Teardrop Style Questions

[b63215b]

I have built a RTT trailer before, some of you have followed the thread and added some very awesome suggestions and kind words for the build. My wife and I after many nights camping are thinking that a teardrop style might suite our needs better.

We love the RTT but we do not like climbing up and down the ladder after a long day of activity and sore feet, and getting down in the morning is tough on the feet as well. It's also a PITA if it gets wet and having to pack it up wet. But that is our issue not a problem just getting older I want something a little easier to get in and out of. The trailer will be for sale soon on the forum. Now just to settle on a fair price to sell that will net enough to build the new trailer but also not to crazy so it will actually sell.

QUESTIONS OF NEW TEARDROP STYLE:

1) I have been following and looking at builds, seems as if most people are using 2x2 for the frame, is 2x3 overkill?
2) My biggest question right now is will building the body of the trailer out of 1x1 steel as the skeleton and sheeting with 1/2" birch going to be lighter than 3/4" birch plywood.
-that does bring up some issues using the steel Skelton I know

So far that is where I am at in the design process.

Can anyone give me pros or cons with 3/4 wall no frame versus 1/2 with wood frame versus 1/2 with 1x1 steel frame?

My goal is to keep this under 1500lbs and for I am almost positive and set on using Timbren Axleless Suspension. Queen bed, kitchen galley, tall enough to sit up in, etc.

Thanks for any help.

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[stomperxj]

2x2x.125 for a teardrop frame is fine unless you think it's going to be super heavy for some reason.

To try and answer your tube skeleton question I'll pose another: Why do you need the 1x1 skeleton?

A glued torsion box built from plywood is very strong using rabbet joints and dado joints. My Sawtooth XL body was incredibly stiff and it was 3/4" ply. My trailer was about 800lbs empty so your under 1500 goal is easily attainable.

 

[b63215b]

2x2x.125 for a teardrop frame is fine unless you think it's going to be super heavy for some reason.

To try and answer your tube skeleton question I'll pose another: Why do you need the 1x1 skeleton?

A glued torsion box built from plywood is very strong using rabbet joints and dado joints. My Sawtooth XL body was incredibly stiff and it was 3/4" ply. My trailer was about 800lbs empty so your under 1500 goal is easily attainable.

Thanks, only thought about using 1x1 because I'm more comfortable welding than doing woodwork. But in looking through your build I could learn.

A quick question is your side wall, was it 3/4 BBC that you routered out for your insulation? And was your inner wall just luann or something similar?

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[stomperxj]

Thanks, only thought about using 1x1 because I'm more comfortable welding than doing woodwork. But in looking through your build I could learn.

A quick question is your side wall, was it 3/4 BBC that you routered out for your insulation? And was your inner wall just luann or something similar?

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The routed pockets were put in for insulation but it ended up being a waste of time really. I wouldn't do it again. The inner panels were made from 1/4" birch ply and the side skin held the roof skin in place.

 

[b63215b]

The routed pockets were put in for insulation but it ended up being a waste of time really. I wouldn't do it again. The inner panels were made from 1/4" birch ply and the side skin held the roof skin in place.

So would you just sandwich a whole piece of insulation between the side wall and inner wall if you did it again?

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[stomperxj]

So would you just sandwich a whole piece of insulation between the side wall and inner wall if you did it again?

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If I did it again I wouldn't worry about insulation at all actually. MY wife and I spent a couple nights in low 30* temps on one of our trips and we were toasty warm and had the roof vent and windows cracked. Teardrops are such a small space that body heat keeps them pretty comfy. If you are used to sleeping in an RTT then a teardrop won't be bad at all.

If you are concerned about insulating it I would use 1/4" ply inside and out and stick frame it with 1x2's flat so you have 3/4" insulation.

 

[b63215b]

If I did it again I wouldn't worry about insulation at all actually. MY wife and I spent a couple nights in low 30* temps on one of our trips and we were toasty warm and had the roof vent and windows cracked. Teardrops are such a small space that body heat keeps them pretty comfy. If you are used to sleeping in an RTT then a teardrop won't be bad at all.

If you are concerned about insulating it I would use 1/4" ply inside and out and stick frame it with 1x2's flat so you have 3/4" insulation.

Sent you some more questions in a PM.

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[97kurt]

I have yet to weigh mine. But I did 2x2 .120 wall tube for the trailer frame. Walls were 3/4" plywood core with 1/4" outter and 1/8" inner. I routed out some areas and filled with insulation. If I could do it again, I would 1/8 inner/outer and use 1/2" for the center. Then route out more area for insulation to keep the weight down. I was new to wood working and over estimated what I would need for strength.

My build. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/149793-Offroad-teardrop-build

 

[FMF]

I used 3/4 plywood when I built my trailer. But unlike most we glued insulation to the wood and then carpeted over the insulation. It worked out well and helped save a few pound.

 

[b63215b]

I have yet to weigh mine. But I did 2x2 .120 wall tube for the trailer frame. Walls were 3/4" plywood core with 1/4" outter and 1/8" inner. I routed out some areas and filled with insulation. If I could do it again, I would 1/8 inner/outer and use 1/2" for the center. Then route out more area for insulation to keep the weight down. I was new to wood working and over estimated what I would need for strength.

My build. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/149793-Offroad-teardrop-build

Great build, thanks for the suggestions, what is the upside to .5" on the inside and .125" on the outside and interior rathar than just the .75" and a small inside laminate?

I have had numerous say insulation isnt needed but my wife and i love the idea of winter camping so it might make sense?

So if i understand this you would use .5" and cut out your windows and doors and insulation pockets, and line that with .125" on each side?

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[b63215b]

I used 3/4 plywood when I built my trailer. But unlike most we glued insulation to the wood and then carpeted over the insulation. It worked out well and helped save a few pound.
View attachment 361506
View attachment 361507

Cool idea, so you ran all your wiring in channels you made in the insulation? Can you show us pictures of the completed interior? Have you camped in thr cold with it yet?

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[b63215b]

Someone give me some insight on cooking. I am stuck between wanting extra space inside with wanting a galley for cooking. Is there a reason why i want a galley to cook versus just cooking outside under an awning? All this time of trailer camping we cooked under our awning.

I know a galley is nice, but i dont like the idea of no leg room above my feet, i like the idea of a pullout drawer system but i would need to add extra height to offset for that. I saw this online and was thinking of adding a steel framework for the drawers and then build my box above that, disregard the low ground clearnance mine wont be that low.

This is the build design i really like

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[azscotts]

I'll add my .02 from a newbie...

I really like the idea of a wood-framed cabin that is a solid sandwich construction with insulation between the walls. I myself am using 2 layers of 1/2" plywood to create the skeleton, skinning both sides of it with 1/4", and having insulation in between. I took the idea from a homebuilt trailer I saw on YouTube. Monocoque construction is pretty solid and something that I stand by from aircraft construction. Electrical runs are made easy with a router through the insulation and wood. After that a layer of fiberglass and micro and I'll have a smooth as glass exterior.

 

[FredSB]

never thought to use carpet to save weight in wood. would it still be strong?

 

[Louisd75]

Someone give me some insight on cooking. I am stuck between wanting extra space inside with wanting a galley for cooking. Is there a reason why i want a galley to cook versus just cooking outside under an awning? All this time of trailer camping we cooked under our awning.

I know a galley is nice, but i dont like the idea of no leg room above my feet,

This was an issue I ran into when drawing out my trailer. I found that for me to have the foot room that I wanted I would have to have the counter too high for my wife to comfortably cook off of. It's an uncomfortable height for me, but it's doable. I'm going for the foot room. I can cook from the counter if need be, but I'm planning on installing lift-off table supports on the sides and rear of the trailer at a comfortable working height. I'm making two tables with folding legs to drop onto the supports. The bracket mounting locations will let me set up the cooking/prep area on whichever side is convenient depending on the campsite.

Here's a link to the brackets:
http://www.dyersonline.com/ap-products-table-support.html

And here's an image of them in action (not my trailer)