Superduty lifts, alignments, and caster/camber bushings

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
A heads up for those looking to align their lifted or leveled Superduties.
If you are chasing your butt trying to get thing aligned, read on....

I've been struggling to get our 2011 F250 properly aligned since swapping to a set of heavy duty front coils that resulted in about 2-1/2" of lift.
First trip to the alignment shop gave us a baseline, which showed exactly what alignment bushings were needed.

Roughly 0.8 caster on both sides, and -0.1 camber drivers and -0.2 camber passenger.

A few other steering components showed play, so I ordered all parts and swapped them in, then returned to the alignment shop.
The shop recommended SPC "fixed" caster/camber bushings, so those are what went in.
And according to the SPC they are indeed fixed, without adjustment of any kind.

These are the bushings that were used....

From the last alignment printout, the caster was brought into spec. Both sides are +3 degrees caster now.
Drivers camber dropped to -0.2 but the camber on passenger side somehow went to -0.7
Its a visible amount of negative camber, and beyond the MFG spec range.

So I dug into it this morning, and this is what I found.

The so-called "fixed" bushings actually rotate in their bore nearly 1/2 a degree.
And tightening the ball joint nut on the passenger side forces the knuckle in, all the way to that -0.7 camber
Torqueing it to spec, installing the cotter pin, then "loosening" it without the nut unthreading, added between 0.4 and 0.45 degrees of camber.
By my math, that -0.7 camber should be in the neighborhood of -0.3, which is well within spec.

Short on options, I maxed it out, cleaned it up, and welded it in place.

video here if it works...



53128127643_f75c478f71_b.jpg
 
Last edited:

SexyExy

Observer
A heads up for those looking to align their lifted or leveled Superduties.
If you are chasing your butt trying to get thing aligned, read on....

I've been struggling to get our 2011 F250 properly aligned since swapping to a set of heavy duty front coils that resulted in about 2-1/2" of lift.
First trip to the alignment shop gave us a baseline, which showed exactly what alignment bushings were needed.

Roughly 0.8 caster on both sides, and -0.1 camber drivers and -0.2 camber passenger.

A few other steering components showed play, so I ordered all parts and swapped them in, then returned to the alignment shop.
The shop recommended SPC "fixed" caster/camber bushings, so those are what went in.
And according to the SPC they are indeed fixed, without adjustment of any kind.

These are the bushings that were used....

From the last alignment printout, the caster was brought into spec. Both sides are +3 degrees caster now.
Drivers camber dropped to -0.2 but the camber on passenger side somehow went to -0.7
Its a visible amount of negative camber, and beyond the MFG spec range.

So I dug into it this morning, and this is what I found.

The so-called "fixed" bushings actually rotate in their bore nearly 1/2 a degree.
And tightening the ball joint nut on the passenger side forces the knuckle in, all the way to that -0.7 camber
Torqueing it to spec, installing the cotter pin, then "loosening" it without the nut unthreading, added between 0.4 and 0.45 degrees of camber.
By my math, that -0.7 camber should be in the neighborhood of -0.3, which is well within spec.

Short on options, I maxed it out, cleaned it up, and welded it in place.

video here if it works...



53128127643_f75c478f71_b.jpg
You are still way low on your positive caster for the best drivability....a couple more degrees makes a huge difference on these radius arm trucks. You should definitely consider drop down radius arm mounts brackets. The other advantage of the drop radius arm bracket is the radius arm works best when near level. Any angle downward only sends road bumps to the radius arm pivot point with more energy and harshness. So instead of the axle moving up and down transmitting all energy to the spring, a percentage of that energy gets banged back to the pivot point of where the radius arm mounts on the frame. The more level the radius arm, the less you'll feel jolts as the suspension cycles up. Check out PMF suspension for their drop radius mounts that come in different levels of drop. The only downside of this is you will lose a couple of inches of ground clearance on the radius arm.

 

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