Sway control help.

[tombinpsca]

I know someone on this forum has dealt with this issue on their own rig. I'm coming from a dually to a SRW Dodge 3500 4x4 with a Bigfoot 2500 9.5. The first time I drove it on a Forest service road with some mild off camber sections I thought it was going to tip over. I never had this issue with the dually, although being 2 wd and wide had problems also. I've added new Bilsteins, Tork Lift Stable loads and BFG At 285-70 tires, I noticed an improvement, but hoping to do better.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Tom

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Can you move weight from up high to lower in the camper?

Your tires might not have stiff enough side walls to stop the sway.

 

[Buddha.]

Do you have a sway bar?

 

[Buliwyf]

You never noticed it with a DRW. That's a major clue.

It's your tires or lack thereof. Try stronger firmer tires aired up to 88. Make sure you have plenty of rear spring, quality dampers, and maybe a swaybar. Cross a scale. I wonder what that camper weighs. Some people overload campers.

Remove all frivolous weight. Extra plates, glasses, bowls, jackets.... Every once counts. Use paper plates.

Oh, and chassis cab DRW's aren't as wide as pickups. Might be time to upgrade.

Bigfoots website lists DRY weight for all of their campers at a super porky 3000+. That's too much for SRW. Assume that the camper is 300# overweight from the factory, then add all of your gear........ My go is to stay around 2000# dry with an F250. No more than 50# of gear per person.

 

[tombinpsca]

Do you have a sway bar?

No sway bar in rear, came stock in front. Any suggestions on make/model of sway bar?

Tom

 

[Buliwyf]

Helwig bigwig. Try Sumo Rebel springs as well.

 

[tombinpsca]

Can you move weight from up high to lower in the camper?

Your tires might not have stiff enough side walls to stop the sway.

jninch77:
All the the major weight is in the bed, batteries, water and waste tanks, only things on roof are 2 solar panels, no a/c. What are my choices for a stiffer tire on stock rims?

Tom

 

[Deleted member 9101]

jninch77:
All the the major weight is in the bed, batteries, water and waste tanks, only things on roof are 2 solar panels, no a/c. What are my choices for a stiffer tire on stock rims?

Tom

Just look for a tire with a higher load rating.

 

[tombinpsca]

You never noticed it with a DRW. That's a major clue.

It's your tires or lack thereof. Try stronger firmer tires aired up to 88. Make sure you have plenty of rear spring, quality dampers, and maybe a swaybar. Cross a scale. I wonder what that camper weighs. Some people overload campers.

Remove all frivolous weight. Extra plates, glasses, bowls, jackets.... Every once counts. Use paper plates.

Oh, and chassis cab DRW's aren't as wide as pickups. Might be time to upgrade.

Bigfoots website lists DRY weight for all of their campers at a super porky 3000+. That's too much for SRW. Assume that the camper is 300# overweight from the factory, then add all of your gear........ My go is to stay around 2000# dry with an F250. No more than 50# of gear per person.

Buliwyf:
We went with the SRW because many of the forest service and BLM roads were to narrow for the dually. Tires may be the issue, I have a lot of tread still but can upgrade in the future. Suspension is stock except new Bilstiens 5100 and Stable Loads. Weight tag on camper says 2563 lbs. but I should have it weighed to prove it. The situation I'm talking about took place on our way home from picking up the camper in Colorado. The camper was essentially empty, no water no waste, no propane, just our sleeping bags and a 85 lb. German Shepherd.

Thanks for suggestions

Tom

 

[Buliwyf]

Cooper makes 35x12.5r20 ST Maxx that F rated and 3900# capacity.

Keep in mind that new tires might just be wiggly for a while.

 

[tombinpsca]

Thanks for every ones input. I'm probably going to look into the bigwig sway bar and research the Sumo Rebels. When my current tires need replacing I'll upgrade my rims and tires to a "F" rated tire.


Tom

 

[::Squish::]

About a month late to this thread, I am wondering if the OP did anything? Did you get a rear anti sway bar? Or beef up the springs?

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

Sway bars will definitely help, but they will also reduce wheel travel and you will be more likely to lift a wheel when crossed up.
There is no such thing as a free lunch.
Our vehicle has no sway bars. We get used to it.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[tombinpsca]

Squish:
I didn't go with the sway bar as I heard it can limit your rear articulation when off road. I'm probably going with a beefier spring pack or Sumo Springs. I currently have to many irons in the fire and won't make my decision until this winter.

Tom

 

[Regcabguy]

The better the road handling the worse it's going to handle offroad.
Street improvements in handling yield a resistance for the body to break plane with the axle. Just the opposite for what you want offroad where articulation is a must. Stronger tires are a must regardless. Airing down makes a huge positive difference. Disconnecting one side of a swaybar works great.
You could really use some camper valved King 2.5's on that thing too with that load and high cog.