Switching Reverse/Rear Lighting

[ThirstyCamel]

Yes the capacitor would go across terminals 85 & 86. Your diagram is a bit off though.
Okay you have a couple of options first being where you tap into the OEM reverse circuit; the other being using a non-illuminated switch or an illuminated one.
For the sake of simplicity I'm going to assume you tap into the OEM circuit at the TIPM and use a non-illuminated switch. For that setup a SPDT switch will work fine. What you'll need to do is connect the center pole of the switch to the 86 terminal on the relay and connect the 85 terminal of the relay to ground. The 87 terminal of the relay will connect to your LED lighting. The top pole of your switch will connect to battery + (or any convenient + source) and the bottom pole of your switch will connect to the OEM reverse light circuit. The diode needs to be between the place where you tap the OEM reverse circuit and the switch with the stripe on the diode (cathode) facing in the direction of the switch. The capacitor jumpers across the 85 & 86 terminals with the + side toward the 86 terminal. The 30 terminal of the relay goes to battery +

Hope thats clear for you. Draw it out and it will make sense when you see it.

EDIT: if your capacitor is marked with the letters NP on it then it is non-directional and it doesn't matter which way it is facing when you jummper it accross the 85 & 86 terminals. If your capacitor DOESN'T have the letters NP on it then it should have arrows on it and you'll want the arrows pointing toward terminal 85.

 

[bobholthaus]

ThirstyCamel- other than my 3 way switch, which in essence works exactly the same as a SPDT but with an Off position in the middle, what you typed and what I drew are exactly the same thing. Re-read line by line and look at my diagram; I've done this about 5 times now and see no difference, unless I wasn't clear on some of my lines. Thank you for going to these lengths to help me. If you still thinks something is off, please clarify. The only thing I'm not showing is the capacitor. Btw, my accessory fuse box is a BlueSea; I use one wired directly to the battery, and a second one that is relay switched to the ignition, giving me 6 hot leads and 6 switched leads. Both fuse boxes are mounted to a Source Bracket supplied to me by sPOD (two Blue Seas fit John's bracket exactly and look great under the hood; pics to follow). I love the sPOD but he cannot do three way switches in it; so I settled on his custom bracket which puts my two Blue Seas in the perfect void under the hood.

 

[bobholthaus]

Oh, and I use illuminated switches from OTRATTW but I didn't want to get into that wiring on this diagram; mine are two colored with half illuminated when the vehicle is running, and the other half lit up when the circuit is on, in both constant mode and auto mode (which is nice reminder when the switch auto illuminates when switching into reverse - not finished on JK yet, but did this on my Polaris Rzr with a similar 3-way switch setup)

 

[ThirstyCamel]

Oh, and I use illuminated switches from OTRATTW but I didn't want to get into that wiring on this diagram; mine are two colored with half illuminated when the vehicle is running, and the other half lit up when the circuit is on, in both constant mode and auto mode (which is nice reminder when the switch auto illuminates when switching into reverse - not finished on JK yet, but did this on my Polaris Rzr with a similar 3-way switch setup)

Would love to see pictures of your sPOD bracket with bluesea boxes in it. If you're using the double illuminated switches from OTRATTW then I'm sure Jim included the diagram you need to wire the back of the switch.

FYI I'm using an sPOD with a DPDT switch for my aux reverse lights. Its a bit tricky but works well.

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: Heh Heh, my switchs are all illuminated, but

I never have to look atem to usem--there's no need for the lights !

You should learn the position of each switch and never have to look again, just operate by feel (switchs that is):Wow1: !

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[bobholthaus]

Finally got around to mounting the blue seas on an sPod bracket. Used a piece of thin aluminum as a platform.

 

[bobholthaus]

My best advice, use all black jacketed wire for main power and ground. I thought the colors would be cool, until I was done, and there was color all over the engine bay.



I used a large fuse splitter thing. Ran 8 gauge wire (should have run 4 gauge from distribution block back to battery, but I didn't have any handy). Screwed distro fuse block and ground block to top of TPIM box. That small red zip tied wire will go away when I add the inline relay to switch one of the blue seas. I tapped fuse M6 in the TPIM for switched power to run the relay.

 

[Rynomar]

Wow! You have been busy! What all are you hooking up to the Blue Sea Fuse Boxes? You could always get some conduit to run the wiring in to hide the colored wire. It is a pretty good idea to have it protected anyway.

 

[bobholthaus]

Good idea on the flex loom; the colors make the whole thing look messy. I plan to cover them all.

On the switched blue sea, I have Valentine One radar detector, Homelink rear view mirror, will have heated seats and additional interior lighting, and eventually an amp or two, and likely a CB for the jamborees. On the constant, I have my Air Lift airspring compressor, Rigid Dually reverse lights, two accessory outlets in the back seat (to be installed), and possibly some additional lighting. I realize the whole thing is likely overkill, but I figure anything worth doing is worth overdoing! I love wiring and minor fabrication, so half of all of this stuff for me is just the fun of doing it and trying to make it look oem or better. I love having things dialed in just right, so I'm glad to know that if I ever want to add more lighting or electronics that I have very clean direct, fused power that I can individually fuse.