Suspension Fault

[Ray_G]

Run, don't walk, away from that mechanic.

I don't quite know where to start with that. Much depends on what you want to do yourself and where you are with the vehicle mentally and financially. Relatedly, it matters what you use the truck for too.

This is an illustration of the issue; is the radiator actually leaking or is it the plastic tee that is the bleed valve that everyone should replace with a $5 brass fitting?

 

[Alex M]

Ray G,

It sounds like the radiator has a leak and they wanted to replace the T valve. I have yet to notice a leak from the radiator, though. I also have not noticed any sounds coming from the wheels to indicate the bearings are loose. I'm not sure if that is something that would be a problem without me noticing it while driving.

I have loved my LR3 and am not currently in the place to get another one, or upgrade to an LR4 (Closing on a house this month is preventing any sizable purchase for the time being). It is mostly used as a daily driver/kid hauler during the week. We do take it off road a good bit, but usually stick to forest roads when with the entire family. For reference, the Alpine Loop is probably the most technical route we have done. Weekend camping trips will probably not start back up until the spring though.

I'm thinking that I need to try and fix it myself, but I will need to do it in short time, as it is a kid hauler. I saw a video from Atlantic British on replacing the struts, which looks like something I could probably figure out. Does anyone have any input on where I can look to learn how to replace the pump, radiator?

Also, what are the recommended places for good quality parts. I've seen air struts from $235 from Partsgeek.com to $450 from Atlantic British to even an ungodly amount from the mechanic (says he gets his from Arnot). Roverlandparts also has some radiators for pretty cheap.

Sorry, I just rambling right now as I am trying to process it all. To put this all in order here are my options:

1. Have the mechanic do it: Cannot afford/seems ridiculous to spend that much

2. Do it myself: Have to learn how and do it quickly.

3. Trade it in broken to a dealership for what I assume would be a drastically reduced rate and look at an LR4 (cannot do until at least next month)

4. No more Land Rover and buy a cheap beater car to get me by.

I think of my options, number two is probably the better, which means I have to learn how and where to do all this. I have long wanted to learn more about vehicle mechanics and this is the perfect (okay not perfect) incentive to learn how to do it.

If anyone is still reading my post at this point, sorry for the rambling/internal monologue. Any advice on guiding me through would be great, or if you have any other input into my different options I am open ears.

 

[ColoDisco]

Alot of that can be prioritized and tackled on your own. None of it is all that difficult except the rear bearing and that is only because it is awkward to press the old race off and get the new bearing on.

 

[Alex M]

Alot of that can be prioritized and tackled on your own. None of it is all that difficult except the rear bearing and that is only because it is awkward to press the old race off and get the new bearing on.

How would you prioritize it? I haven't noticed the radiator, or the bearings, but am unsure if leaving those could exacerbate the problem or become dangerous while driving.

Clearly the struts need to be replaced, as I am riding on bump stops. Also, do you know if when they say pump, are they referring to the compressor?

 

[Ray_G]

Your bearings could be going, it is a common thing on the LR3. That's why this is sitting in my amazon just waiting for when it needs to happen (Timken bearing/front hub

That said I'd suggest:
-determine are you in fact leaking fluid, from your radiator. This should be easy to check since you'll have less fluid than you should. The first thing to check, however, is the plastic tee I mentioned at the top. If you are leaking fluid, good chance it is there if yours is original. Instead of the cost of a radiator, and the labor, spend $5: Brass 3/8-3/8 barbed fitting.

Then you need to decide about your suspension. The pump is the EAS compressor, plus the relay, plus the rear struts. This is where I tend to shy away from advocating for a deliberate decision between EAS and coil...but your price tag to replace EAS will be more than getting a coil conversion kit from AB; even the +2 OME, which allows you to do the wheeling you do (and you can read all about the conversion on my thread). Oh, and you can do it in your garage with jack stands...so this may be one of those times where your context may make that make sense.

After you sort cooling and the suspension, worry about the bearings unless you have serious noise coming from them now.
r-
Ray

 

[Alex M]

Your bearings could be going, it is a common thing on the LR3. That's why this is sitting in my amazon just waiting for when it needs to happen (Timken bearing/front hub

That said I'd suggest:
-determine are you in fact leaking fluid, from your radiator. This should be easy to check since you'll have less fluid than you should. The first thing to check, however, is the plastic tee I mentioned at the top. If you are leaking fluid, good chance it is there if yours is original. Instead of the cost of a radiator, and the labor, spend $5: Brass 3/8-3/8 barbed fitting.

Then you need to decide about your suspension. The pump is the EAS compressor, plus the relay, plus the rear struts. This is where I tend to shy away from advocating for a deliberate decision between EAS and coil...but your price tag to replace EAS will be more than getting a coil conversion kit from AB; even the +2 OME, which allows you to do the wheeling you do (and you can read all about the conversion on my thread). Oh, and you can do it in your garage with jack stands...so this may be one of those times where your context may make that make sense.

After you sort cooling and the suspension, worry about the bearings unless you have serious noise coming from them now.
r-
Ray

Thanks, this definitely helps. I have not thought about coil conversion, as I have loved the ride of the air suspension, but I think this will be the best option for me. I agree that it will be cheaper, plus it looks like a much simpler install than the replacing almost all of the air suspension.

I park my car in my garage, so I feel like I would notice any leak of coolant. I had what appeared to be some transmission fluid leak the other day, but it definitely was not coolant. I will change out that valve for good measure and see if I notice anything else.

Thanks again Ray, this definitely gives me a doable way ahead. Semper Fidelis!

 

[ColoDisco]

Your bearings could be going, it is a common thing on the LR3. That's why this is sitting in my amazon just waiting for when it needs to happen (Timken bearing/front hub

That said I'd suggest:
-determine are you in fact leaking fluid, from your radiator. This should be easy to check since you'll have less fluid than you should. The first thing to check, however, is the plastic tee I mentioned at the top. If you are leaking fluid, good chance it is there if yours is original. Instead of the cost of a radiator, and the labor, spend $5: Brass 3/8-3/8 barbed fitting.

Then you need to decide about your suspension. The pump is the EAS compressor, plus the relay, plus the rear struts. This is where I tend to shy away from advocating for a deliberate decision between EAS and coil...but your price tag to replace EAS will be more than getting a coil conversion kit from AB; even the +2 OME, which allows you to do the wheeling you do (and you can read all about the conversion on my thread). Oh, and you can do it in your garage with jack stands...so this may be one of those times where your context may make that make sense.

After you sort cooling and the suspension, worry about the bearings unless you have serious noise coming from them now.
r-
Ray

Exactly how I would tackle it. Have you seen the leaks out of the rear air springs? It is a rare failure on these suspensions.

 

[Alex M]

I haven't seen the leaks. I rode it home on the bump stops too, but am now doubting that they ever tried to clear the fault. I really need the Gap tool, but am currently without so my driving is limited until I fix it.

 

[Ray_G]

Exactly how I would tackle it. Have you seen the leaks out of the rear air springs? It is a rare failure on these suspensions.

Yeah, that's why I'm skeptical about all of this to be honest. Not saying the mechanic isn't being honest, but I've had too many who didn't really want to work on Land Rovers put little effort into diagnosis, but a lot of effort into high estimates, as a way to dissuade.

For Alex; you may want to hard reset the truck if you haven't already done that-just to clear the faults. (http://www.disco3.co.uk/wiki/Hard_Reset)

Then if the EAS is still working after you reset, pull the fuses after she gets to normal ride height (F3 (Engine Bay), F26 (Engine Bay), F35 (Cabin)); this should get you off the pogo stick ride for a bit and let you see if you do have leaking struts.

Bite size chunks with all this; let's make sure your suspension is shot before you start throwing $ and even more time at it.
r-
Ray

 

[Mx468]

Hey Alex if your not leaking from the plastic t it's probably your thermostat housing. These things are notorious for leaking from them. I have one that I need to change out as well. Your oil tranny leak is probably from the mechanatronic sleeve. A $10.00 fix. As for order of fixing in my opinion would be obviously suspension, than front wheel bearings if your not losing coolant by the gallons. I top mine off about once a month. Pm me your number if you want to discuss over the phone. It'll be much easier.

 

[ColoDisco]

If you do need the trans coupler sleeve I know a shortcut on replacement. I suggest you replace the trans pan while your at it, filter part of trans pan.

 

[Alex M]

Do i do the hard reset, turn the car on and off then pull put the fuses, or should i pull them out while the battery is disconnected?

 

[Ray_G]

Do i do the hard reset, turn the car on and off then pull put the fuses, or should i pull them out while the battery is disconnected?

Hard reset, turn the car back on-hpefully she goes up on the bags. Then pull the fuses.

 

[Alex M]

I did the hard reset and when i turned the car back on the suspension warning came on again. No movement in the bags. I oulled the fuses just to see what if anything would change but it didnt. I now have a check engine light on agter doing it.

Also, shouldnt the radio presets gets deleted from doing the reset? They are still there which makes me wonder if i didnt successfully do the reset

 

[Ray_G]

I seem to recall re doing the presets; make sure you are removing both positive, then negative and then joining the two cables with something (I haven't found that nerve wracking but totally safe procedure to be necessary). Takes a bit of time, you can't just pop the negative off and she'll blank-gotta pull both and then let it sit for a bit before putting them back on.

Put the fuses back in before restarting.