Still New To Me Gen 3 Won't Start

[2to4wheels]

Thanks for everyone's input. I am going to mess around a bit today and see what I can eliminate.

Just for my own sanity, the check engine light is not on which means there have been no faulty codes thrown right? Does this eliminate anything off the bat or could there be bad sensors without throwing a code?

 

[PacS14]

Think of whatever was the last thing you did to the engine prior to symptoms and start there. Check all the main fuses, plugs, etc, then check for spark, fuel, and air obviously, vacuum leaks, etc. Make sure you hear the pump running, I could be a failing pump.

 

[2to4wheels]

Think of whatever was the last thing you did to the engine prior to symptoms and start there. Check all the main fuses, plugs, etc, then check for spark, fuel, and air obviously, vacuum leaks, etc. Make sure you hear the pump running, I could be a failing pump.

I've only had it for 2 months and the only thing I've done is change the timing belt and associated parts...nothing else yet. It's run great up to this point. Anyway, I'll you posted.

 

[2to4wheels]

Anyone know what this noise is? Never noticed this before. This is after trying to start it again after fiddling with things (not near this noise) and this noise continues until I turn the key off.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cnpDdG15M2pwLW9UV3NnUWRPX1o3WmMxbTJKM1NR

I'm kind out my league here but really don't want to shell out a bunch of money.

 

[normal_dave]

Sounds like a TPS, throttle position sensor, click the video in this link for an Endeavor with a similar sound (not a similar troubleshoot issue however).
http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/14-endeavor-forum/56235-tps-buzzing-sound.html

Author was looking for a smoke/burning smell issue in this post, but his vid indicated TPS buzz, and a reset (Battery disconnect overnight) seemed to clear it.

 

[2to4wheels]

So the journey continues. Since I'm not an experienced mechanic, I figured I'd check the things that I can starting with listening for the fuel pump to prime. I had my wife turn the key to the on position a few times with me listening over top the rear seat, outside underneath and the through the open cap and I don't hear anything going on. The only thing I hear is some stuff going on in the engine compartment but nothing in the rear of the truck. Admittedly, I'm not sure how loud it's supposed to be so maybe I am missing it. I've checked the fuses and they look good. I guess I could check the relay but not sure how to do that.

That said, how do I begin to test all of the fuel components. Is their a Shrader Valve to put a gauge on? I didn't see one.

This leads me to another issue I would if in fact it is the fuel pump. My passenger side seat folds down but does not flip up which means it's probably a cable issue. So now I need to research that because I'm sure if I could access the pump closer, I could tell for sure whether or not it's priming.

The joys of a new 10 year old car. I'm a bit discouraged at this point because up until now, I love everything about this car.

 

[2to4wheels]

And again, a quick update. Sorry for the real time!

So I did get the passenger seat tilted up and pulled off the fuel pump access panel. Had my wife turn the key to the on position and nothing. No humming/buzzing noise. When listening really closely, I did hear a very faint "tapping" noise.

So know what? How do I test the pump and/or relay. Thanks so much for everyone's help. I'd be lost without you.

Also, where is the relay?

 

[EyeInTheSky]

And again, a quick update. Sorry for the real time!

So I did get the passenger seat tilted up and pulled off the fuel pump access panel. Had my wife turn the key to the on position and nothing. No humming/buzzing noise. When listening really closely, I did hear a very faint "tapping" noise.

So know what? How do I test the pump and/or relay. Thanks so much for everyone's help. I'd be lost without you.

Did you download the FSM? If you go to the index, search for fuel pump, and follow the testing steps. It's probably safe to assume that you don't have their special scan tool, so you can do it manually by connecting the relay directly to the battery as stated in the FSM. Instructions are in 13Aa-16.

Here's hoping it's not the fuel pump. My dealer wants $370 for the unit. I just pulled mine out and knocked some crud out/cleaned it. Not too bad of a job, especially with an electric impact and a right angle drive attachment, but pretty pricey.

 

[nckwltn]

Sounds similar to issues with my 03. You can replace just the fuel pump from the larger housing. Around 100 from AutoZone.

 

[plh]

Sounds like a similar issue that came and went with my '05 last year. Symptoms of being flooded. I pulled the fuel pump fuse (in the engine compartment fuse box) and cranked the engine until it started. Obviously engine only ran for a brief few moments. Replaced the fuse and started normally again for at least the last year. Might or might not be your issue. Mine never came back, no codes were thrown and I didn't look into it further. I did spray out my MAF with CRC several months later, maybe that was it. Not really sure thou.

 

[2to4wheels]

Sooo...not sold on it being the fuel pump. Listened again and I hear a short cycle, though faint.

I tried starting it up today and it started, ran pretty good for a half of minute, then move it a bit in the driveway and stalled out. Then wouldn't start again.

I guess the good news is that is started and seemed to run smooth for a short time which makes me feel better about the timing still being correct.

The sensor on the Throttle body (IAC?) buzzes like a mother and then when I unplug and plug it back in, it goes away. This is while the key is in the on position after cranking the engine. What is that sensor?

 

[offthepath]

Thats good it started. After reading the thread I was pretty sure it had something to do with the recent timing belt work, but it running seems to point to another issue (maybe...).

Hate to say it as I DIY everything, but you may be to a point it would be money and time well spent to take it to a GOOD dealer or mechanic. There are dozens of things it could be and the problem with modern engines for shade tree mechanics is when an obscure sensor ****s out, its tough to find. May be worth it to avoid the headache alone.

Sorry to hear the troubles after finding a montero.

 

[Outdooraholic]

Sooo...not sold on it being the fuel pump. Listened again and I hear a short cycle, though faint.

I tried starting it up today and it started, ran pretty good for a half of minute, then move it a bit in the driveway and stalled out. Then wouldn't start again.

I guess the good news is that is started and seemed to run smooth for a short time which makes me feel better about the timing still being correct.

The sensor on the Throttle body (IAC?) buzzes like a mother and then when I unplug and plug it back in, it goes away. This is while the key is in the on position after cranking the engine. What is that sensor?

The ISC is a stepper motor mounted on the throttle body that controls the amount of air which bypasses the throttle plate when the engine idling. When the key is turned on it should step out and back in. That is normal. You can unbolt it and have someone turn the key to the on position and watch for it to step out and back in if it is working correctly. If it is bad it will just twitch or won't move at all.

Some Mitsubishis don't engage the fuel pump until the engine is cranking. I'm not sure if the Montero is setup like that. Either way you can attach a fuel pressure gauge to the system and start cranking it to know for sure if the fuel system is the culprit or not.

 

[nckwltn]

When it won't start. Take a rubber mallet and ********** the underside of the fuel tank.... If it starts right back up, probably your fuel pump.

That's what the AAA guy did and it was enough to get me home from the home depot parking lot.

 

[2to4wheels]

Thats good it started. After reading the thread I was pretty sure it had something to do with the recent timing belt work, but it running seems to point to another issue (maybe...).

Hate to say it as I DIY everything, but you may be to a point it would be money and time well spent to take it to a GOOD dealer or mechanic. There are dozens of things it could be and the problem with modern engines for shade tree mechanics is when an obscure sensor ****s out, its tough to find. May be worth it to avoid the headache alone.

Sorry to hear the troubles after finding a montero.

Yeah, I'm kind of starting to think that way. Would love to figure it out myself, but honestly, don't really have the time or the expertise. Bummer is I would need to get it towed and living in DC, towing and shop labor rates are what I was trying to avoid. The good thing is there is actually an independent shop less than a mile from my house that specializes in Asian cars and the owner has 2 Gen 3s himself. He bought a parts car and fixed up his other one so he is very familiar with my car which is a plus.