Has anyone done their own SYE install? Is it in the scope of a DIY guy? Trying to reduce drive line vibes. Will be tightening everything today. Test drive, next step is universal joint replacement. Just trying to get a head start if it comes to an SYE. I bought the XJ with the lift. I think it is three inches.
SYE on NP231 2000 XJ?
- Thread starter SamBaker
- Start date
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
A "hack and tap" would be much easier and less expensive...Just my .02s 
Mel.Specs
Adventurer
Yes, several. Scope? Depends on the DIY guys skill level. It requires splitting the case, replacing the main shaft, rear output/tail housing, installing an output yoke and measuring for a new drive sahft. The only specialty tool would be snap ring pliers and it can be done without splitting the T/C from the tranny.
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
Here is a link to the H&T. There are a few ways to get your SYE done with varying level of costs and strength improvements. You can get a Chinese made full shaft replacement pretty cheap but that's up to you. You can go with one of the more expensive but higher quality kits like JB Conversions or Novak and likely never break anything involved but as mentioned, it requires splitting the case. Its honestly not a difficult case to work on and the swap is pretty straight forward... just takes effort and attention to detail.
Where the H&T differs is that you are using all the stuff that came in the factory case. You essentially cut down the output shaft, drill a hole in the center of it, run a tap into it to create threads, and then install the new yolk. Where you will always find different opinions.... Some will argue that this is a "weak" set up.... I personally know 5 folks that have installed this deal, one failure. And the failed one admits that he jacked up the install and ended up having a loose fitting yolk. Feel free to research it all you want, I'm not getting paid for it. If you think its within your ability and the full kit scares you, go for it. If you think the full kit is a better option... knock it out. I'd avoid the cheaper kits though to be honest... but that's just me.
http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/featured/slip-yoke-eliminator-hd-yoke-style-by-dirtbound-offroad/
Where the H&T differs is that you are using all the stuff that came in the factory case. You essentially cut down the output shaft, drill a hole in the center of it, run a tap into it to create threads, and then install the new yolk. Where you will always find different opinions.... Some will argue that this is a "weak" set up.... I personally know 5 folks that have installed this deal, one failure. And the failed one admits that he jacked up the install and ended up having a loose fitting yolk. Feel free to research it all you want, I'm not getting paid for it. If you think its within your ability and the full kit scares you, go for it. If you think the full kit is a better option... knock it out.
I'd avoid the cheaper kits though to be honest... but that's just me. http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/featured/slip-yoke-eliminator-hd-yoke-style-by-dirtbound-offroad/
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
Much cheaper and easier to run an offset u-joint or a rear CV drive line without installing the SYE.
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
^true^
My only issue is that if you trash the drive shaft and its still a slip yolk... your kinda screwed as the fluid has a fun time drooling out the back.
My only issue is that if you trash the drive shaft and its still a slip yolk... your kinda screwed as the fluid has a fun time drooling out the back.
K2ZJ
Explorer
bob91yj
Resident **************
Hack and tap is the way to go. Not sure I've ever seen/heard of a CV style slip yoke driveshaft. I've been running mine for years without even thinking about it. This is an example of the torture I've put mine through...
The hack and tap can be done in the driveway with a grinder with a cut off wheel, ruler, drill and a tap. Even if you cut the shaft crooked it's not the end of the world, a buddy of mine butchered his, still works great with no issues.
Measuring for the driveshaft, and then resetting your pinion angle's are the most difficult. With U-joints and a slip yoke, you want the pinion angle and tcase output shaft to be parallel, with a CV shaft you want to point the pinion 1-2* below pointing straight at the tcase. Scroll down about half way on this page to see a drawing. Tom Woods is a great source of information, and can probably be a one stop shop for you to get everything you need.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
:
Edit: apparently that link doesn't go to the correct page, Tech Info>Angles vs Slopes, then half way down the page!
The hack and tap can be done in the driveway with a grinder with a cut off wheel, ruler, drill and a tap. Even if you cut the shaft crooked it's not the end of the world, a buddy of mine butchered his, still works great with no issues.
Measuring for the driveshaft, and then resetting your pinion angle's are the most difficult. With U-joints and a slip yoke, you want the pinion angle and tcase output shaft to be parallel, with a CV shaft you want to point the pinion 1-2* below pointing straight at the tcase. Scroll down about half way on this page to see a drawing. Tom Woods is a great source of information, and can probably be a one stop shop for you to get everything you need.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
:
Edit: apparently that link doesn't go to the correct page, Tech Info>Angles vs Slopes, then half way down the page!
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
That guy is a freaking moron for listening to other morons telling him to launch it up that slickrock causing it to bind up when it hopped and likely had the slip yoke maxed out with very little load on it. My 96 is still on its original rear drive shaft and slip yoke after 13 years of trails, 5 years of which have been at 4.5 inches. Our 97 still has the original 249 with a custom rear CV drive shaft, but it is also running a triangulated 4 link setup and is dialed in quite nicely so the drive shaft is lined up where it should be. But I realize the ZJ's can get away with it more often than XJ's and especially TJ's due to their longer drive shaft.
K2ZJ
Explorer
What? What hop are you talking about? The shaft breaks when his left rear hits that little dip, well after the initial hit.
Yes it can be done w/o pulling the case, but it's not too much more work to pull the case, set in on the bench, and do it. T-cases are very simple units. I would recommend buying a SYE kit, not a HNT. That way you can replace the Teflon shoes on your shift forks that probably need to be replaced anyway. Good luck with your project!