T-Max dual battery system opinions?

[60Dan]

Was about to pull the trigger on a National Luna system from Equipt when I saw this for 1/2 the price

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002...ery+system&dpPl=1&dpID=41oVqb5sY3L&ref=plSrch

Anyone running this system?

Thanks

 

[DiploStrat]

Buy this and some wire of the proper gauge. Much better quality than most of the competition.

EDITED to ADD: My biggest complaint is that 6 AWG is awfully small wire.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C7CJH...ZGYFXJ69G4F0&ie=UTF8&qid=1474684865&sr=1&th=1

 

[fireball]

My t max setup has worked perfectly for 2.5 years now. I wish there was a manual disconnect button so that I could charge the batteries independently. The cruiser sits for extended periods and I pull the fuse between batteries to charge each individually.

 

[DiploStrat]

... I wish there was a manual disconnect button so that I could charge the batteries independently. The cruiser sits for extended periods and I pull the fuse between batteries to charge each individually.

Out of curiosity, why do you want to do that? One of the best aspects of my setup, which uses an intelligent relay, is that a charge applied to either battery is shared with the other. My truck sits for weeks during which time the solar array charges both the camper and starter battery.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

The biggest benefit of being able to disconnect batteries when vehicle is not running is in case one of the batteries goes bad. If a battery shorts internally it can pull the good battery down even when charging with solar. The solar charge can not provide enough amperage to overcome the loss. This is why I like the simple systems with just a DPDT switch and a high current continuous duty contactor. The system like from Painless Wiring works for those that feel they aren't proficient enough to build their own.
I built my own triple battery setup with 500 Amp Relays from here:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewcat.php?category_id=1031&from=701&filter_f_r_1205%5Bmin%5D=401&filter_f_r_1205%5Bmax%5D=500

Follow this diagram and instructions:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/5236599-post25.html

Yes when parked for extended periods of time as in months you would need a separate charger for each battery. Small trickle charges like Battery Minder or Battery Tender work well for this. They even have waterproof versions that can be permanently beside the battery. There are also small solar charges to do the same.

 

[60Dan]

Buy this and some wire of the proper gauge. Much better quality than most of the competition.

EDITED to ADD: My biggest complaint is that 6 AWG is awfully small wire.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C7CJH...ZGYFXJ69G4F0&ie=UTF8&qid=1474684865&sr=1&th=1

My t max setup has worked perfectly for 2.5 years now. I wish there was a manual disconnect button so that I could charge the batteries independently. The cruiser sits for extended periods and I pull the fuse between batteries to charge each individually.

Can you guys post pictures of your setups with these systems?

Thanks

 

[dwh]

The T-max in the OP link appears to be a big (250a) dumb solenoid with a computer brain added to control the solenoid.

Same with the BlueSea, but the smaller BlueSea is rated at 120a. BlueSea does make a larger one rated at 500a.

Both the smaller BlueSea and the T-max have override switches. The battery monitor is standard with the T-max, and optional with the BlueSea.

I can't seem to find a manual online for the T-max, so I don't know how it's programmed.

One of the main advantages of the BlueSea units, is that they are "dual sensing", which means that when they sense an elevated "charging voltage" on either side of the solenoid, they will energize the solenoid to tie the batteries so both get charged.

That can be disabled with the override switch to charge batteries separately if needed. If voltage falls too far the batteries are automatically disconnected. That can also be disabled by using the override switch to "force on", for instance while winching.

I doubt the T-max has the same programming as the BlueSea - it's probably simpler. But the T-max kit appears to include a few other bits.

I would go with a Samlex ACR-160, and some fat wire of my own choosing. At least #4. The Samlex is dual sensing, with the option to add your own override switch (not included), and LED indicator light (also not included).


But, for those who just want something simple amd easy to install that will charge a second battery with the engine running, the T-max kit will work.

 

[DiploStrat]

Can you guys post pictures of your setups with these systems?

Thanks

No photos, but wiring diagrams, etc. on my website: https://diplostrat.org

You can download from "Documents." There will be several updates for Overland Expo East in two weeks.

 

[60Dan]

Thanks for all the responses so far guys, sure appreciate it.

Another question (maybe I should start a new thread), but what 2nd battery brand are you all using?

Is there a dual purpose deep cycle that could also act as a starting battery?
Something that would be ideal for a fridge, winch, outlets etc but could also double up as an aid to jump start the main battery in an emergency?

Ive seen guys running the Optimas and the Group 31 Sears Platinums but don't know if there are better options

 

[DiploStrat]

Getting Deeper

Dan,

Couple of comments:

-- No reason why you can't use a deep cycle battery as a starter battery. It will have less power for its size and weight, but that is probably not an issue. Especially if you run a pair of 'em. (In which case you might not need an isolator.)

-- To your other question, I use Lifeline batteries but Trojan and others have an excellent reputation. I have no experience with Optimas; they have fans and detractors both.

YOUR issue is the charging voltage of your Toyota; it may be as low as 13.9v, in which case you will have a problem with most modern AGM deep cycle batteries which all want 14+v at 70F/20C. Odyssey batteries can call for as much as 14.7v at that temperature. Get a voltmeter and check it for yourself - don't trust me or anyone else.

You may need to raise your overall charging voltage (easy to do) or fit some form of battery to battery charger which boosts the voltage to the second battery (more expensive). If you choose the latter, consider the CTEK D250S/SmartPass combo which gives you the best of both worlds and a small MPPT controller for solar.

 

[TheGetLostTaco]

I have had the t-max for 3 years now and absolutely no issues. I think it is a solid buy.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Bcain]

I have had mine for almost 4 years and still works great. I have one starter battery and one deep cycle for all the added accessories (Bluesea). I also use two harbor freight solar tenders, one hooked to each battery. My K5 is a beach/camping truck so it does not get run regularly. Only complaint is two of my Starter battery level LEDs have burnt out. Happened after only one year but no more since. I have rhino lined my interior and put in vinyl seats so I literally hose out my truck after use- it is quite possible that I splashed or sprayed the controller with water and shorted them, IDK. Works great for me, I would buy it again over others for simplicity, durability and cost.

Brian

 

[ILIAN]

Dan,

Couple of comments:

-- No reason why you can't use a deep cycle battery as a starter battery. It will have less power for its size and weight, but that is probably not an issue. Especially if you run a pair of 'em. (In which case you might not need an isolator.)

-- To your other question, I use Lifeline batteries but Trojan and others have an excellent reputation. I have no experience with Optimas; they have fans and detractors both.

YOUR issue is the charging voltage of your Toyota; it may be as low as 13.9v, in which case you will have a problem with most modern AGM deep cycle batteries which all want 14+v at 70F/20C. Odyssey batteries can call for as much as 14.7v at that temperature. Get a voltmeter and check it for yourself - don't trust me or anyone else.

You may need to raise your overall charging voltage (easy to do) or fit some form of battery to battery charger which boosts the voltage to the second battery (more expensive). If you choose the latter, consider the CTEK D250S/SmartPass combo which gives you the best of both worlds and a small MPPT controller for solar.

How would I raise the overall charging voltage, I'm not aware of any alternators or voltage regulators with higher output voltage for my car.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

How would I raise the overall charging voltage, I'm not aware of any alternators or voltage regulators with higher output voltage for my car.

I don't have a link handy, but some of the Toy specialist shops have a wiring adapter that steps up the output voltage of the Toy alternator. Probably a small transformer between the the alt and the battery. Most modern vehicles have voltage controlled by the ECM, and it is not adjustable. Having said that, I have had a Northstar Grp 31 AGM in my Tundra for over a year with no discernible charging issues on a stock alternator.

 

[ILIAN]

I know the wire you're talking about. I will start playing with it. Fortunately my car's voltage is not controlled by the ECU. Thank you for explaining this.