Suburban tire dilemma...

[Martinjmpr]

I have a bit of a dilemma and thought I'd post here to bounce ideas off of others.

First, the background:

I have a 2004 Suburban that is (currently) my only 4 wheeled vehicle (just sold my little DD, shopping for another now but likely won't get one until next month.) Primary duty for the 'Burb is pulling our 2000lb T@B travel trailer on long Summer trips (over 13k since I bought 'Burb 9 months ago!)

I bought the 'Burb in December of last year and had moderately worn Kelly-Springfield tires - not very good at anything. But they held air and had tread so I figured that once I got through Winter they'd be OK for the Summer and then before the snow flies again I'd replace them. Current wheel size is 17" but they have some corrosion around the outside and I don't really like the "star" design anyway. Current tire size is stock: 265/70/17 (31.6".)

I decided that I wanted to do a mild lift (keys/z71 springs) and then put 33's on 16" wheels. I bought a set of LS 16" wheels off of CL for $140. My thought was that I would do things in this order:

1. Get the lift
2. Get new tires in 33" size (285/75/16.) Just the savings on getting 16" vs. 17" would pay for the wheels I bought off of CL and who knows, maybe someone will buy my 17" wheels once I no longer need them.

Well, that was "the plan." But we all know what happens to the Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men, eh? Coming back from a camping trip in August my 4l60E transmission decided to crap the bed. By the time all was said and done, I had shelled out $2k for a transmission rebuild. Not only did this put a big dent in my "Suburban money" it also took up the time I had been planning for getting the lift done. Now I didn't have time to get it lifted before we left on our next couple of trips so I'm still stuck with the stock suspension and the (rapidly wearing) crappy K-S tires.

(Incidentally I already have most of the lift parts I just need to take the time to get them installed.)

So with the first cool breezes of Autumn in the air, I find myself in a situation where I really need new tires, but I don't have the time or $$ to get the lift done.

Thus, my dilemma.

Seems to me I have several ways to go:

1. Do nothing and hope/pray the crap K-S tires will do "well enough" in the upcoming months until I can get back on track time- and financial-wise.

2. Get some "good enough" 17" tires on my current rims with the idea that it will get me through the beginning of Winter and then later on resume the original plan of a lift and 33" tires on 16" wheels, with the idea of selling my wheels with "good enough" tires to offset some of the additional costs that will be incurred.

3. Try to stuff 33's onto my Suburban without the lift, with the idea that I would lift it later.

4. Give up on the idea of 33's and just get a good tire (BFG AT KO or GY Duratrac) in stock size (either 265/70/17 on my stock wheels or 265/75/16 on my 16" wheels.)

As much as I'd like to try option 3 (go with 33's even though I don't have my lift) I really don't want to risk damaging a set of tires.

Option 2 seems like a big waste of money - I'd be buying a new set of tires, running them for a few months and then replacing them with another new set of tires after I got the lift. Even if I sell the "good enough" tires with wheels, I'm going to lose a LOT of $$ on that deal and that just offends the Scotsman in me.

For all these reasons I'm leaning towards Option 4 even though it means no 33's for me. It also means that after I eventually get my lift my truck may look a little dorky with small/skinny 31.6" tires and a lift.

Anyway, any input would be appreciated. :ylsmoke:

 

[ckupq]

What I'm seeing is Option 5 needs to be done: Do the list yourself. If you have basic tools and a floor jack you can rent the rest of the tools from Autozone or any other part house. Honestly if you can change a tire you can add the lift you want. Just depends on where you live and what you can do in your neighborhood.

That being said I put load range E 285/70/17s on my truck (sierra 1500) with a 3" lift and level, I'm wanting to go back because I don't feel it was worth it. Looking at stock pictures of your Sub it doesn't look like you'll be having much of a problem having 285's on it without a lift. Toss up a picture so we can give a better opinion.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

33s will probably fit with no lift. You can probably find a set of pretty good tires on CL for low $. When I needed a set of tires to keep my Z71 rolling until I could sell it, I grabbed four pretty fresh 33" Nitto Grapplers on CL for $300, plus about $48 for mount and balance. That was a couple of years ago, and that truck is still my daily driver because it finally decided to stop breaking stuff. No lift.

 

[p nut]

First, do your travels warrant 33" tires? I've got 33's on my truck, but if I could turn the clock back 6 months, I'd just go 32's. 33's are great, but they rob power and MPG. Especially when towing. I would just stick to 32's personally, and do it on the 17's. IF you decide to get a lift installed later on, and you feel 33's will be worth it, then keep the 16's and use it then. You can then just sell the 32's at that point.
_
This is the only viable option at this point, IMO. Plans 1 and 2 doesn't make sense. Plan 3 seems like too much of a gamble with not a lot of upsides to it.
_
IMO, 32's are plenty capable, especially for where full-sized trucks go, they're cheaper (in most cases) and won't affect MPG/HP that much.

 

[ExplorerTom]

(Incidentally I already have most of the lift parts I just need to take the time to get them installed.)

Were you planning on installing yourself or paying someone? I've never swapped torsion keys (only tightened them) but springs are relatively simple enough- except for the potential of rusty fasteners.

If you were thinking about paying someone, I could help you and save you that cost.

Otherwise I wouldn't risk going into the winter on the K-S tires unless you want to have that $2k transmission hang out at the body shop. I'd buy some used tires off CL to get you through- you could probably break even on the tires when you get your new ones.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Were you planning on installing yourself or paying someone? I've never swapped torsion keys (only tightened them) but springs are relatively simple enough- except for the potential of rusty fasteners.

If you were thinking about paying someone, I could help you and save you that cost.

Otherwise I wouldn't risk going into the winter on the K-S tires unless you want to have that $2k transmission hang out at the body shop. I'd buy some used tires off CL to get you through- you could probably break even on the tires when you get your new ones.

Thanks for the offer, I think my biggest problem there is I just don't have the time or the tools. Also my 'Burb spent it's first 8 winters in WI so it's got a fair amount of rust underneath. I don't think it's anything that any decent shop can't deal with but it's not something I want to deal with in my driveway, especially with the 'Burb being my only ride currently.

I hadn't thought about buying tires off of CL (which is funny because I've sold tires off of CL before...)

First, do your travels warrant 33" tires? I've got 33's on my truck, but if I could turn the clock back 6 months, I'd just go 32's. 33's are great, but they rob power and MPG. Especially when towing. I would just stick to 32's personally, and do it on the 17's. IF you decide to get a lift installed later on, and you feel 33's will be worth it, then keep the 16's and use it then. You can then just sell the 32's at that point.
_
This is the only viable option at this point, IMO. Plans 1 and 2 doesn't make sense. Plan 3 seems like too much of a gamble with not a lot of upsides to it.
_
IMO, 32's are plenty capable, especially for where full-sized trucks go, they're cheaper (in most cases) and won't affect MPG/HP that much.

I think you bring up a lot of good points - sometimes I think I just post things up here to get a "reality check." Certainly the simplest/easiest/cheapest way to go would be to stick with the 17's I have now and just throw another set of 32's on there - I'm not sure how much better performance I'd get from 33's vs. my current 32's (31.6 nominal diameter on 265/70/17.) The radius difference is only 3/4" but the width difference is 20mm so it would be an inch wider.

The only other issue might be the cost difference between 265/70/17 and 265/75/16s. Going with 16's actually saves me almost $100 over the same size 17's. But there may be extra fees involved in swapping the TPMS sensors between my current 17's and the "new" 16's that would wipe that "savings" out.

 

[Martinjmpr]

I should also point out that one reason I hate my current 17" wheels is that they look like this, courtesy of that salt and road grime from the Wisconsin years:

View attachment 365993

 

[Martinjmpr]

The "new" 16's are dirty and the clearcoat is worn and yellowed but at least they don't have the "cancer" that the 17's do:
View attachment 365994

 

[ExplorerTom]

33s will probably fit with no lift.

Looking at the numbers, I'd have to agree. If you buy from Discount, they will mount them and you can check for clearance issues right there in their shop (I've done it) before you buy them. I doubt .6" taller (from centerline) is going to cause problems. Width is tougher to tell because of the potential for different wheel offsets. But assuming the same offset the 33s would be .4" wider (from centerline of the tire).

 

[p nut]

The TPMS switch shouldn't cost anything at all. Most shops, including Disc Tire, will swap it for free, especially if you're buying tires from them.
_
If you're saving $25/tire, then it does make sense to go 16's. Especially given the condition of the rims. I would go over it with some paint and/or some clear coat before you get them on. If CO is anything like UT, in a month or two, everything will be covered in salt.

 

[Martinjmpr]

So then the next question would be....AT KO2's or Duratracs? :sombrero: Prices are virtually the same and both bear the "severe weather" rating that I want. Both seem to have their fans. I've never had Duratracs but I've had nothing but good experience with BFG AT's.

 

[ExplorerTom]

If CO is anything like UT, in a month or two, everything will be covered in salt.

Except the salt here isn't like the salt in the midwest/east. Or maybe it is, but it's so dry here that it doesn't have the same effect on metal.

So then the next question would be....AT KO2's or Duratracs?

Both are great tires. I think the BFGs wear better (ie longer) than the GYs.

 

[evilfij]

I vote for 265 75 R16 as I have them on my Sub.

If nothing else, finding a spare is easy.

 

[HuskerTrev]

I would go with BFG's over the Duratracs. The Duratracs do look cooler, but they ride almost as rough as a mud tire and are super loud running down the highway. Another option I would suggest are the General Grabber AT2's. They are a true 60,000 mile tire and are usually the same price or a little less than the BFGs. I am on my fourth set of Grabbers over three different vehicles.

Also, as far as swapping the torsion keys, it is really not that difficult, but you will need a torsion key tool (which can be had off of fleabay for next to nothing), to allow you to remove the bolts from the cross member and slowly remove the tension on the bars. Then it is simply getting the torsion bars knocked loose of both the keys and lower control arms, swapping the keys and then using the key tool to tension the torsion bars. The rear springs are even easier. Jack the vehicle up and set it on jack stands. Position the jack under one side of the rear axle, lift the axle until it is at normal ride height, remove the shock absorber and then slowly lower the jack, generally the spring will fall out on its own, otherwise a little persuasion from a pry bar will get it out. Slide the new spring in and jack the axle up. Install shock. Repeat for other side. Enjoy cold beverage.

You can literally perform a mild lift like this in an afternoon. The only thing that I do the week or so prior to the installation is to spray the heck out of the lower control arm torsion mount points, the torsion key bolts and the rear shock bolts with PBR blaster or similar penetrating oil. Leave the WD-40 in the garage, it won't help you on this, you need a "creeping" oil to get in and loosen everything up.

Hope this helps!

 

[Martinjmpr]

I would go with BFG's over the Duratracs.

The AT KO's are my "default" choice. When you're throwing $1k down on tires you don't want to make a mistake so I subscribe to the "buy once/cry once" philosophy.

You can literally perform a mild lift like this in an afternoon. The only thing that I do the week or so prior to the installation is to spray the heck out of the lower control arm torsion mount points, the torsion key bolts and the rear shock bolts with PBR blaster or similar penetrating oil. Leave the WD-40 in the garage, it won't help you on this, you need a "creeping" oil to get in and loosen everything up.

Hope this helps!

Yeah, I'm seeing a lot of PB Blaster in my future: