Telescoping Tent Trailer Rack with Scissor Jack Lift

[OcoeeG]

Hello ladies and gentlemen - First time posting here. I apologize if this has been discussed here before but I find forum searches sorely inadequate and Google didn't give me much either. So here we go.

I am building a 4x6 carry on trailer for my new to me CVT Rainer. I am going to be towing it with a Jeep Renegade until used car prices deflate a but and I can afford a Tacoma. So my goal it to make it pretty light. I also want the ability to raise and lower the tent platform. My plan as of now is to use the scissor jack in the middle method and jack it up, place some intermediate pins and then jack it up the rest of the way. I have seen all the actuators and what not, but I am trying to apply the K.I.S.S approach to this build. I will be using the 1.5" and 1.25" square tubing in a partial weld partial bolt on config. for the rack More on that later.

Before I get too far I would like to know the pros and cons of this lifting system. The good, bad and ugly.

Here is a sneak peak of my build, ignore the messy shop
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[NatersXJ6]

There is definitely a pro in the simplicity. You can use relatively cheap sliding tube with a lot of slop and loose pins and not worry much about binding.

It will take a few minutes to raise and lower but it should work out.

Slight con design consideration is to make sure whatever sub frame is actually holding the tent is rigid enough not to bend at the scissor lift point in the middle. It shouldn’t take much in terms of steel or thought to make it work.

 

[jwiereng]

Do you wish to raise it when you get to your camp? And have it low while in transit?

 

[OcoeeG]

Do you wish to raise it when you get to your camp? And have it low while in transit?

Exactly!

Naters - Thanks for your feedback!

 

[jwiereng]

Exactly!

Naters - Thanks for your feedback!

Would it work to use a low-ish position? I could imagine several advantages. You could use a shorter ladder, you could reach in to bed from the ground, making easier to get sleeping gear, clothes etc in and out, it would be more stable and you’d feel less rocking if your GF/wife tossed in the night, you would also catch and feel less wind.

You would be closer to the lions though, if you plan to camp in Africa. Or tigers if in Asia

 

[colorado matt]

it is my understanding that square tube and "sliding square tube " are 2 different things .... sliding tube is a bit more but may be worth it in the end .... something about the weld inside the tube being smoother or something blah blah blah ....Matt

 

[OcoeeG]

Well the CVT Rainier we have is the extended version and has the full annex. I think to use the annex to its full potential the tent probably has to be close to 6' high.
I do not want to be rolling around with a trailer that has 200+ lbs (tent 150 lbs, plus at least 50 lbs of rack) 6 feet in the air. Not behind a jeep renegade. Thus the desire to travel in the low position and camp in the raised position. That being said, the trailer will be fully functional in the lowered position and well. Kitchen and camp box will open from the side.

 

[OcoeeG]

it is my understanding that square tube and "sliding square tube " are 2 different things .... sliding tube is a bit more but may be worth it in the end .... something about the weld inside the tube being smoother or something blah blah blah ....Matt

The square tubing I bought at home depot, 1.5 and 1.25 inch square tubing nest perfectly inside one another. There is a LITTLE slop but not enough to be alarmed. And rather than using pins I am considering using bolts of the exact size for the holes to eliminate that slop. The trailer will also have stabilizing jacks for the tossing and turning.

 

[NatersXJ6]

it is my understanding that square tube and "sliding square tube " are 2 different things .... sliding tube is a bit more but may be worth it in the end .... something about the weld inside the tube being smoother or something blah blah blah ....Matt

This is true. I once had to remove the weld bead from inside of a 6’ long tube that I used for my telescopic trailer tongue. It wasn’t fun.

As far as your Home Depot tubing, I’m guessing you got the square profile punched/slotted tube like you use for shelving and other DIY projects? That isn’t what most people thing of when they talk about square tube, it is probably okay for your project, but there might be a few considerations in working with it.

In my experience, the tolerance on the punched hole distances can be sketchy, both hole to hole and starting the pattern from the end. You may want to check this or account for it as you build to avoid a single low corner or other rocking situation.

Your idea of getting closely sized bolts has risk. The tube is relatively thin (I believe 14 or 18 ga in most cases) and bolting it tight may crush the outer tube onto the inner over time. If you bolt it tight, I highly recommend large fender washers to spread the load wider than the sides of the tube so you don’t crush the center. You also need the “slop” to eliminate binding, although it will allow some wiggle.
Maybe consider raising the tent into the slop zone, inserting the pin, then lowering it back to the bottom of the pin hole so it loads everything tightly?

In either event, don’t use the grade 2 / ungraded HD bolts to hold up your tent. They basically have no product standard and trying to support your weight on them is asking for trouble in my opinion.

Post progress pics, eh?

 

[billiebob]

The square tubing I bought at home depot, 1.5 and 1.25 inch square tubing nest perfectly inside one another. There is a LITTLE slop but not enough to be alarmed. And rather than using pins I am considering using bolts of the exact size for the holes to eliminate that slop. The trailer will also have stabilizing jacks for the tossing and turning.

I think you are on track, but I'd use lynch pins, not sure how you would bolt it to eliminate the slop. My ladder rack is the same idea, the linch pins are soo fast and easy to use. The slop is not an issue.

.....

 

[OcoeeG]

@NatersXJ6 @billiebob
Thank you for the feedback. OK, you talked me out of the bolts, pins it is.

Naters I am indeed talking about the punched tubing. Yeah I was thinking it would be fine for my application. Thanks for the tip on the holes, I will make sure I check it!

More pictures to come.

 

[OcoeeG]

Been working LONG and hard on my trailer build. And I am getting close to tent install time. Just got my rack finished yesterday but it was too rainy to get the tent out of storage. Here it is! Will get a better pic and one of the rack deployed with tent ASAP.

More pictures and a write up to follow, STAY TUNED!

 

[jwiereng]

Please explain why you want to raise the sleeping platform when you arrive at camp. What advantages are there to a raised tent?

 

[OcoeeG]

Please explain why you want to raise the sleeping platform when you arrive at camp. What advantages are there to a raised tent?

Well the annex on my RTT needs to be about 6' high to function properly. That is the main reason. But I suppose if we are not going to use the annex it will not have to be raised all the way to 6'. The only other issue is the awning. I will eventually get a 270 awning that needs to be at about 6' if my 6' self is going to stand under it.

 

[NMBruce]

I am looking at doing a RTT lift also. Mine will be going on a wood box, but like you I will need to raise the RTT to hook up the annex otherwise I leave it low for easier in & out. I am thinking of a scissor jack type lift, so I will see what you come up with. I tam thinking my build on the lift is a month or so off.