Taco brakes, trailer brakes and FZJ80 questions...

mtnbike28

Expedition Leader
lol, hold on there Rotorgeek... I am not wanting to think that far out of the box. But I do not think I have ever read anyone's report of doing a rear disc conversion. I had a rear disk for my 40, but never got around to installing it. Always seemed like it would be odd to have front drum and rear disk ; )

I think I am going to order slotted rotors, Hawk pads and SS hoses. Then start researching a new axle for the trailer. One place told me I didn't want a 3k pound axle on such a light trailer.... I think I was looking at a 3.500 Drexel Axle and was told it was a bad idea, but don't think they could explain why.... thoughts?
 

Youngunner

Adventurer
I upgraded to hawk pads and powerslot rotors, a big improvement. I have already smoked the current set and warped the rotors. That was driver error because I was not in the lowest gear possible on a very steep downgrade for about a mile. We are talking about 25-30 degrees coming down from a radio tower on a mountain top. My truck is a heavy beast and when i start towing my trailer I will be upgrading to tundra brakes. I have a buddy who has done the swap on his '03 and added green stuff pads. He says it is amazing. As far as rear brakes, they do very little compared to the front and I believe it would be a waste of money and quite a headache.
 

Jeff Wanamog

Off Road Camper Guy
My .02

I have a 2010 4X4 LB DC and a 2003 V8 4Runner. I have replaced the front rotors with vented and drilled rotors with ceramic pads and S/S lines.
It made a huge difference in the truck, but that was due to the fact that the stocks brakes really really suck? But, with all the mods that are done to the Tacoma, it doesn't even come close to stopping with the 4Runner. A bone stock four wheel disk braked 4Runner.
When I used to build volkswagens and added four wheel disk brakes, we found that the proportioning valve is what made the system along with the right size master cylinder.

Jeff
 

p nut

butter
Just FYI, for those that are claiming cross-drilled/slotted/dimpled rotors are a good thing, my personal experience says they're a waste of money. Factory blanks are already vented and will do its job. Holes/slots won't do anything for fade. Think about it--why are people going to Tundra brakes? It's nearly the same diameter compared to stockers (for 16" wheeled versions and 4Runners, anyway). But it's a lot THICKER = more metal. Why shave that away with dimples/slots/holes? What you need are some good pads. The Hawk LTS pads are good, along with either Toyota OEM, Brembo or Autozone Duralast (not Valuecraft) BLANK rotors. I've worn many sets of Duralast rotors on the track and they've all held up just fine, even compared to expensive Wilwood, Stoptech rotors. Tundra brake upgrade may also be a good thing, especially if you're towing a lot.

If you are going to buy another vehicle to replace the Taco, though, I'd at least go 100-series. Or maybe diesel that 80. :D
 
t, with all the mods that are done to the Tacoma, it doesn't even come close to stopping with the 4Runner. A bone stock four wheel disk braked 4Runner.
When I used to build volkswagens and added four wheel disk brakes, we found that the proportioning valve is what made the system along with the right size master cylinder.

Jeff

I think those two ingredients are very key.
Think about it. It's not a complex system. Here's your system and the variables:

Master cylinder (bore diameter)
Proportioning valve (proportioning)
Brake lines (flexibility)
Calipers (piston size)
Pads (material, quality)
Rotors (material, quality)
Drums (quality)
Shoes (material, quality)

In the Jeep world (XJ's) .... where I earned my stripes..... the big issue is bore diameter on the master cylinder. Swap in a master cylinder from a Grand Cherokee and it's a whole new world. Here, it appears that the MC isn't the issue, its more the piston size and rotor.


Think about it--why are people going to Tundra brakes? It's nearly the same diameter compared to stockers (for 16" wheeled versions and 4Runners, anyway). But it's a lot THICKER = more metal. Why shave that away with dimples/slots/holes? What you need are some good pads. The Hawk LTS pads are good, along with either Toyota OEM, Brembo or Autozone Duralast (not Valuecraft) BLANK rotors. I've worn many sets of Duralast rotors on the track and they've all held up just fine, even compared to expensive Wilwood, Stoptech rotors. Tundra brake upgrade may also be a good thing, especially if you're towing a lot.
:D

What are the main differences between the Tundra and Tacoma calipers? Different piston sizes? Quantity?
 

mtnbike28

Expedition Leader
Thanks again for the feedback. I am still pricing out everything and deciding what to do. For the question, I am not planning to replace the Taco, the LC showed up at my brother's shop as a great deal, but he hasn't seen it yet. If it is decent, for the price, I don't think I would pass on it...
 

p nut

butter
What are the main differences between the Tundra and Tacoma calipers? Different piston sizes? Quantity?

Mainly, the Tundra calipers are wider to accommodate thicker rotors and larger pads. There are two types of Tundra brakes--2000-early 2003 (199mm, calipers stamped S13WE) and 03-06 (231mm, calipers S13WL). The latter is better suited for towing and was actually a TSB fix for the earlier versions (many early Tundra/Sequoia owners complained about brakes warping). If I were upgrading, I'd just go for the bigger of the two, as the cost is about the same either way.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
Mtnbike28:

I think you should go for the ultimate Tundras brake swap. Set your Tacoma on stands, pull off the wheels, roll them over to a Tundra and bolt them on. Instantly you will have Tundra brakes to stop better with, a V8 to tow better with, and better seating position for driving! Easy peasy fix IMO.




Seriously though, if keeping the Tacoma is to your liking: upgrade the brakes on the Tacoma - the easy route is the Hawk or EBC rotors (I have EBC on the Tundra - slotted no cross drilling) and a set of Hawk or EBC (Green stuff or Yellow stuff pads)

and install an axle with brakes on the trailer. Turned up on the brake controller, the truck and trailer together will stop as well as the truck by itself. I do find I have to turn down the brake controller when backing up though, but it sure makes mountain roads a much more confident affair.
 

Dirtytires

Explorer
Reading this thread reminds me of my Tacoma. I love it. I hav towed soem big trailers with is and have had no problems at all with braking.

The heaviest trailer I towed was a 1.5ton Military trailer that I picked up at Fort Meade and towed to a friends house down the way.
I had no problems at all And I did not have the airbrakes connected. I do think that if you are hauling anytingn over a small trailer that
the trailer should have electric brakes. Less wear and tear on the truck and the trailer tires.
 

mtnbike28

Expedition Leader
Another LC80 question and an update.
Can anyone confirm if the seats from a 1991 FJ80 fit using the same mounting holes in a 1994 FZJ80? I am picking up my LC this weekend and can drive 4 hours out of my way and get replacement seats. I am told the ones in my LC are trashed...

Update, On the Taco, I did the Hawk pads and recommended normal rotors from the same on-line source, after installing in no time at all (I was shocked) and bleeding the brakes, I was scared when I "bedded" them in.... no power at all. In fact, I re-bleed the brakes, but after they cooled (per instructions) they stop great. I have not towed yet, but the VA float trip is coming up!
 

mtnbike28

Expedition Leader
More on the 80 series, it sounds like I need a passenger front fender too.... has anyone tried switching a 91 onto a 94. So the question is will 1991 fenders and seats fit without modification into a 1994? I searched ih8mud, but I am not finding much help. Before I post the question there, I thought I would try here....
 

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