Supertramp Flagship LT pop-up slide-in pickup camper

[Vsgfoster]

Good to know, guess I will keep the sink based on the voices of experience above.

One other question: Hypothetically, what if I want to add some 12V electrical device to the camper in the future. Are any open slots available on the fuse block or can I specify a bigger fuse block?
Thanks

I'm sure it depends based on options ordered of course but mine was full. I would ask them about a larger one.

 

[Fueggia]

Welcome. I'll share some of my thoughts and you can combine that with those that others share.

Sinks, within smaller campers, are always a compromise. Yes we sometimes wish for a larger and deeper sink while washing some pots/pans, but we try to size most pans and dishes for the camper rather than using full size, so that helps. No issues with sink size while washing the rest of the dishes, washing hands, brushing teeth, etc. And, this sink is better (size and location) than our previous camper's sink, so no complaints from us! Ha. A larger and deeper sink would intrude on the cabinet space below and then the domino effect a wider sink would have on the stovetop and the drawer next to that.

Deleting it isn't a bad idea if you will never use it. You could delete the faucet as well and simply pull out the shower hose for when you want hot/cold water. The shower hose/faucet is included even if you don't get the optional interior shower since the idea is you'll still be able to use that for an outside shower or cleaning off boots, feet, pets, etc.
That hose is long enough so you could fill a dishpan and do dishes anywhere on the countertop, on the floor while standing outside the camper, or outside with a dishpan on a table.

In the galley cabinet, you would gain a void where the sink would normally be, but there would be no shelving there unless you had it customized (pics at the end of this post). And, the shower hose/controller sticks out into that space anyway so you won't be able to freely slide a full-width basket in/out on that top shelf even if the shelf was expanded rearward. The void could potentially allow taller items to be stored from the next shelf down, but you'd have to be mindful if it pushing/rubbing on any remaining plumping/lines.

The other option, and what I would lean towards, is keep the sink and faucet. They would be nice to have on occasion. Then simply cover the sink with a section of countersunk countertop or cutting board so you have use of that countertop space. And, you could use the sink itself for storage as you have done in the past, but have the option of pulling it out and using the sink. That is similar to the shower stall serving dual modes of being both a shower pan and a bench with storage for the toilet and other items when not being used as a shower.

Wouldn't be too hard to custom make one yourself, have a woodworking friend make one, or buy one of the retail options available, such as"
Mauricio and Julia offer a custom sink cutting board cover (and also their STC Flagship-specific bug screen). See images here (scroll down for board).
https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...720185261694/Lyles+Bugout+Products+V3+web.pdf

We don't typically listen to music when we camp (or drive for that matter) so not a lot of help there, but the latest gen of portable bluetooth speakers seems like a perfect solution because then you can move it wherever you want and can use it in the offseason when not using the camper. I paid for an optional head unit and two speakers in my fishing boat and it was way over priced and sound quality is mediocre to poor. I could have bought one or two portable bluetooth speakers for a fraction of the cost, had better sound, and used them other places rather than a system dedicated to the fishing boat. Live and learn. Ha.


Including pictures looking inward through the top shelf so you can see the void the sink would leave if deleted.

View attachment 864829


View attachment 864828

Welcome. I'll share some of my thoughts and you can combine that with those that others share.

Sinks, within smaller campers, are always a compromise. Yes we sometimes wish for a larger and deeper sink while washing some pots/pans, but we try to size most pans and dishes for the camper rather than using full size, so that helps. No issues with sink size while washing the rest of the dishes, washing hands, brushing teeth, etc. And, this sink is better (size and location) than our previous camper's sink, so no complaints from us! Ha. A larger and deeper sink would intrude on the cabinet space below and then the domino effect a wider sink would have on the stovetop and the drawer next to that.

Deleting it isn't a bad idea if you will never use it. You could delete the faucet as well and simply pull out the shower hose for when you want hot/cold water. The shower hose/faucet is included even if you don't get the optional interior shower since the idea is you'll still be able to use that for an outside shower or cleaning off boots, feet, pets, etc.
That hose is long enough so you could fill a dishpan and do dishes anywhere on the countertop, on the floor while standing outside the camper, or outside with a dishpan on a table.

In the galley cabinet, you would gain a void where the sink would normally be, but there would be no shelving there unless you had it customized (pics at the end of this post). And, the shower hose/controller sticks out into that space anyway so you won't be able to freely slide a full-width basket in/out on that top shelf even if the shelf was expanded rearward. The void could potentially allow taller items to be stored from the next shelf down, but you'd have to be mindful if it pushing/rubbing on any remaining plumping/lines.

The other option, and what I would lean towards, is keep the sink and faucet. They would be nice to have on occasion. Then simply cover the sink with a section of countersunk countertop or cutting board so you have use of that countertop space. And, you could use the sink itself for storage as you have done in the past, but have the option of pulling it out and using the sink. That is similar to the shower stall serving dual modes of being both a shower pan and a bench with storage for the toilet and other items when not being used as a shower.

Wouldn't be too hard to custom make one yourself, have a woodworking friend make one, or buy one of the retail options available, such as"
Mauricio and Julia offer a custom sink cutting board cover (and also their STC Flagship-specific bug screen). See images here (scroll down for board).
https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...720185261694/Lyles+Bugout+Products+V3+web.pdf

We don't typically listen to music when we camp (or drive for that matter) so not a lot of help there, but the latest gen of portable bluetooth speakers seems like a perfect solution because then you can move it wherever you want and can use it in the offseason when not using the camper. I paid for an optional head unit and two speakers in my fishing boat and it was way over priced and sound quality is mediocre to poor. I could have bought one or two portable bluetooth speakers for a fraction of the cost, had better sound, and used them other places rather than a system dedicated to the fishing boat. Live and learn. Ha.


Including pictures looking inward through the top shelf so you can see the void the sink would leave if deleted.

View attachment 864829


View attachment 864828

Good to know, guess I will keep the sink based on the voices of experience above.

One other question: Hypothetically, what if I want to add some 12V electrical device to the camper in the future. Are any open slots available on the fuse block or can I specify a bigger fuse block?
Thanks

Hi there- Thanks Chad for letting all know about our custom sink boards. RV Pilot - We were in the same position as you and designed this board to make the most of the counter space WITHOUT sacrificing the sink all together. With 5 gal sink grey water tank, you want to take advantage of flowing water inside your sink... our board allows you to make the most when not using sink... We are fellow STrampers... and we only make a few custom products... let us know if you are interested. Best in the new year- lylexp@aquaterrafilms.com

 

[Fueggia]

Here are pdf and photo of our custom sink cutting boards - multi wood. elegant addition to your counter top.
Faucet collapses within board when not in use.
send a request to lylexp@aquaterrafilms.com $90 plus shipping

 

[ejl04]

Good to know, guess I will keep the sink based on the voices of experience above.

One other question: Hypothetically, what if I want to add some 12V electrical device to the camper in the future. Are any open slots available on the fuse block or can I specify a bigger fuse block?
Thanks

Mine was full too. I’ve added a few electrical items and tied them into the bus bar and added an inline fuse for each. Not as clean as tying them into the fuse block, but it does the trick.

 

[Fueggia]

Ah yes- I forgot to add a comment on the 12v space.
I did added one item to the last remaining free space on the bus (a large National Luna Fridge). The ground had to be
doubled up though with another item. It has worked perfectly. If you want to continue to add 12v items then I would suggest expanding to a new bus - cleaner.

 

[Fueggia]

We have one last Custom magnetic door bug screen left.
These are made specifically for the Flagship STC Camper.
Interested in completing your camper ahead of bug season?
Shoot me a note: lylexp@aquaterrafilms.com

Lyle's Bugout is our small spin off producing unique products made just for STC Flagship camper.

From one owner to another we thank all of those that have trusted us with our screens and sink boards.
Here's to a great new year of adventure, creativity and camaraderie within this forum!
Mauricio, Julia and Tristan.

Link to our product info, PDF and videos

Lyle's Bugout — A Q U A T E R R A F I L M S

www.aquaterrafilms.com

 

[Fueggia]

To all Supertrampers...
We have two slots left on our next custom bugscreen run which will be ready for delivery within the next 3 weeks.
Please reach out if you are interested in securing our custom made magnetic door bug screen made exclusively for your Supertramp Flagship Camper.
Reach out at: lylexp@aquaterrafilms.com

Full info at Lyle's Bugout page:

Lyle's Bugout — A Q U A T E R R A F I L M S

www.aquaterrafilms.com

 

[Chadx]

For those interested, the hardtop version of the Flagship LT just dropped; the Flagship HT.
I spent four days in it last week. Here is the thread over in the hard top section (lots more to come, but that is my initial post):
https://forum.expeditionportal.com/...hard-sided-slide-in-6-5-pickup-camper.247361/

 

[Crux]

What is the max slope you can be at and still safely use the popup roof actuators?

For example parked on a sloped driveway and you want to pop the roof?

 

[Chadx]

Battery bank update:

The standard Flagship LT (and new flagship HT hard sided) camper builds include one Battle Born 100ah battery. In my previous two campers, I did all or part of the house battery and solar wiring setups/installs (battery, solar panel, solar controller, battery monitor, etc.). I do like Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) batteries and have experience with three different brands, including Battle Born and all have performed well.

In the original Flagship LT pop-top builds, Battle Born 100Ah batteries were the only choice. One could optionally add up to three additional Battle Born 100Ah batteries for a total of four batteries (400Ah). Two Battle Born batteries can fit in the electronics cabinet. Previously, if a 400Ah house battery bank was optioned, the drivers side under-bench storage would house two additional Battle Born 100ah batteries with conductors passing through the basement.

Coinciding with the the introduction of the Flagship HT but also available on the Flagship LT, STC is now using Victron Lithium 12.8v 200Ah Smart batteries for battery bank options of 400Ah or more. 200Ah Victron batteries are only slightly larger than the Battle Born 100Ah. This allows for two 200Ah Victron to fit within the electronics cabinet rather than utilizing the driver's side under-bench storage location. That location is still available, however, so there is now an 800Ah battery option that consists of two 200Ah Victron batteries located in the electronics cabinet and two 200Ah batteries in the under-bench location.


Below shows a Flagship LT driver's side under-bench storage being utilized for Battle Born batteries back when a 400Ah battery bank used four Battle Born 100Ah batteries. When batteries are added to this compartment (middle image below), a carpeted cover panel, with supporting tabs, separates the batteries from the upper storage compartment. That panel becomes the floor of the now-shallower storage compartment (right image below).

This is the same driver's side compartment when third and fourth batteries are not specced. The full-depth storage space goes all the way down to the "basement".

Victron batteries can fit more cells, in a given battery case size, because most Battery Management System (BMS) functions are performed outside of the battery case using external Victron components. Most other brands of lithium batteries have an internal BMS, and often also include internal Blue Tooth connectivity/monitoring and internal heat pad. Victron batteries have a few internal sensors/components and cell monitoring/communication cables that must be connected to one of five available model external BMS. The BMS, in turn, connects and communicates with Battery Protect disconnects (one on charge side and one on load side) to disconnect current from charge sources and disconnect current to a load. Battery heating pads are also external.

Victron makes five main BMS that are compatible.

• smallBMS – recommended for use in small systems.
• VE. Bus BMS / VE.Bus BMS V2 – recommended for systems with specific Victron inverter/chargers.
• Smart BMS 12/200 - recommended for use in Automotive and Marine systems having DC-loads and Alternators.
• Smart BMS CL 12/100 – recommended for use in Automotive and Marine systems having DC-loads and Alternators.
• Lynx Smart BMS - recommended for use in large systems.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For house battery banks from 100Ah to 200Ah, STC will continue to utilize one or two Battle Born 100Ah batteries.
For house battery banks from 400Ah to 800Ah, STC will utilize two to four Victron Lithium 12.8v 200Ah Smart batteries, one Victron smallBMS and two Battery Protect BP-100 (one on charge side and one on load side.

With the extra external components and wiring needed when using the Victron batteries, it makes sense for STC to continue to utilize the somewhat simpler solution of Battle Born batteries for a battery bank size of 100Ah - 200Ah. Once battery bank size grows to 400Ah, the extra components and wiring are worth it since 400Ah can fit right in the electronics cabinet or up to 800Ah if also utilizing the under-bench storage for battery storage.

I really like the concept of separating components from the cells/battery case. If a BMS or Battery Protect goes bad, you replace it without replacing the entire battery cells/case. Similarly, if cells go bad, you replace the battery cells/case but without the waste/expense of discarding the built in BMS, heat pad, bluetooth, etc. like you do with some sealed LiFePO4 batteries. Granted, there are brands with battery serviceable battery cases that you can open and replace internal BMS, sensors or cells, which is great (and I've done on some brand batteries I've owned over the years).

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Victron Lithium 12.8v 200Ah Smart battery:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Victron smallBMS:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Two Battery Protect BP-100:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Two Victron Lithium 12.8v 200Ah Smart batteries. 400Ah now fits in the electronics cabinet, leaving the driver's under-bench space available for storage or for another 400Ah of Victron batteries. External size heating pads are visible in this image.

Tipping forward the front panel in the electronics cabinet allows access to the Solar Controller, DC charger, smallBMS, Battery Protects, Busbars, shunt, etc.

All wiring is neat and tidy, even with the extra external Victron components. The main panels and components are wired with the panel on a wiring jig for consistency. Note that wiring loops accommodate the front panel leaning forward.
The two Battery Protects are mounted up high with one tasked to disconnect the charge side (cell overvoltage situation, cell temp too cold or hot for charging, etc.) and the other to disconnect the load side (cell voltage falls below set voltage, cell temp too high or too low for current draw, etc.).

The Victron shunt tracks inbound and outbound current to give a battery bank State of Charge (SOC).
The Victron smallBMS uses the information from the battery communication cables and makes decisions regarding when to trigger either one or both of the two Battery Protects.

 

[Vsgfoster]

Battery bank update:

The standard Flagship LT (and new flagship HT hard sided) camper builds include one Battle Born 100ah battery. In my previous two campers, I did all or part of the house battery and solar wiring setups/installs (battery, solar panel, solar controller, battery monitor, etc.). I do like Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) batteries and have experience with three different brands, including Battle Born and all have performed well.

In the original Flagship LT pop-top builds, Battle Born 100Ah batteries were the only choice. One could optionally add up to three additional Battle Born 100Ah batteries for a total of four batteries (400Ah). Two Battle Born batteries can fit in the electronics cabinet. Previously, if a 400Ah house battery bank was optioned, the drivers side under-bench storage would house two additional Battle Born 100ah batteries with conductors passing through the basement.

Coinciding with the the introduction of the Flagship HT but also available on the Flagship LT, STC is now using Victron Lithium 12.8v 200Ah Smart batteries for battery bank options of 400Ah or more. 200Ah Victron batteries are only slightly larger than the Battle Born 100Ah. This allows for two 200Ah Victron to fit within the electronics cabinet rather than utilizing the driver's side under-bench storage location. That location is still available, however, so there is now an 800Ah battery option that consists of two 200Ah Victron batteries located in the electronics cabinet and two 200Ah batteries in the under-bench location.


Below shows a Flagship LT driver's side under-bench storage being utilized for Battle Born batteries back when a 400Ah battery bank used four Battle Born 100Ah batteries. When batteries are added to this compartment (middle image below), a carpeted cover panel, with supporting tabs, separates the batteries from the upper storage compartment. That panel becomes the floor of the now-shallower storage compartment (right image below).

This is the same driver's side compartment when third and fourth batteries are not specced. The full-depth storage space goes all the way down to the "basement".

Victron batteries can fit more cells, in a given battery case size, because most Battery Management System (BMS) functions are performed outside of the battery case using external Victron components. Most other brands of lithium batteries have an internal BMS, and often also include internal Blue Tooth connectivity/monitoring and internal heat pad. Victron batteries have a few internal sensors/components and cell monitoring/communication cables that must be connected to one of five available model external BMS. The BMS, in turn, connects and communicates with Battery Protect disconnects (one on charge side and one on load side) to disconnect current from charge sources and disconnect current to a load. Battery heating pads are also external.

Victron makes five main BMS that are compatible.

• smallBMS – recommended for use in small systems.
• VE. Bus BMS / VE.Bus BMS V2 – recommended for systems with specific Victron inverter/chargers.
• Smart BMS 12/200 - recommended for use in Automotive and Marine systems having DC-loads and Alternators.
• Smart BMS CL 12/100 – recommended for use in Automotive and Marine systems having DC-loads and Alternators.
• Lynx Smart BMS - recommended for use in large systems.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For house battery banks from 100Ah to 200Ah, STC will continue to utilize one or two Battle Born 100Ah batteries.
For house battery banks from 400Ah to 800Ah, STC will utilize two to four Victron Lithium 12.8v 200Ah Smart batteries, one Victron smallBMS and two Battery Protect BP-100 (one on charge side and one on load side.

With the extra external components and wiring needed when using the Victron batteries, it makes sense for STC to continue to utilize the somewhat simpler solution of Battle Born batteries for a battery bank size of 100Ah - 200Ah. Once battery bank size grows to 400Ah, the extra components and wiring are worth it since 400Ah can fit right in the electronics cabinet or up to 800Ah if also utilizing the under-bench storage for battery storage.

I really like the concept of separating components from the cells/battery case. If a BMS or Battery Protect goes bad, you replace it without replacing the entire battery cells/case. Similarly, if cells go bad, you replace the battery cells/case but without the waste/expense of discarding the built in BMS, heat pad, bluetooth, etc. like you do with some sealed LiFePO4 batteries. Granted, there are brands with battery serviceable battery cases that you can open and replace internal BMS, sensors or cells, which is great (and I've done on some brand batteries I've owned over the years).

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Victron Lithium 12.8v 200Ah Smart battery:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Victron smallBMS:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Two Battery Protect BP-100:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Two Victron Lithium 12.8v 200Ah Smart batteries. 400Ah now fits in the electronics cabinet, leaving the driver's under-bench space available for storage or for another 400Ah of Victron batteries. External size heating pads are visible in this image.

Tipping forward the front panel in the electronics cabinet allows access to the Solar Controller, DC charger, smallBMS, Battery Protects, Busbars, shunt, etc.

All wiring is neat and tidy, even with the extra external Victron components. The main panels and components are wired with the panel on a wiring jig for consistency. Note that wiring loops accommodate the front panel leaning forward.
The two Battery Protects are mounted up high with one tasked to disconnect the charge side (cell overvoltage situation, cell temp too cold or hot for charging, etc.) and the other to disconnect the load side (cell voltage falls below set voltage, cell temp too high or too low for current draw, etc.).

The Victron shunt tracks inbound and outbound current to give a battery bank State of Charge (SOC).
The Victron smallBMS uses the information from the battery communication cables and makes decisions regarding when to trigger either one or both of the two Battery Protects.

Thank you Sir! Awesome information. Greatly appreciate you doing this.

Do you have any details on the location of the additional solar charge controller and it's associated external connector and routing? What type of connector are they using?

 

[Chadx]

Thank you Sir! Awesome information. Greatly appreciate you doing this.

Do you have any details on the location of the additional solar charge controller and it's associated external connector and routing? What type of connector are they using?

Great new option they are making available, but the HT that I used for four days in February, didn't have the option so I still haven't seen it first hand.

All I know is the "External Solar Port" option, as they call it, adds a second Victron 100/20 Solar Controller, an external connector and dedicated wiring. That system is completely separate, with no shared wiring or components, with the rooftop solar panels, wiring, and that Victron 100/20 Solar Controller. Totally redundant system and since they are not shared, no clamping of voltage or amps like when different spec panels are plugged into, and share, one solar controller. I'll be investigating what connector they use, where they place it, and where the second solar controller is installed in the electronics cabinet.

Background for those new to solar panels and controllers:
Being able to point portable panels directly at the sun increases output dramatically and will allow you to harvest power a lot closer to the rating of the panel compared to panels laying flat on a rooftop. You can park your camper in the shade, which also shades blocks roof-top solar array, but still place portable array out in the sun.

Like any solar controller, users need to be very careful not to exceed the voltage of the controller. That is considered by camper manufactures when sizing camper solar arrays and so there is no risk of the the user exceeding the controller limits. But offering a portable solar panel port, the camper and solar controller manufacturers are relying on the user to not exceed the controllers max voltage.

Limiting solar array voltage, to below the controllers max voltage, is important. Controllers don't like excessive voltage. The controller amperage is the max output amperage; not the max input.
In this case, the solar controller is a 100/20 so 100v max input and 20amp max output. For our 12v lithium batteries, we calculate with our approximate battery charge voltage which is 14.5v. 14.5v x 20amps is 290watt output from this solar controller and that 290watts match the Victron literature. Note the 20amp output is the same for 12v, 24v or 48v. We are 12v so only get 290watt max output, but the same controller will push up to 580watts to a 24v battery/system or 1,160watts to a 48v battery/system.

All solar panels have various voltage and amp ratings. The two voltage ratings are:
Voltage at Open Circuit (VOC) is the maximum voltage a solar panel can output when there is no load connected to it (no current flowing).
Voltage at Maximum Power (VMP), is the voltage at which a solar panel produces its peak or optimum power level. That will increase as temperature decreases so in extreme cold, voltage can climb quite a bit. That is why VOC is used to calculate max voltage.

For the solar array sizes we are likely to use as portable panels, it would be uncommon to exceed the max voltage of this solar controller. Any single portable panel is of no risk. If multiple panels are used, most users wire them in series since wiring in parallel uses more connectors and isn't as easy/tidy. But it would take quite a few panels wired in series to exceed 100v.

Wiring in series, you add up the panel voltage, but amps stays the same.
Wiring in parallel, you add up the panel amps, but voltage stays the same.

My imaginary portable panel is 200watts with VOC of 20v, VMP of 18v and amps of 11amps. We use VOC when calculating to ensure we stay below solar controller max voltage.
2 in series = 40v/11amps
4 in series = 80v/11amps
2 in parallel = 20v/22amps
4 in series = 20v/44amps
All arrays voltage stay well below the 100v max input voltage of a Victron 100/20. So you'd really have to start adding up panels in series to go over voltage, but something to be aware of since we don't have the advantage of the manufacturer controlling the panel size for a give solar controller. If someone goes out and lines up seven 20v VOC solar panels in series and the resulting 140v voltage fries the 100v solar controller, that is user error and no manufacturer will cover that under warranty.

As for amps and wattage, as mentioned, the max output of this controller is 20amps which is 290watts (14.5v x 20amps) for 12v nominal systems. Any array sized with higher watts than the controller can use, in perfect conditions, is is considered "over paneled". Meaning, any solar array sized over 290watts will ever only see 290watts of throughput on this particular controller. It doesn't matter if array is 400 watts or 4,000watts. There are times when overpaneling is prudent because typically you never get 100% efficiency from your solar array (when panels are hot, it's partly cloudy, sun is low in the horizon in the morning, evening or winter, etc.).

Solar panels are so economical now, might as well over panel a bit. True that in perfect conditions, you won't use all the power your array can generate, but in less than ideal conditions, a larger array will make more power than a smaller array. Overpaneling lets you harvest more power, in less than ideal conditions, than an array sized exactly the same as your solar controller.

 

[Chadx]

What is the max slope you can be at and still safely use the popup roof actuators?

For example parked on a sloped driveway and you want to pop the roof?

I don't recall ever running across that spec. I'll see if I can find out next week sometime.

 

[DADVNTRS]

Hi there Supertramp Owners, I have been enjoying this thread & learning a ton from all of you as I eagerly await the delivery of our LT in early July of this year.

As I plan the build & decide which bed (Bowen's or Custom Flat Bed with Boxes that sits minimum 2-3 inches higher), I was wondering if some other Ford SuperDuty + Supertramp LT combo owners with either stock box or other bed solutions could chime in on the total height of their builds from ground to top of camper.

I'm at the point of planning to see if it's even worth striving to have a f350 superduty with Suspension lift (Carli) with LT is even realistic to try to fit into a larger style shipping container with 8'6" opening to one day cross the Darién Gap...very aware that with such a monster, airing down tires to nothing + compressing my suspension of course tools at my disposal.

Kelsey at Supertramp has said most of her builds end up in the 9'5'' range & Bowen Customs has shared that their shop Ram 3500 is in the 9'0'' height range.

Thanks so much for the help & insights on total build heights, I appreciate you!

I look forward to becoming a contributing member of this group in the months to come!

Warmly,
Jeremie AKA @DADVNTRS

 

[Chadx]

I don't recall ever running across that spec. I'll see if I can find out next week sometime.

@Crux
I heard back and STC said they have not experienced an angle that the actuators did not perform as desired, so it doesn't sound like there are any concerns from steep driveway slopes or similar. I imagine there is some extreme angle limit or some angle where regular actuation would result in more wear and tear, but perhaps not enough to noticeabley reduce actuator life since these things seem to take a lot of cycles when flat. Some of the demo campers go up and down more times in one show weekend than I do in a year. Ha.

The angle limit is probably beyond an angle where you'd want to get in and out of the camper anyway. Meaning, not when stopped in the middle of a 20 or 30 degree hill. Reasonable judgement should keep everyone within the limits.