T-100 Build Up Plans

[RockyMtnFamily]

I am in the process of doing some modifications to my T-100 to make it worthy of doing some back-country exploring. Current plans/modifications include:

Installing a dual battery set up in it (not the Painless one, but a better one that works automatically).
Installed Aisan (stock) hubs and 1.5" ball joint spacers
Installed a rear 1" lift block to match front lift.
Installed Rancho 5000 shocks to match with the lift and travel.
I currently have 31x11.50 MT's, but would like to go to 33x10.50's.

I have a Coleman Thermoelectric 12 volt fridge that I wired up an outlet for in the rear of my bed.
The previous owner had a fiberglass shell that I received with the truck.
Install a power inverter to run small appliances.

I plan on adding a rear Aussie or Lock Rite locker
I have some square tube to build some rock rails out of.
Plans for making a a front bumper with a receiver hitch/brush guard.

My biggest worry is how to take care of the "tail drag" problem without bob-ing the rear end. I would like to keep the bed intact as I sometimes haul an ATV or motorcycle when I go on camping trips. I also like to have the bed for hauling equipment and other toys, or just for putting the shell back on to camp in the back. Basically building it to do 3-4 rated intermediate trails.

Please let me know what ideas you have that would help me make this rig capable for moderate trails while still road worthy.

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[Pskhaat]

Since your in 'Junction, have you considered Alcan leaf springs instead of just blocking the rear? They make some really great springs for almost any application, and looks like you may eventually need the extra capacity?

And as an aside, welcome! I love GJT, home to one of my favorite wineries in the world, and if you look here, I believe it is the perfect US expedition home base

 

[SOAZ]

Find a pic of a "prerunner style" truck where they cut the bedside and angle it up so it comes to the very bottom of the tail light. Then remove the rear bumper and put a tube style rear bumper and it should greatly increase your ground clearance.
Let me know if you know what I'm talking about. If not I'll dig for a picture. :arabia:

 

[DaveInDenver]

I also have no interest in bobbing my bed and doing the trick that Tim mentioned doesn't solve the low hanging spare tire problem, either. So you might retain your bed size by trimming the fenders, but now you have to deal with finding a place for the spare. I just figure I'm going to drag and run a tube rear bumper that tends to hang up less. I also have lift springs and longer shackles to have a bit of a tail high stance. I dunno, I figure so what if I drag, I'm not rock crawling it and I can deal with an occasional obstacle. If it was day-in, day-out, might be different I guess.

 

[RockyMtnFamily]

Since your in 'Junction, have you considered Alcan leaf springs instead of just blocking the rear? They make some really great springs for almost any application, and looks like you may eventually need the extra capacity?

I plan on going with the blocks and shackles for now, but will upgrade to rear spring packs (possibly Downey Off-Road) in the next one to two years once I have a locker and sliders on the truck.

Thanks for the welcome! It was nice to find this site as this is the direction that I would like to go with my truck. I previously had a Nissan Hardbody 4x4 that I built my own camper shell for. It had a steel internal roll cage, basket luggage rack, tinted windows, wiring for a fan and 12 volt accessories and speaker wires all through the camper shell. It cost me around $500-600 to build it.

Kevin

 

[RockyMtnFamily]

I also have no interest in bobbing my bed and doing the trick that Tim mentioned doesn't solve the low hanging spare tire problem, either. So you might retain your bed size by trimming the fenders, but now you have to deal with finding a place for the spare. I just figure I'm going to drag and run a tube rear bumper that tends to hang up less. I also have lift springs and longer shackles to have a bit of a tail high stance. I dunno, I figure so what if I drag, I'm not rock crawling it and I can deal with an occasional obstacle. If it was day-in, day-out, might be different I guess.

I don't want to cut up the bed or bob it at this point, although that might be a good option down the road. Trimming the bottom lip after the wheels might be a good idea. I also have thought of re-routing the exhaust and building some sliders to protect that area.

Kevin

 

[DaveInDenver]

I also have thought of re-routing the exhaust and building some sliders to protect that area.

A friend of mine had mini sliders made for his FJ62, just to give you some ideas maybe.

 

[RockyMtnFamily]

Pictures

July 2006:

http://family.webshots.com/photo/2730050260062605357CLyphy

September 2007:

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h61/nbroady/Labor Day 2007/LaborDay2007-195.jpg

I ended up softening the torsion bars after I installed the spacers so the alignment could be dialed back in. I still have room for some 33x10.50 BFG's as far as I can tell, or some 12.50 wide tires if I decide to go with a small body lift.

I hope to install the dual battery system this winter as well as fabricate some rocker guards for it. If any one has some ideas for this let me know. I have thought about either angling the brackets up to tie into the frame or put a body lift on so I can tie straight into the frame.

Kevin

 

[adrenaline503]

Badland Bumpers www.badlandbumpers.com make rear bumpers that offer protection. I am having a set custom made for my Nissan Frontier.

 

[Willman]

Badland Bumpers www.badlandbumpers.com make rear bumpers that offer protection. I am having a set custom made for my Nissan Frontier.

Their are a few members here that have Jeff's bumpers and love them!

Good choice!

 

[taco chaser]

I plan on going with the blocks and shackles for now, but will upgrade to rear spring packs (possibly Downey Off-Road) in the next one to two years once I have a locker and sliders on the truck.

Thanks for the welcome! It was nice to find this site as this is the direction that I would like to go with my truck. I previously had a Nissan Hardbody 4x4 that I built my own camper shell for. It had a steel internal roll cage, basket luggage rack, tinted windows, wiring for a fan and 12 volt accessories and speaker wires all through the camper shell. It cost me around $500-600 to build it.

Kevin

Downey has a ton of great products, but my experience with there leaf springs wasn't good, they flatened out real fast and the fronts actually wraped on me, I don't think these will hold the weight very well unless they improved there springs, it has been about 5 yrs. since I ran them.

 

[kcowyo]

Kevin, welcome again...:beer:

Joel has started a write up on his sliders here. He's done some fun stuff to his T100.

With the spacers the 33x10.50's may still rub a little at full lock but not too bad in most situations. I know of one T100 owner who runs 33's with just the spacers, shackles and t-bars cranked a little. He rubs some but he's been running it without any problems for a year or two.

If you build a front bumper, you might add some larger torsion bars like the 25MM Sway-Away's to help with the additional weight. Seems like there some great shops in GJ should you need design or fabrication help. I like what I read and hear about the Aussie locker. Not sure how happy you'd be with a non-selectable locker in the snow of GJ, if it's your DD too.

I've been fortunate with the excessive tail of the T100, but I got bit in Moab last year and suffered an eyesore of a dinger.

Some pics for visuals and to get you thinking -

Pics #1, 2 & 3 - 33x10.50's on spacers and shackles
Pics #4, 5, 6 - custom front and rear bumpers with lower bed protection
Pics #&, 8, 9 - custom sliders
Pic #10 - one of my favorite T100's, currently on eBay with a BIN of $8900