Teaser

Toolman

Explorer
I may look into how I would do that to the sleeved sway bar disco..

The question still remains about the the angle of the springs in the bucket.. I would like to see a picture of them in there. Just curious if they are sitting straight or not.

I didn't realize that the sway bar was mounted to the frame still.. I guess the factory brackets are still used.. I have th UJOR kit which changes everything like an F350 with leafs. Much different.
 

dsw4x4

Adventurer
Sorry forgot to answer that question yes the do lean back slightly they still sit flush in the bucket due to the forgiving nature of the spring itself. There are no changes made to the bucket or the retaining clips on either end.
196.jpg
 

OBORG

Observer
spring brand

What brand of springs are u using ?
Looking good the long arms do make it ride even better.

Sorry forgot to answer that question yes the do lean back slightly they still sit flush in the bucket due to the forgiving nature of the spring itself. There are no changes made to the bucket or the retaining clips on either end.
196.jpg
 

OBORG

Observer
Black van

Do u have better photos of the black van in the back grown ?

Slowly working out all of the bugs, a little more testing and this system will be ready to sell to the public! 3.75 inches of lift firmer ride better handling and ride. 5 inches of up travel 4 of down travel, front axle moved forward 2 inches clears 37 inch tires with fender trimming 35s with out. Front links are 1/4 wall 2 inch od DOM with rebuildable/greasable johnny joints.
Links
IMG_1261.jpg


Full droop
IMG_1263.jpg


full compression
IMG_1262.jpg


Tweaked
197.jpg


Drooped
198.jpg


Compressed
199.jpg


194.jpg


Let me know what you think?
 

shawn_nj

Observer
Wow I know what I am going to be getting when my 36k warrenty expires...LOL!

Just awesome! How complicated is the install on a 1-10?
 

Toolman

Explorer
After looking very closely at the pictures of the arms... I must ask you , is that a nut welded to the end of the tubing ?
 

ktmsmith

New member
Wow I know what I am going to be getting when my 36k warrenty expires...LOL!

Just awesome! How complicated is the install on a 1-10?


X2....I have a 2010 Quigley and I am very interested in this too :victory: Especially your stage 3 ideas...
 

dsw4x4

Adventurer
I have not yet put one on anything newer than an 08 I do not think that anything is different but I would need to do some research to double check that. You do need to cut a clearance in the quigly bracket to make room for the larger joints but the kit will include the tool to do that. Other than that it is a bolt on kit.
No those are not nuts welded onto the tubing the are weld in bungs that are made for those joints and to slide into 1/4 wall 2 inch od tubing. I use the nicer ones that you can grab with a wrench so that you are sure to get the jam nuts good and tight. The cheaper ones are smooth and you have to use a pipe wrench on the tubing which seems like a half *** way of doing it. These arms are easily twice as strong as the quigly thin wall units.
Derek
 

blupaddler

Conspirator
So, how much work would be involved converting a leaf-sprung 1988 to this setup?
:drool::drool::drool::drool:


Need a donor vehicle?
:chef:
 

Sheep Shagger

Adventurer
I've just come back from Utah and am about sick of the Quigley suspension, I was wondering about this thread while I was getting beat-up on some trails, so glad it's been updated.
Couple of dumb questions.
If you are not lengthening the trackbar and pushing the axle forward 2". how is the axle now not offset to the drivers side?

I just replaced my trackbar and the bushings are tight as hell, I really don't think I could move one end of it 2". But I could well be wrong, just wondering about your trackbar bushings since they ware out quickly on Quigleys.

On the control arms, I know Quigley have gone through a few variations, my lower ones have kinks in them so they fit in the axle parallel, I take it that the eye bushings you are using allow for side to side movement and that's why your longer/lower control arm is not kinked. So, if that's true, it seems that Quigley designed the whole control arms to reduce and side to side movement and only allow up and down, since yours allow both, how will this take it's toll on the trackbar, since it seems the trackbar is now the only item stopping side to side axle movement?

But I do really like that the caster is now adjustable.
 

dsw4x4

Adventurer
Blue paddler,
Your in for a job converting that van, were are you located? That would not be the best bet for your application but I have some other ideas that would work better for you.
Sheep shagger, Yes lifting it with out lengthening the track bar does pull the axle to the driver side probably 1/2 inch or so. I seemed to be no big deal pushing it over for this RandD system when I come out with a complete system it will include a new track bar bent if necessary, most likely it will be straight with misalinement bushings. Mine is a 00 and the track bar is behind the axle. As you know the factory bushings are rubber and forgiving if you replaced them with poly they probably will not flex like the rubber ones but they will "pack out" quickly I know Quigly recommends them but I personally hate them and will not use them in 99% of the applications they build them for, rubber rides better flexs better and holds up to the elements better in my experiences.
Yes quigly has gone through several variations. I have never seen a set that only has kinks or bends in the lower links, all the ones I have seen are either all straight or all 4 kinked. I do not understand what you are trying to say on why yours are kinked, but the reason they are kinked is because it is easier and cheaper to manufacture and build arms that are bent with rubber bushings. Doing this allows them to put a straight notch in the pipe and weld the bushing housing at a 90 degree angle, easy and fast to bend notch and weld and use cheap bushings. I do not need the kink in the tube because I am using johnny joints that are designed to flex and ride at up to 30 degrees off center so there is no need to have that kink in the arm. Not only that kinks create weak spots, so when designing strength into anything you want to keep everything as straight as possible. Quiglys design has no affect on side to side movement, I think you are thinking of a triangulated four link system, Quiglys system is not triangulated and the van can not be operated with out the track bar because there would no way to track the front end. No the johnny joints have no side to side movement at all. This system does not change the geometry of the front end in that respect, the front end has the no more or less stability (with out the track bar) with my system than it has from quigly.
I hope that answer your question I am not sure I understood it correctly.
Derek
 

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