Tacoma - Budbuilt front skidplate

TEJASYOTA

Adventurer
First Bud Built rocks as a vendor!
Second, THANKS to REAPER & Mrs. Reaper for hosting the January 30th TTORA WAT / BBQ!!!

On to the install....

I had ordered a front skid plate, basically the last day of 2008....prior to the price increase.
It was getting delivered by Fed Ex.
Well, apparently FedEx, forgotten how to get to my home, so they called me.
I gave the directions and went back to working on my computer.
No more than 10 Min's later, I get a call from Bud!
He wanted to know if Fed Ex called to find my home....WOW!
Now that is ultra-rare for a owner calling to make sure my stuff made it here!
Major props to Bud for doing that!

Yeah, it's RED!!!
BudBuiltSkid01300912.jpg

One thing I noticed, that the camera could not pick up, is that the front of the skid plate has "BUD BUILT..." engraved. So cool.
If I can find some black metal paint, I think it would be great to out line it, so it would be more visible.

THANKS BUD!!!

*********

On to the install...well my old stock skid was partly off - missing bolts and barely hanging on.
I first undid the two mounting bolts that's attached to the steering rack.
Next I dry mounted the Bud Bracket (hey I made it up) to see how it would fit.

Note that the flange will be aiming towards the rear of the truck.

Well the left hand bolt aligned fine.
But the right hand bolt did not align...infact, the flange for the bracket that holds the steering rack was really tall and interfered the Bud Bracket from sitting flush.

BudBuiltSkid0130099.jpg


Well after getting on to Reaper's computer to view some other installs, I determined that my steering rack bracket was different than others and no one else mentioned it not fitting properly at that area.

SO...out come my Dremel tool.

A few minuets later...and one my dry fit....
BudBuiltSkid0130097.jpg


Perfect...a squirt of paint and a few more minuets of bolting down.
BudBuiltSkid0130093.jpg


Next was to mount the main Skid Plate.
I first mistakenly tried to mount it to my ARB....wrong hole pattern. :banghead:

I then realized it was to hook up to the front cross member that is really thin and not structurally sound.
A washer was placed under the head of the bolt and under the base of the nut.
The use of additional washers is to help spread out the forces of the assembly.
Basically sandwiching the sheet metal between.

It bolted up fine, as you can see.
BudBuiltSkid013009-115.jpg


Sometime in the future I plan to change out that factory piece with something more STOUT!

Continuing on the build....
I left the bolts loose, then headed to the rear and bolted up the remaining areas.
Only one threaded hole, I had to use the supplied bolt as a thread chaser.
With some WD-40 and constant easing in and out, the thread was saved - no cross threading or flattening of the thread. :D

Here is the final assembly with every thing bolted down....

BudBuiltSkid01300914.jpg


BudBuiltSkid013009.jpg


Thanks again to Bud Built for a well built skid plate and for Reaper for allowing us invade his home!

Oh yeah...I can not leave without this parting photo of Father and Son!
TTORAWAT13020094.jpg


One last thing, I have ordered the Belly Pan and Crossmember brace.
Should arrive this month, so stay tuned.
:victory:
 

mtnbike28

Expedition Leader
same service

I agree, Bud is great and has great service.

The tip I read somewhere that helped me a lot was using a floor jack to lift the skid plate in place to start the bolts, worked like a charm.

2 questions.
1. I notice you left off the ARB splash pan, the metal piece between the bumper and the weak mounting point on the front of the skid plate, is there a reason to use it? I left mine off, but only because it was 15 degrees when I re-installed mine.

2. Has anyone figured out a way to drain the oil without dropping the skid plate? I can get the drain plug out with it on, but can not reach up to clean the pan before reinstalling, or hand start the plug. I thought about the Fujimoto (sp?) drain plug, but again do not see a way to get my hand up there to open it.
 

Rexsname

Explorer
I made the hole into an oval about two diameters long. It allows the oil to drain out without splashing all over the pan. Then I drive to WalMart and let it drip dry :Wow1:


REX
 

TEJASYOTA

Adventurer
...The tip I read somewhere that helped me a lot was using a floor jack to lift the skid plate in place to start the bolts, worked like a charm.

2 questions.
1. I notice you left off the ARB splash pan, the metal piece between the bumper and the weak mounting point on the front of the skid plate, is there a reason to use it? I left mine off, but only because it was 15 degrees when I re-installed mine.

2. Has anyone figured out a way to drain the oil without dropping the skid plate? I can get the drain plug out with it on, but can not reach up to clean the pan before reinstalling, or hand start the plug. I thought about the Fujimoto (sp?) drain plug, but again do not see a way to get my hand up there to open it.

Yeah, I read about using the jack....I enlisted some of the guys that was there to help. :)
For the belly pan, I will use my assortment of jack stands.

Q1: I forgot to reinstall that small plate...going to do it this afternoon.

Q2: I think I will try Rexsname's suggestion of enlarging the hole.


I made the hole into an oval about two diameters long. It allows the oil to drain out without splashing all over the pan. Then I drive to WalMart and let it drip dry :Wow1:


REX

Drive to Walmart to dry....hahahaha :smiley_drive:
 

4RunAmok

Explorer
Well, I could never get the "bud" guy to call me back...

I am still without a good skid plate.

Also asked him about fab'ing a protection scheme for my catalytic converters. No response. I guess he can pick through who he wants to sell to and not.
 

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
Bud is a top notch dude, I've done quite a few of his full setups on FJC's and Tacomas. I run his full kit on my Tacoma, absolutely love it. :cool:
 

mtnbike28

Expedition Leader
no calls back

I am shocked he didn't return your calls.... most of mine I have had to "work" to get him off the phone and back to his work, he seems to really enjoy listening to what I wanted to do with my truck.... in fact he talked me out of the full belly pan and xfer case clocking for what I do...

Don't give up on him, call him again is a EST zone work day...

good luck, I love my skid plate.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I am shocked he didn't return your calls.
I dropped him an email once and he called back literally a minute later, on a Saturday to me at work. We talked for most of an hour. He is genuinely one of the best people within Yota circles, we are lucky to have him. So I'm really shocked, too.

I have his IFS skid and belly skid for my truck, Rubicon-tested!
 

TEJASYOTA

Adventurer
4RunAmok (love your account name)....I am suprised Bud did not contact you back within 24hrs...not like him.
If you still can not get him on Monday, let us know and I will start emailing, bud@budbuilt.com, or call him.
 
Last edited:

toy_tek

Adventurer
I had great service from Bud.

To assist with oil changes and leaving the skid on, try a Fram Sure Drain. It is a quick disconnect fitting in place of your regular drain plug. The tube threads on and opens the valve to drain. It works pretty well.

The only problem is the oil filter still leaves a huge mess in the skid.

I've gone back to removing the skid, since it only takes about 5 minutes with a jack. Use anti-seize on all the bolts, especially the two recessed hex heads.
 

TEJASYOTA

Adventurer
....To assist with oil changes and leaving the skid on, try a Fram Sure Drain. It is a quick disconnect fitting in place of your regular drain plug. The tube threads on and opens the valve to drain. It works pretty well.

The only problem is the oil filter still leaves a huge mess in the skid.....

THat Fram Sure Drain looks promising...need to look into it.

As for my oil filter...I have relocated it....it was my first mod to my Tacoma.
It currently resides on the wheel wall, just under the battery tray.
With the help of a plastic bag...very little to no spillage. :drool:
 

Terracoma

Adventurer
If the Fram product suits your fancy, I'd highly recommend one of the Fumoto drain valves, distributed through these guys. I believe the correct part number for the 3.4L is the F-103 or F-103N.

The (slow) flow leaves something to be desired, but I'm able to get my engine oil to full operating temperature and, with a pair of finger-padded gloves, flick open the valve and start draining immediately; no waiting to cool down. The F-103N has a hose nipple, so you can also route a piece of rubber fuel line directly into your favorite used oil container with no mess.



Any photos of the remote oil filter setup?
 

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