Stolenheron's 04 D2 thread
- Thread starter stolenheron
- Start date
FortyMileDesert
Adventurer
Well, after reading all the way through this thread; I've decided that most of the contributors are all about bling......
My truck is a veteran of over 150 off-road treks and didn't need 90% of the stuff that is already on the truck that is the subject of the thread....
The '04 Disco has a vastly improved traction control system compared to the earlier '00, '01, '02 systems. Land Rover even put a center diff lock into the thing which I find I only need to engage when in extreme situations. You do not need any kind of axle lockers - - -
I've lifted mine a bit over 2" and upgraded to 265/75-16 Toyo Open Countrys - They do the job very very well (not much for bad mud, but don't get much of that in Nevada). With the "2 inches there is no need for any other kinds of suspension mods - OH; Get the front propshaft rebuilt with greaseable u-joints!
A couple of minimal home-built rock sliders and a skid under the steering and the gas tank and you are set.....
The alloy wheels are a bit scraped, but not bent, cracked or leaking - - They're pretty tough.
If you are a descent, experienced off-roader, you will need nothing else. In fact it's a damned capable truck totally stock!
My truck is a veteran of over 150 off-road treks and didn't need 90% of the stuff that is already on the truck that is the subject of the thread....
The '04 Disco has a vastly improved traction control system compared to the earlier '00, '01, '02 systems. Land Rover even put a center diff lock into the thing which I find I only need to engage when in extreme situations. You do not need any kind of axle lockers - - -
I've lifted mine a bit over 2" and upgraded to 265/75-16 Toyo Open Countrys - They do the job very very well (not much for bad mud, but don't get much of that in Nevada). With the "2 inches there is no need for any other kinds of suspension mods - OH; Get the front propshaft rebuilt with greaseable u-joints!
A couple of minimal home-built rock sliders and a skid under the steering and the gas tank and you are set.....
The alloy wheels are a bit scraped, but not bent, cracked or leaking - - They're pretty tough.
If you are a descent, experienced off-roader, you will need nothing else. In fact it's a damned capable truck totally stock!
stolenheron
Explorer
there is already a Tom Woods Driveshaft installed.
thanks for your input
thanks for your input
SeaRubi
Explorer
don't know the size, but they look dinky compared to the vintage coiler stuff.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
M14 is close to 5/8". How big were the old studs?!
come on man your a engineer wheres you math skills?
14mm= almost exactly 9/16 .5625"for 9/16 .5512 for 14mm
16mm= almost exactly 5/8 .625 for 5/8" .6299 for 16mm
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R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I didn't do the math. I stated "close to". Who the **** cares.
stolenheron
Explorer
I am planning on redoing my storage setup. I had originally made 2 cargo boxes with top opening hatches made from MDF wrapped in canvas/carpet. after a full year of running them, it's time to rethink the design and scrap nearly all of it. the MDF was a stupid idea and not having a front opening or hatch was also dumb. I also made 2 boxes in the hopes that It would make it easier to remove in the chance that i need to use my jumpseats, which i still do from time to time. However, each box was extremely heavy empty and unbearable when full of tools and gear.
so here is my old/current setup:
here is the new sketch:
-will be made from marine grade ply
-painted then carpeted or bed liner rolled on
-top opening hatch and open face front
-plan on using cargo nets to secure gear at the open face.
-will use tie downs to secure it to the vehicle
-will add tie down points on top of the box to help secure gear above the storage unit rather than using cargo nets like i had previously.
-dimensions on width will be the same, height might*** be lowered by an inch at most, the current setup allows a flat surface when the 2nd row seating is laid flat.
MY QUESTION:
-What thickness ply should I use? 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4"?
I had used 3/4 MDF before...
so here is my old/current setup:
here is the new sketch:
-will be made from marine grade ply
-painted then carpeted or bed liner rolled on
-top opening hatch and open face front
-plan on using cargo nets to secure gear at the open face.
-will use tie downs to secure it to the vehicle
-will add tie down points on top of the box to help secure gear above the storage unit rather than using cargo nets like i had previously.
-dimensions on width will be the same, height might*** be lowered by an inch at most, the current setup allows a flat surface when the 2nd row seating is laid flat.
MY QUESTION:
-What thickness ply should I use? 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4"?
I had used 3/4 MDF before...
stolenheron
Explorer
i dont wanna use just pelican cases man. my dog rides back there alot, she can't stand on pelican cases. groceries can't go on top of them. and they aren't cheap. not going a pure pelican case route for sure.
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stolenheron
Explorer
would anyone care to help me choose a thickness of marine grade ply for my new storage setup?
1/2", 5/8", or 3/4"
1/2", 5/8", or 3/4"
Jonathan Hanson
Well-known member
Sure - if you use the good Baltic birch stuff (which isn't actually "marine" ply), there's no reason to go over 5/8".
I built a load deck in my FJ40 from 3/4-inch birch plywood that went from wheel well to wheel well. I intended to put a center support under it, but there is so little deflection I never bothered.
Now - back to normal ExPo Land Rover thread meltdown.
I built a load deck in my FJ40 from 3/4-inch birch plywood that went from wheel well to wheel well. I intended to put a center support under it, but there is so little deflection I never bothered.
Now - back to normal ExPo Land Rover thread meltdown.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
A sheet of 1/2" plywood weighs roughly 50lbs. 3/4" is about 75lbs. I'm guessing your project will use less than a full sheet. So, by using 1/2" instead of 3/4", you might save... 15-25lbs. Hardly worth worrying about.
Conversely, the 3/4" will be stronger, and particularly since you are intending on having tie-downs mounted on top to secure a load, not to mention possibly having a heavy tool bag stored inside the box which needs to be secured during a 30g crash... I'd just go with the 3/4". That's my opinion.
The 15-25lbs extra weight can easily be saved by packing less sushi and imported beer.
Conversely, the 3/4" will be stronger, and particularly since you are intending on having tie-downs mounted on top to secure a load, not to mention possibly having a heavy tool bag stored inside the box which needs to be secured during a 30g crash... I'd just go with the 3/4". That's my opinion.
The 15-25lbs extra weight can easily be saved by packing less sushi and imported beer.
why not take a step back from the ply wood and particle board and use materials that wont absorb water.
you are in a 100% humidity environment most the time in florida so I would go a different way then the guys in the dry southwest.
I would use UHMWPE and assemble it with screws that were countersunk so there is nothing to snag. I would then screw a piece of the kennel flooring on top so that when your dog is sitting on it the dirt would fall down through and be recessed away from the dog but yet would be easy to vacuum up. Plus the texture would give the dog some grip so it would travel more comfortable on the trail.
Although many people are affraid of working witH PE as a material it is actually real easy to use once you get your head around the fact that you can only use mechanical fasteners. Adhesives just wont work. I do have some adhesive that is used for putting it on the bottom of boats but that would be expensive and a hassle top work with.