Synthetic winch line vs. metal winch line??
- Thread starter Rickybobby12
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Mekcanix
Camper
I wonder could the Milemarker be the issue not the rope. My rope was bought from a local crane hoist sling supplier, they cut a length of amsteel blue threaded a loop in each end, I ended up adding a metal thimble and then added a protective covering that to be honest fits like crap. we had rain here last week but a warm sunny weekend and yesterday was nice as well, when i pulled it off the drum it was still moist. My big concern is it safe to use after having the rust attach to it. Like I said in my original post it was like pulling carpet from a rusty floor, fibers from rope stuck to drum and rust stuck to rope.
crawler#976
Expedition Leader
Take the time to read this, and note that Mr. Elfstrom only uses synthetic line.
http://www.overlandexperts.com/docs/news/overland_journal_winching_spring_2008.pdf
It's perhaps the best short read on winching I've ever seen.
http://www.overlandexperts.com/docs/news/overland_journal_winching_spring_2008.pdf
It's perhaps the best short read on winching I've ever seen.
Mekcanix
Camper
Excellent article, Thank you. But not to be rude no one has answered the original question that I asked, I know the synthetic line is better then steel, when I bought mine all told it cost me around $400 bucks, and i felt it was worth it. What I need to know is : can the rust from the drum damage the rope and if any one has a idea could the rope be the cause of the exsessive drum rust or is the milemarker the issue. I would prefer to know so that I dont use a line thats pssibly bad and get someone hurt, at the same time I dont want replace the amsteel with another one if I will be in the same boat.
Again thank you for your time guys, I do appreciate the answers given
Again thank you for your time guys, I do appreciate the answers given
I'll take a stab at it. (im a wire user). (though will go synth soon just for the weight and safety factor)
Synthetic rope can collapse and deform in a rolled position more than steel. It has the ability to hold onto moisture a little bit more. The weaving is tighter, and thereby can hold more moisture than wire strand.
Steel also dries quicker around enviromental factors- it has more air pockets for air to circulate- the steel readily heats up in the sun, and conducts the heat all the way in, and dries itself out. Synth heats up, but it doesn't conduct heat very well. You theoretically can provide some limited internal drum brake cooling with wire rope, where as Synth would be more of an insulator.
The drum can and will rust. I don't think a little bit of rust will hurt anything, but it will abrade the line, somewhat. How much, Depends on the pitting and rusting level.
I'd take the line off, mask off the area, and wire brush/sand the surface. Get some zinc chromate, and spray on a few coats. Top it off with whatever epoxy based or enamel based top coat you like. You can use etching Zinc primer (some call it cold galvanizing) in a pinch, but a guy who does boats for a living sold me on zinc chromate.
let it dry fully (a few days preferably to harden up). Then respool. Only when the line touches or abraids the drum (or drum sides) should the paint come off. In which case, you'll have to do this process again at a later date.
BTW, there used to be some cause to believe something about the electrical system causing vehicles to rust. Not sure.
Synthetic rope can collapse and deform in a rolled position more than steel. It has the ability to hold onto moisture a little bit more. The weaving is tighter, and thereby can hold more moisture than wire strand.
Steel also dries quicker around enviromental factors- it has more air pockets for air to circulate- the steel readily heats up in the sun, and conducts the heat all the way in, and dries itself out. Synth heats up, but it doesn't conduct heat very well. You theoretically can provide some limited internal drum brake cooling with wire rope, where as Synth would be more of an insulator.
The drum can and will rust. I don't think a little bit of rust will hurt anything, but it will abrade the line, somewhat. How much, Depends on the pitting and rusting level.
I'd take the line off, mask off the area, and wire brush/sand the surface. Get some zinc chromate, and spray on a few coats. Top it off with whatever epoxy based or enamel based top coat you like. You can use etching Zinc primer (some call it cold galvanizing) in a pinch, but a guy who does boats for a living sold me on zinc chromate.
let it dry fully (a few days preferably to harden up). Then respool. Only when the line touches or abraids the drum (or drum sides) should the paint come off. In which case, you'll have to do this process again at a later date.
BTW, there used to be some cause to believe something about the electrical system causing vehicles to rust. Not sure.
crawler#976
Expedition Leader
Dyneema/Amsteel comes from the saltwater fishing industry. As an old Coasty, I can tell you that rust is everywhere on commercial fishing boats - it won't hurt the line.
Wet synthetic line could most certainly cause a steel drum to rust. It takes a long time for the bottom layers to dry. As to what effect that has on the drum itself, I can't answer that. If you clean the drum, then apply a quality rust inhibiting paint to it, that should solve the problem.