Take the gamble or run? Disco shopping ITT

d67u57

Adventurer
for the trannies...

manual , if youre good will last and last. but it gets old pretty fast when going in challenging terrain or stop n go traffic...

found a 96 manual,clean,no rust(very rare up here), but since i live in the city, i let it go.

of course it occurred to me after i got back that i couldve traded it for an auto....:violent-smiley-031:

especially since the guy was letting it go for peanuts dammit.
 

brianf408

Observer
Don't mean to bring the post back from the dead, but just when I gave up hope I looked at this truck. 2002 Disco 2, 105k miles, some body damage like the rear corner panel and front bumper but otherwise in decent shape. 5 seater, coils front and rear, tires a little low on tread. All the electrics work including heated seats, windows, climate control, etc. looks like the TB heater is leaking a little and the vibration under acceleration seems to be the front driveshaft needing rebuilt. No check engine light or 3 amigos, and my scan tool showed nothing as well. Looks like I can get it for just over $2k if I choose.

[*EDIT* Sorry no CDL on that one, was getting 2 different trucks confused, brain is scrambled from looking at so many.] May go take another look tomorrow and make an offer, everything else on the truck seemed pretty solid.

IMG_0093_zps5936d2cc.jpg

IMG_0095_zpscb9555ae.jpg

IMG_0097_zps75e55257.jpg
 
Last edited:

evilfij

Explorer
$400 for the driveshaft. Do it asap before it lets go and takes out the transmission. Looks pretty clean. Less of an issue on DII, but what kills DI and RRC around here is rust. I am not sure how bad your area is with salting, but that would be my main concern.

You need to move near me. People can't give away discos around here (mainly because there are so many available).
 

brianf408

Observer
Are you positive its got cdl?They do have a stick for 4high n 4 low.

You're right, I knew I had to be remembering something wrong. I did drive a different one with CDL around the same time as looking at this truck.

$400 for the driveshaft. Do it asap before it lets go and takes out the transmission. Looks pretty clean. Less of an issue on DII, but what kills DI and RRC around here is rust. I am not sure how bad your area is with salting, but that would be my main concern.

You need to move near me. People can't give away discos around here (mainly because there are so many available).

The driveshaft would definitely be priority #1. I'll probably rebuild it rather than replace it though. Rust didn't seem to be an issue on this one, we get a bit of salt on the roads in winter but nothing terrible.

People nearly giving away Rovers would be nice here, the next cheapest option to this Disco is a 96 with a ton of miles for $4k. Where in PA are you? I'm actually going to be in the Pittsburgh area most of the month of April for work, may have to hunt their local Craigslist if I don't buy a truck at home first.
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
Rebuilding the driveshaft is not advisable because the problem with the shaft is the non-greaseable CV joint. New shafts come built with all greasable fittings which eliminates the problem with the factory shafts. Rebuilding yours will just delay the inevitable.
 

evilfij

Explorer
I am outside philadelphia on the "main line." The dealer network here was very strong and a lot of them were sold new.
 

JK9K

New member
Rebuilding the driveshaft is not advisable because the problem with the shaft is the non-greaseable CV joint. New shafts come built with all greasable fittings which eliminates the problem with the factory shafts. Rebuilding yours will just delay the inevitable.

I think when most people rebuilding the shaft they use the greaseable CV joints. That is what I did. It is a pretty easy job with the right tools.
 

Viggen

Just here...
People nearly giving away Rovers would be nice here, the next cheapest option to this Disco is a 96 with a ton of miles for $4k. Where in PA are you? I'm actually going to be in the Pittsburgh area most of the month of April for work, may have to hunt their local Craigslist if I don't buy a truck at home first.

The market for LR is HUGE on the East Coast. They are for sale everywhere around here and many are around a grand. Expand your search and save yourself a little money. Go plug in an East Coast zip on Searchtempest.
 

yubert

Explorer
Regarding rebuilding a D2 driveshaft, seems like a lot of bogus info on here.

First, it shouldn't cost $400. I had one of my D2 front drive shaft rebuilt a few months ago for ~$163. That price included $127.63 for removing, re-installing and balancing the drive shaft. I supplied three (3) US-made PDQ u-joints. I got them for under $12/each. So the total cost was ~$163 and these are SoCal prices.

Second, you can replace the u-joints with either non-greasable (NG) or greasable u-joints. A lot of off-road racers actually prefer the NG u-joints because the seals are better and they replace the u-joints after the race.

Third, the centering ball is not need to be greasable. It's designed to last over 100K+ miles. My centering ball was in good shape so I didn't replace it but if I did, I could get a US-made part for around $33.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
187,432
Messages
2,894,509
Members
228,348
Latest member
Frank Design
Top