swaybar disconnect question

[troy]

This past weekend I snapped the link that connects the swaybar to the axle. It was a stock link on a '98 cherokee lightly modded. I run the OME lift with no additional spacers, etc so about 2" lift. I didn't think I was offraoding, just backing a pop-up camper up into a off camber parking spot.

I've had a lifted wrangler with the JKS quick connects and disconnected them once, I'm not a hardcore offroader, but like to travel expo style.

Question is, do I need to upgrade because of the suspension lift, or just get new stock replacements? My tracbar appears to be worn out as well, would an aftermarket tracbar have any benefits besides adjustability?

Anyone have thoughts on the OME comfort shocks versus the regular? I was going to get them since I mainly drive (80%) unloaded on the highway.

I'm going through the Jeep and doing shocks, bushings, and whatever else needs attention.

Thanks for the responses in advance, I really trust the info on this forum.
Troy

 

[whitecon]

Depending on which trackbar you get, they usually get rid of the bushings on at least one of the ends and replace them with either a Heim or Johnny Joint. This will result in a bit more articulation out of it. Again, it does depend on which one you go with. I have the Rubicon Express HD with the johnny joint on the frame end.

 

[bat]

With 2" of lift nothing fancy is needed for a trac bar, you could get away with just a stock one.

 

[Desert Dan]

I would go with the adjustable length JKS dissconnects and only dissconnect them if you want more flex.

 

[Backwoods Rambler]

Is it possible that the sway link snapped because it's running in stock form with a 2" lift? If so, then some alternative mounting method is in order, like these RE mounts attached to a modified stock link:

Or, if you don't have the tools to mod the stock link; a set of these RE links are not very expensive:

Total = $60 - not too bad.

For a track bar I would recommend (considering your useage) one of these from Teraflex. The use a stock frame end which is nice for reliability, plus the adjustable portion is designed much like a steering link; so there's no need to remove the bar to make adjustments, which is SUPER cool.

Note: It's the top one in the pic. It's listed for a TJ, but I believe it should work on an XJ as well.

 

[kidneight]

Imagine a fully adjustable track bar that eliminates the weak/worn stock upper tie rod end on ZJs and XJ/MJs factory track bar and will allow for AMAZING amounts of droop and tighten up your steering responsiveness at the same time. This kit includes a modified upper track bar mount and the highest quality track bar that exists, custom built specifically for us to my specifications, and fully adjustable to center your front axle perfectly. It won't interfere with any existing suspension components and will allow MAXIMUM articulation out of your front axle assembly and a larger resistance to Death Wobble. It's been designed to work with XJs and ZJs from 0"=>8" of lift.

ARTICULATION INCREASES:

From the factory, your passenger front tire can only droop approximately 8" from stock height due to the upper tie rod end on the factory track bar. Now, subtract the height of YOUR lift from the maximum of 8", and that's how much passenger side droop you have before the tie rod end binds causing wear and then Death Wobble. You can test this yourself if you don't believe me. Just remove the lower bolt on the stock track bar and allow it to hang. Pretty scary, huh? Bet you didn't know that!! That's the maximum it will go before it binds on itself, which is a future failure in the making!!! Other track bar manufacturers use Heim® joints and Johnny® joints in a vertical orientation, which allow the track bar to drop a bit further than stock, but still not as much as you need.

DEATH WOBBLE RESISTANCE:

Due to the superior strength and thickness of our custom bar (.156 wall 1.25" OD tube), my custom interference-fit ultra-thick bushing inserts and the 1/2" Grade 8 hardware that comes included in the kit (50% more strength than stock bolts so that you can really torque it down without worrying about snapping the bolt off), you will see a higher Death Wobble resistance as the entire kit stiffens up the front suspension. An added bonus: There are two additional benefits you may discover as well: an substantial increase in steering response (tighter steering = less wandering) and slightly reduced bump steer, most evident on the taller rigs.

EVEN BETTER DEATH WOBBLE RESISTANCE:

Recently, I've had some SUPER-hard Rockwell Durometer bushings made by our poly molding company. You can't get these anywhere else, folks. The stock rubber bushing material that comes in the stock track bars is less than the 45d hardness of the "regular" bushings that we have used over the years. The SUPER-hard bushings are a 60d harness, or 33% stiffer, giving even better resistance to Death Wobble. Since others have asked, there is a less-than 5% increase in shock transmission to the cabin at 8" of lift, so with 4" or less, you will likely never even notice the change, but in any case, it's a very low price to pay for what MAY cure your Death Wobble completely.

As borrowed from Kevin's off road. I have this on my 96 Grand and love it. Also recentered the Jeep over the axle.

 

[Backwoods Rambler]

Imagine a fully adjustable track bar that eliminates the weak/worn stock upper tie rod end on ZJs and XJ/MJs factory track bar and will allow for AMAZING amounts of droop and tighten up your steering responsiveness at the same time. .....................but in any case, it's a very low price to pay for what MAY cure your Death Wobble completely.

Welcome to the forum, but I must say.....

Really; your first post on here is to push a product you're selling to someone who, based on his own description of his needs, doesn't need it? The hard duromoter bushings and custom upper mount just means that this vehicle he drives daily will no longer be able to be serviced with easy-to-access, over the counter parts.

I think it's safe to say that his track bar wore out mostly because of it's age and partially because of the 2" lift.

Don't get me wrong; it sounds like you have a good product, but it goes way beyond what the OP needs are.

 

[alosix]

Is it possible that the sway link snapped because it's running in stock form with a 2" lift? If so, then some alternative mounting method is in order, like these RE mounts attached to a modified stock link:

Or, if you don't have the tools to mod the stock link; a set of these RE links are not very expensive:

Total = $60 - not too bad.

What this guy said . You probably just popped the ball out of the link right? Pretty common problem for used swaybar ends. I've seen it happen on street TJs and XJs at stock height as well.

Disconnects are nice, but if you aren't doing anything nuts there probably isn't much reason for them.

if you like.. i can check with the guys that still have the parts from my remnants of an offroad shop. Might have those 2 things lying around from broken open kits.

 

[bat]

Before you go out and buy a track bar make sure at the shortest length it will work on on your jeep. With a 2" of lift the axle has probably move about 0 to 1/4 of an inch. If in the future you see more lift and bigger tires buy stuff that will work in the future but if not forget about it.

 

[Backwoods Rambler]

Before you go out and buy a track bar make sure at the shortest length it will work on on your jeep. With a 2" of lift the axle has probably move about 0 to 1/4 of an inch. If in the future you see more lift and bigger tires buy stuff that will work in the future but if not forget about it.

This is a good point. Typically at 2" of lift you don't need a new track bar at all, which is why redrilling is so common.

Heck, I just helped a friend install an RE 3.5" lift and even at that height redrilling was the order of the day (as advised by the installation instructions), so a new track bar may not even be needed. Just R&R your original.

 

[kidneight]

Thanks for the welcome, but I am not selling anything. I thought that he was asking for other benifits of a track bar, so as a product that I have used and remembered some info to share I thought that I would. So sorry if it was taken or presented out of context.

 

[troy]

Thanks for all the replys. I've decided to just go with stock replacement. Like I said earlier, when my TJ popped the ball on the link I replaced with JKS discos and rarely used them.

By the way it actually completely seperated into two peices. Still pretty good that it lasted to 220K, 70K of which were lifted. I'll be going with a stock track bar replacement too. Everything just needs to be tightened up a little due to mileage.

Anyone have a comment on the N35C(comfort) vs. N35 OME shocks? I don't know of anyone that has them, but they are available. I currently have the Heavy OME springs and cheap doestch tech shocks wich are all leaking and ride terrible.

Thanks,
Troy

 

[troy]

Just got done ordering up parts from Dirk at DPG Offroad. I've used him in the past, plus he was about $50 cheaper in total than a few of the online shops. Here is what I got to spruce of the tired old girl:

Stock parts:
- sway bar links
- sway bar bushings
- Upper Control Arms
- Lower Control Arms
- Upper Axle busings
- Rear sway bar busings
- Track bar

Aftermarket:
- OME shocks
- OME steering stablizer

I recently replaced the steering TREs and Tie Rods with a JCR 1-ton set up, and gave her a complete tune-up and fluid change. I can't wait for the improved ride. It was getting a little loose over bumps on the highway, and the clunking was annoying offroad. Tough to spend the money, but it is better than a car payment.