, I'm OK with the military lunette hitch, but a multi-axis coupler would be pretty sweet.

I only wired mine with 4-pin, but 7-pin to run a separate power setup would be pretty nice.

3 words: Built-in-kitchen

 

[M35A2]

Pesonally, I would design the trailer such that it was still usable for *whatever*. Plan your add-ons to be modular and attachable/stowable.

For an axle I would look into those little torsion suspension thingys (I forget the name) that attach to the frame. Adjustable height and no axle running side to side.

I would look to the hot rod marketplace for small shocks, and the spindles and hubs might have brakes.

I would use a pintle/lunette because easy, foolproof and relatively theft resistant without some bespoke hardware that could be difficult to repair or replace in the boonies.

I might not run 35" tires on the trailer because too much. A small trailer does not need to be overwhelmed with tires. Jeep 15" rims with 31" tires would suffice and still look plenty stout.

I would incorporate several additional 2" and possibly 1" receivers (2" out back and sideways 1" or 2" on the sides, facing sideways, fore and aft).

I would build flat fenders that match the shape of those on an M416 but were wide enough to cover the tires.

That's off the top of my head. I don't know your preferences or use case, so take these ideas with a grain of salt.

 

[zimm17]

Great ideas, keep them coming. I do like the Timbren axles- nothing in the middle to get hung up. I'll either do the lunette or a 2" ball hitch. If I figure out a bolt on option, I could switch between the two based off a street trip of if I want to drag it on a trail.

I'll have to figure out if I can get a 5x5 bolt pattern with brakes on the timbren axles.

I won't run 35's. I have a set of stock 2012 rubi wheels/tires. Those are 32's and narrow (255's?). I've read I might need a spacer for them to work.

Frame- I'm thinking 2x3 rectangle tube. Not sure of the thickness. I looked at Ruger trailers- they run:
Tongue 3 X 2 X 1/4" steel tube
Frame 3 X 2 X 14ga steel tube
Cross Members 3 X 2 X 14ga steel tube

I could try and build a box- but I don't have a sheet metal brake, I'd have to have the pieces formed. Lots of thinking this build will take.

 

[AnchorMTN]

Yes, you can get 5x5" bolt pattern hubs with any 3500lbs compatible Timbren, solid axle, or torsion axle. I believe Dexter is the only brand to offer an E-brake option with their backing plates and they are not cheap.... wheel choks are and wont fail.

For a light trailer 3" x 2" box tubing with 1/8"(0.120") wall thickness will be fine.

Make the hitch removable so you can swap in any hitch you want...2" ball, lunette, Max coupler, etc.

Your factory JK axles are 65.5" wide Wheel mount to wheel mount(wms-wms). I would recommend you get your trailer axle made to be 65" wide. This will clear a 48" wide frame with most JK tire/wheel options.

If you done have anyway to break steel to make a box, just frame it out with 2x2 or 1x1 box and skin it with sheet steel.

 

[brandon1]

What is TT&T website?

 

[Lord Al Sorna]

I have a few threads on here already about other trailer ideas, but I had an epiphany here at work and I'm going to build my own trailer gosh darn it! I took an into to welding course last weekend, I already have a Miller 110v Mig welder, and in class I learned my welds are stronger than the 3/16" steel plate we tested (They crushed my T-welded plate flat in a 20 ton press and it held). Now I have the confidence I need to weld it up. Now I need a chop saw, some tubing, and more importantly.... a plan.

Axle: I'd like to run the same track width as my Wrangler JKU with AEV wheels. I have a spare set of stock Rubicon wheels that I can utilize. I'm guessing I'll want to order up a 3500# dexter axle with E-brakes. I already have a brake controller and 7 pin wired up in the Jeep. Shocks?

I'll need it to ride at the right height for my JKU which has a 3" lift and 35's.

Size: Not sure- I'd like to eventually do a RTT. But for now a cargo box, tail gate, hinged lid, and some side doors for an ARB fridge, Electric (battery, inverter, solar panel), and outdoor kitchen that will I can use with a coleman stove. 4x6 seems to be the standard size.

What are some good plans? I can visualize making the chassis, frame, suspension, etc. No idea how to make the doors, seal them, hinges, latches, lid etc.

Where do I start besides a few weeks of reading old threads on here?

What have you guys done, and more importantly, what would you do differently in the future?

Like where your head is at on this. I built a trailer similar to what you want last year and can share my 2c...

Shocks: Used a set of RV shocks off of amazon...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JWM9EE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Welded on studs that came with the shocks up top, and just all-thread to the axle on the bottom in this config / \ Worked great!

Hardware / Construction:
Its pretty easy to weld a frame out of 1x1 sq tube and skin it with sheet steel. When I built my last trailer I started with the frame, then welded 1x1 uprights on three sides, capped them with 1x2 and skinned it. I then sealed it from the inside on all seams with polyurethane roofing caulk, and it was super tight. I built a lid in this manner (1x1 skeleton with skin) and used weld-on hinges with gas lift struts for the top. On the back I built a side-swing door with common trailer hinges.

These are the latches I used on the the lid, which worked wonderfully:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NC612?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01

 

[lacofdfireman]

Great start with a lot of great info.. I'm about to take on the same type of build. A 4x6 trailer capable of holding a RTT on the lid. I like some of the ideas being thrown around here. Have you figured out the Jeep JK Wheel issue with the axles? I also have some Jeep JK Rubicon Hard Rocks I want to put onto a trailer but here the center hole may be to small so hoping others who have done this will tell us the best way to work around this issue.. I'll be following your build..

 

[highlandercj-7]

Your on the right track. 5 on 5" was a very popular trailer bolt pattern in the day and it's still available. You will need at least a 2" spacer to make the JK wheels fit. I am going to run a adapter on my 5 on 4.5" axle to convert to 5 on 5" and run stock JK wheels on my next yak trailer. For the frame I ran 2"x3" 3/16" wall on my last trailer and it worker great.

 

[lacofdfireman]

Your on the right track. 5 on 5" was a very popular trailer bolt pattern in the day and it's still available. You will need at least a 2" spacer to make the JK wheels fit. I am going to run a adapter on my 5 on 4.5" axle to convert to 5 on 5" and run stock JK wheels on my next yak trailer. For the frame I ran 2"x3" 3/16" wall on my last trailer and it worker great.

Looking for spacers now. But my problem is the same as yours. My JK Rubicon Hard Rock wheels center hole is to small for the axle so I need spacers. I hear that you need 1.75-2" spacers to make it so you don't hit your axle cap. The only issue with this is if you buy a spacers isn't the hole in it also going to be to small just like the JK's? Where are you buying your spacers from withe the 5 on 5 and a larger hole the axle can fit through?

 

[Rod_SATX]

Looking for spacers now. But my problem is the same as yours. My JK Rubicon Hard Rock wheels center hole is to small for the axle so I need spacers. I hear that you need 1.75-2" spacers to make it so you don't hit your axle cap. The only issue with this is if you buy a spacers isn't the hole in it also going to be to small just like the JK's? Where are you buying your spacers from withe the 5 on 5 and a larger hole the axle can fit through?

For weeks I had this same question and finally came across the solution last night! From what I read, this is what we need, 1.80 thickness.

http://adaptitusa.com/5-x-5.00-to-5-x-500-wheel-adapter.aspx

 

[lacofdfireman]

For weeks I had this same question and finally came across the solution last night! From what I read, this is what we need, 1.80 thickness.

http://adaptitusa.com/5-x-5.00-to-5-x-500-wheel-adapter.aspx

Yes this is what we need but my question is still this. If you buy a wheel adapter for a Jeep isn't the adapter still going to have the same center hole size as the jeeps wheels? The whole reason for the adapter is to be able to have the axle fit through the center hole but we are ordering a jeep wheel adapter which leads me to believe the adapter will have the same hole size center hole. Or am I wrong?

 

[Rod_SATX]

Does this thread answer your question?

http://www.jk-forum.com/forums/camping-hiking-99/trailer-hubs-work-stock-jk-wheels-183674/

 

[HAFICON]

Nice.. I am about to try and finish my trailer build..(I Hope)

You can download Sketchup for free. It is a 3D drawing program. You can learn how to use it in YouTube, makes working/planing very easy and mistakes won't cost you time or money. I fully drew my trailer form start to finish in it.