Tailbone

[foo.c]

I picked up this trailer over the weekend. It might look familiar, as it has build threads on here and several other forums.



There are some things I want to change, but first thing is going to be to attack the rust. I could see rust on the floor even in the original build thread, but given the thickness of steel used I wasn't worried about it.

This is the inside how it came.



I couldn't get the water tank out without grinding the strap off. I really didn't see the usefulness in it away to be honest, so I don't think it will be going back in. I'd rather have the space. So it went. I removed the water pump with a good pull. I'm surprised it hadn't fallen off.



I really debated keeping the fridge slide out, but I had a suspicion that it was hiding rust. Plus I wasn't thrilled with the location and I think it will be too small for the fridge I want anyway. My suspicion was confirmed.



After getting the angle iron brackets out I hit it with the wire wheel. I was thinking about sanding it down to clean metal, but I think it's just too much work. I'm going to pick up some POR-15 or equivalent. Hit it with the wire wheel again and paint over it with the POR-15.

Here it is now.

 

[Mark Harley]

Use a rust converter prime and then paint.
looks solid, is it just surface rust?

 

[foo.c]

Use a rust converter prime and then paint.
looks solid, is it just surface rust?

Very solid. This tub is custom built and all 1/8" steel. I think it weighs twice what a real M416 tub weighs.

I was at AutoZone this weekend and they have some Loctite rust converter and various bedliner kits. I think I may go with that as I won't have to order anything, and it should be durable.

 

[Mark Harley]

Great!

Peel the stickers, Spray it all black and get matching wheels!
Looks good!

 

[loren85022]

Starting from scratch is great. After a few runs, your needs will start dictating what if any enhancements are needed. Enjoy!

 

[foo.c]

I'm not having any success with the Loctite rust remover. It's not drying and not turning black like it says it does. It seems it needs a 100% rusty surface to really work from what I can find on the web, but I'm also on the low end of the temperature range it says to use in the directions.

I think I will try naval jelly (phosphoric acid) on a small spot and see if it will be less work than sanding. I'm tempted to just go get it sandblasted if I can find a place to do it for a reasonable price.

Maybe I'm overdoing it? Perhaps I should just hit it with rust primer and call it done?

 

[Nightfire]

Coving up rust is never as good as cleaning back to good metal. I'd get it blasted.

 

[foo.c]

Product testing

I finally got some results out of the Loctite spray stuff. The key is that it has to go on very thick, and it needs 3 coats about 20 minutes apart. It's still not drying though. You can see the rust is now kind of a purplish color in the lower left corner.



However, the naval jelly is really kicking its butt and might even be stripping off some of the old paint, which would be a plus. This was about 2 tablespoons of jelly. I might need another can or two to do the whole thing, but it's cheaper than the spray stuff.

 

[foo.c]

My Trailer Plan

My plans for the trailer:

Big Stuff:

1) Fix lid

I think all of the lid's strength is due to the thickness of the aluminum plate. I'm not sure the supports are doing anything, due to the fact that they are really individual pieces of square tubing riveted to the lid and not a solid piece. I can twist the lid and the support pieces move. In fact, you can see where something heavy was attached to the quickfists and the supports actually bent away from the lid.



I think for the original builder that was strong enough, but I am planning on running a big Eezi Awn 2200 tent. I figure roughly 850 lbs will need to be supported. Also I need another support bar in there.

I'm thinking of creating a support frame out of plywood and screwing the lid to that. I can do that myself fairly cheap. (I think.)

My other option would be to take it to a pro and have them fab up some stronger supports, and weld them in.

Either way I have a ton of rivets to drill out.

I also think there needs to be an interior lip to help keep dust and moisture out. Probably should use a bulb seal too instead of the weather stripping on there now.

Finally, I want a side opening lid. Works better with a RTT I think.

2) Change tailgate

I would like a side opening tailgate. My plan is to hang a kitchen similar to the Drifta kitchen from the tailgate.

I don't want all my stuff getting wet, so the new tailgate needs to seal better too.

Little Stuff:

1) Fix holes in the tub and lid. Depending on how much it would cost to weld the holes up I may just get some rubber stoppers. It doesn't have to cross the ocean, just a couple of creeks now and then.

2) Convert to JK wheels.

3) Restore handbrake functionality

The original owner removed the handbrake for the tongue box. I think I can raise the box up and forward some to get the brake back. Have to decide if I want a new axle with electric brakes first.

4) Convert to 7-pin harness so I can charge trailer batteries from the Jeep.

Another possibility is removing trailer electrical system all together and running 2 batteries in the Jeep.

5) Move taillights.

These are rockbait.

Long Term Stuff:

1) Spare tire hanger

I figure I can carry one in the trailer if I really want to for now, but it would be nice to have an extra spare mounted somewhere on the trailer.

2) Fender Skirt

Something that goes all the way around and could be used for mounted propane tanks or jerry cans, as well be handy steps. Protection from rocks too. Although the tub is so thick it doesn't really need it. Also might as well extend the fenders while I'm at it.

 

[foo.c]

I painted the inside of the tub today. I had some rattle cans laying around and it was super low humidity so I figured why not. I hit the inside with a paint remover disc, vacuumed it out, and did the naval jelly treatment again first. Not a pretty job, but no one will see it.

If the rust comes back it's off to the sandblaster.

 

[Mark Harley]

Is the aluminum frame under the lid skin nice enough to just have welded together and to the lid skin?

With a spool gun and a little time it would all stiffen up, Then you could add more bracing.

 

[foo.c]

Is the aluminum frame under the lid skin nice enough to just have welded together and to the lid skin?

With a spool gun and a little time it would all stiffen up, Then you could add more bracing.

I'm going to take it to a fab shop and get their opinion. I think with a new frame I can keep the lid, and it's worth having a pro do it if I go with a metal frame as I have no welding skills and wouldn't be confident in it.

 

[foo.c]

I came up with a quick fix for the lid. Basically a sheet of plywood on vertical 2x4's. This would transfer some of the load to the floor of the tub which is quite strong. Might not even need the plywood sheet now that I think about it.

A bit of a pain, but it would work for the short tem.

 

[foo.c]

Tongue Box Delete Day

Welp, I made up my mind about the tongue box. It's gone.

If/when I decide to run trailer batteries, it may go back on, but for now it offers a few advantages:

1) See below



I get total access to the rear storage area, and where the jack happens to be also, without having to drop or jackknife the trailer.

2) I get my brake back. I'm already tired of wheel chocks just from moving it around to work on.

3) I bet the trailer lost a good 65 lbs, although I'm not sure if it will tow the same without the extra tongue weight.

I also gave the inside another coat of primer just to even it out a little. I'm not going to topcoat it until enough time has passed to determine if the rust is going to come back.

Not a great job of painting, but it sure is a nice improvement compared to when I first pulled back the bed rug covering all the rust.



Also greased all the zerks I could see.

 

[foo.c]

Updates

My wheel adapters arrived so I am now sporting my Jeep's old wheels and tires on the trailer. They have a lot more backspacing than the TJ rims apparently because they don't stick out past the fenders as much.

While installing the adapters I noticed that the left side parking brake didn't hold much, and the right side hub could not be turned by hand with the brake off. So I did some searching and found the M416 manual from ih8mud and adjusted the brakes. They work great now, and with all the weight I have removed and the brake not dragging I can push the trailer up the driveway into my garage by hand without needing my jeep.

The other thing I have done is remove all the bolts that passed through the tub except those that hold the struts on. They had a purpose at one time I suppose, but now they are pointless. I'm having a welder fill all the holes next Saturday, and we're going to go over my ideas for this trailer. Young guy, but he's employed as a welder and is looking for side jobs on the weekend.

So, hopefully next Saturday I'll have a watertight tub with a coat of bedliner on the inside.