Suggestions for bed rail mounting Maggiolina on 2002 Tundra Access Cab

benchasephoto

Photographer
Hi everyone,

First post, long time lurker. I've done some searches and seen a few bed rail mounted Maggiolina's, but I can't quite tell what hardware is being used.

I've got a 2002 Tundra Access Cab, and I'd like to mount a Maggiolina exactly the same as seen here: http://www.upoverland.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10259&sid=7136f659875969ab1aee6e70141147e1#p10259

Looking through the Yakima site, I'm led to believe I could engineer a solution using the pads, control towers, and crossbars that are the correct length, but I figured I'd see if anyone here has done this or can recommend hardware so I can save myself some grief :)

I appreciate any help!

Thanks,
Ben Chase
http://benchasephoto.com
 

exploreFL

Observer
I think jimwagon, the dude and several others have done this. From what I have seen they have used the holes in the rail and put a piece if aluminum in and along the rail and then put cross bars from there. I am sure one of them will chime in.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
I think jimwagon, the dude and several others have done this. From what I have seen they have used the holes in the rail and put a piece if aluminum in and along the rail and then put cross bars from there. I am sure one of them will chime in.

It wasn't me. Mine has a homebuilt bedrack, the silver Tundra in the link the OP listed is Haggis' Multi-use Tundra thread. I think the rack he uses is no longer available, but once you read his thread you'll know the brand and can do a little googling to find out....
 

digitalferg

Adventurer
Tons of ideas in this thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/1483-Roof-Tent-Mounting-Options

I used thule false gutter mount attached to the bedside, but the ones i used were built for side mount rather than top mount (aka on the side of a camper shell, not the top of the camper shell). However, I've since found that yakima has top mount ones, but they sell for same price for only 2 of them. :( I kept looking and found some by TracRac i think. I'll be adding some info to that other thread with the updated info very soon. If you're interested in using thule/yakima type stuff, these are definitely a good solution to use to mount gutter type towers. Also, kinda depends how high you want it off the bed and how often you want to be taking it off and on.
 
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benchasephoto

Photographer
Thanks guys - I am going to want the Maggie to sit just below cab height (while not in use, stowed).

It's kind of funny - I sent a message to Yakima support explaining what I was wanting to do and their response to me was that they recommend that their racks not be used with any RTT. Which is odd...

Ben
 

Casper

Adventurer
Not sure if you want to go this route, but it made a simple rack for mine for when I want to use it, but not my Chaser (where the RTT normally lives) Two pieces of 1.5 DOM welded to a couple pieces of angle iron. Then I just use camper shell clams to hold it to the bed. I keeps it at roof level when stowed and still aloud me access to my tool box behind the cab. I chose this level to be able to see out the rear window while towing, access the tool box and keep it in line with the roof for as little wind drag as possible.

Sorry, these are the only two shots I have of it right now.

816939123_photobucket_80877_.jpg

816939123_photobucket_64227_.jpg


It's too bad your not closer to me, as I do not use it anymore and would be happy to pass it on for little $$.

Hope that helps.
Josh
 

benchasephoto

Photographer
Not sure if you want to go this route, but it made a simple rack for mine for when I want to use it, but not my Chaser (where the RTT normally lives) Two pieces of 1.5 DOM welded to a couple pieces of angle iron. Then I just use camper shell clams to hold it to the bed. I keeps it at roof level when stowed and still aloud me access to my tool box behind the cab. I chose this level to be able to see out the rear window while towing, access the tool box and keep it in line with the roof for as little wind drag as possible.

Sorry, these are the only two shots I have of it right now.

816939123_photobucket_80877_.jpg

816939123_photobucket_64227_.jpg


It's too bad your not closer to me, as I do not use it anymore and would be happy to pass it on for little $$.

Hope that helps.
Josh

Cool, thank you for the pictures. I imagine that mounting it at the same level as the roof is the best option for reducing drag. I was originally thinking about having it mounted to where the top of the Maggie would be level with the cab, but I'm rethinking that approach after looking at your pictures.

Thanks!
Ben
 

Mrknowitall

Adventurer
If you dont need to keep the top surfaces of the bed rail clear for a tonneau cover, I would suggest just bolting landing pads right to the bed rail, somewhere you have access from below.
I had the 68" bars for my tundra, as they're full body width. You can always cut them down later. Bars wider than the truck hurt when you walk into them.
If you use the same bar to line up all four mounts, you'll be sure they're interchangable. Mark/drill the holes with the landing pad attatched to the control tower and the lever in the open position. This will give you a clear shot from above. Once you've drilled the holes, you can detwermine how long the screws need to be- then its just a quick trip to the hardware store. I like zip-nuts under the bed-rail. You can use all sorts of plates to spread the load, but something else will give long before the bolts pull out of the rail. Then again, something to incease the footprint of the landing pad might keep the rail from getting dented under load. Dont over-tighten. The aerospace grade material (read "thin, for less weight") the bed is made of will squash if overtightened.
 

benchasephoto

Photographer
If you dont need to keep the top surfaces of the bed rail clear for a tonneau cover, I would suggest just bolting landing pads right to the bed rail, somewhere you have access from below.
I had the 68" bars for my tundra, as they're full body width. You can always cut them down later. Bars wider than the truck hurt when you walk into them.
If you use the same bar to line up all four mounts, you'll be sure they're interchangable. Mark/drill the holes with the landing pad attatched to the control tower and the lever in the open position. This will give you a clear shot from above. Once you've drilled the holes, you can detwermine how long the screws need to be- then its just a quick trip to the hardware store. I like zip-nuts under the bed-rail. You can use all sorts of plates to spread the load, but something else will give long before the bolts pull out of the rail. Then again, something to incease the footprint of the landing pad might keep the rail from getting dented under load. Dont over-tighten. The aerospace grade material (read "thin, for less weight") the bed is made of will squash if overtightened.

How much flex would I get in that configuration with two adults and two children? I am thinking a large size maggie for flexibility.
 

Mrknowitall

Adventurer
How much flex would I get in that configuration with two adults and two children? I am thinking a large size maggie for flexibility.

I don't think it would be too bad. Not positive about how much the maggie weighs, but lets say it can't be more than 200#. Using myself... youd have
200# Maggie
220# Self
140# Wife (theoretical- I would never publish my wife's weight online)
2x 30# kids
70# dog
-----------
690# family and tent. Add
60# Misc crap
-----------
750# of weight in camping mode. Bouncing down the trail, there'd be only 270# on the bars.

If i put one of the mounts on the rail and stand on it, it doesn't flex. So that gives you
4 mounts x
220# Self
----------
880# with minimal deflection

You could always add a 3rd bar in the middle.
 

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