Suspension Setup for Payload Help

[chuckburt28]

Hoping for some input from anyone with experience or knowledge with regard to suspension upgrades. I am slowly coming to terms that an overlanding rig including a camper setup like Alu Cab Canopy Camper, GFC, Tune M1, etc will put me over the payload capacity quickly. The hope is to not exceed by far, but I have a few questions for my 2019 Chevy Colorado Z71 in case I decide to keep this and not go bigger:

1. With or without some upgrades, how far over your payload have you gone over your payload limit without any noticeable issues?
2. What upgrades did you install if any?
3. I see very simple upgrades such as Timbren's SES "bump stop" type products that promise to limit sag etc, is this sufficient for backroad type driving with no intention of ever doing serious trails or rock crawling?
4. Would frame reinforcement be necessary? If so what modifications for the frame are available?

 

[Canlib]

I built an Alaskan style camper for my 2019 Z71 diesel and fully loaded with my wife and I on board it is 50 pounds under the gvwr. I replaced the front shocks and rear springs with Old Man Emu so I could run larger Falkland AT tires. I don't rock crawl but I've driven some very rough Forest Service roads with no problem. I don't think bump stop products would do the job and frame mods are not necessary. The Colorado warranty is void with a slide in camper (don't care) and there are lots of pictures on the web of snapped in half Colorado's (mostly Holdens) but most of the campers hung way off the back and my guess is they were going too fast. I love the compact size of the Colorado

 

[Westy]

Keep it light. Consider all mods and weight added. Do you really need a winch bumper? Roof racks, big heavy tires and swing out bumpers etc. Lots of great light weight camper options out there that provide comfort and storage possibilities.
Weight the vehicle before. Weight it after adding camper and building it out.

Consider replacement leaf springs built to fit your needs and load. Pair with some quality shocks that are appropriate and it will function well on and off road and be far more enjoyable to drive.

 

[chuckburt28]

I built an Alaskan style camper for my 2019 Z71 diesel and fully loaded with my wife and I on board it is 50 pounds under the gvwr. I replaced the front shocks and rear springs with Old Man Emu so I could run larger Falkland AT tires. I don't rock crawl but I've driven some very rough Forest Service roads with no problem. I don't think bump stop products would do the job and frame mods are not necessary. The Colorado warranty is void with a slide in camper (don't care) and there are lots of pictures on the web of snapped in half Colorado's (mostly Holdens) but most of the campers hung way off the back and my guess is they were going too fast. I love the compact size of the Colorado

Did you go with the medium or heavy load Old Man Emu set?

 

[Kiwibru]

Good thoughts above. Would also consider frame reinforcements be welded on the rear section of the frame to reduce flex. Definitely want stronger rear springs and more robust shocks so ditch OEM. Good to beef up the whole truck for the added weight. One way to go is to remove the OEM tub, then drop an aluminum tray and canopy on the truck, then add the key ingredients you want. Lots of product out there to choose from and look for positive reviews from end users to help filter your choices.

 

[rruff]

Would also consider frame reinforcements be welded on the rear section of the frame to reduce flex.

That often just makes things worse. Flex and weakness are two different things.

 

[Inyo_man]

I always recommend weighing the rig fully laden for travel before purchasing the suspension. This way you know the laden weight you're expecting the suspension to carry. For the type of off-highway driving you described, gusseting the frame is likely not needed.

My most recent example is a Tacoma. Did most of the (heavy) modifications I planned, weighed it, and ordered the appropriate suspension for my needs. In my case, I settled on Deaver Stage III and Elka 2.5 ( non-resi. ) with 700lb. coils. The rig is an outstanding drive, both on and off the highway.

Cheers

 

[kmcintyre]

I had my Eagle FWC on a Dakota (v8) and then a RAM ecodiesel; both 1/2 tons. The Dakota was a dog w/ the camper. The ECOdiesel was awesome.

I had upgraded springs, shocks, tires, eye bolts, etc., etc. but the things you can't fix that are critical are brakes. I was so overweight too and then you add cargo, water, toys, people, dog(s), food, etc. and you are really overweight. On the current truck, I didn't want to mess with it all so I went 1 ton w/ a flatbed. Very happy. I do wish the truck had the turning radius of the other rigs and my mileage on the ecodiesel was quite a bit better. I still get 16 (diesel) on a 1ton.

 

[Inyo_man]

I am slowly coming to terms that an overlanding rig including a camper setup like Alu Cab Canopy Camper, GFC, Tune M1, etc will put me over the payload capacity quickly.

Another suggestion on how to keep the weight down is to explore some of the "light" pop-tops.
As you mentioned GFC which is a good alternative, the OVRLND camper weighs only 275lbs and is a full pop-up, not a wedge. Which is very light, IMO.
We are loving the set up, and the owner/operator is great to work with!

Cheers

 

[TwinStick]

Well, we have a 23 ZR2 Colorado and I am in the same boat. The conclusion that I have come to is don't. I went even further and planned on front bed mounts reinforcement and rear bed side stiffeners and had a custom aluminum piece made to help stiffen the bed rails and transfer the bed rail weight to the bed floor.

Dealer said even with all that, it would still void the warranty. So I guess we bought a vehicle that looks like a truck but can no longer do truck things. So now we are exploring the idea of an Xventure X2 trailer but they start at 2x the cost of a Canopy Camper and a loaded up one is 4x that price.

So, reality is starting to set in because I seriously doubt we will ever be able to afford to buy one. We paid for an extended GM warranty of like 94 months or 100k miles and I don't want it to be voided.

Not a happy camper.

 

[rruff]

Dealer said even with all that, it would still void the warranty.

That's no different than any other mod. If you mod something the dealer will void the warranty on any related parts.

If you want to make the frame stronger, I'd advise finding out where the weak parts are (where it has failed for others) and reinforce those areas, but do not stiffen them. Well, it will naturally stiffen things a little... but that should not be your goal.

 

[2025 deleted member]

Well, we have a 23 ZR2 Colorado and I am in the same boat. The conclusion that I have come to is don't. I went even further and planned on front bed mounts reinforcement and rear bed side stiffeners and had a custom aluminum piece made to help stiffen the bed rails and transfer the bed rail weight to the bed floor.

Dealer said even with all that, it would still void the warranty. So I guess we bought a vehicle that looks like a truck but can no longer do truck things. So now we are exploring the idea of an Xventure X2 trailer but they start at 2x the cost of a Canopy Camper and a loaded up one is 4x that price.

So, reality is starting to set in because I seriously doubt we will ever be able to afford to buy one. We paid for an extended GM warranty of like 94 months or 100k miles and I don't want it to be voided.

Not a happy camper.

What part of the warranty is void? Engine? Tranny? Frame, electrical? I don’t think they can just blanket void the whole thing. Maybe you snap a frame for being overloaded so the frame warranty is void.

 

[2025 deleted member]

I guess gladiator frames are breaking- reinforced kits are available for those now.

 

[Moyshe Kapoyer]

I've never been a fan of overloaded a truck, especially if it's for something as frivolous as a camping trip.

I'd either pack light, tow a trailer, or buy a truck rated to comfortably haul what you plan on hauling