Tell Me About 1999 LC's --UPDATE On Page 3
- Thread starter Nick B
- Start date
Nay
Observer
Yea, I think you are having a unique experience...the last thing I would be concerned about in buying a 100 is the rear axle.
Cackalak Han
Explorer
A/C is great, but make sure you get the rear A/C option.
locrwln
Expedition Leader
I do believe the front axle/diff is a time bomb. I watched a buddie who is the king of finesse wheeling, with the stock almost bald Michelins, climb out of a small stream crossing. The tires slipped on the mud/grass, caught and bye-bye went the front diff.
No rocks were involved, no hardcore wheeling prior to that, it was all Northern Nevada dirt roads.
My opinion, if you wheel a 98-99 at all, plan on the ARB for the front diff or you will learn how to pull the drive plates, front drive shaft and drive home with the cdl locked in rear wheel drive.:smiley_drive:
That is their only real weakness, unless you drive/wheel/use your rig like spressomon. :sombrero:
Jack
No rocks were involved, no hardcore wheeling prior to that, it was all Northern Nevada dirt roads.
My opinion, if you wheel a 98-99 at all, plan on the ARB for the front diff or you will learn how to pull the drive plates, front drive shaft and drive home with the cdl locked in rear wheel drive.:smiley_drive:
That is their only real weakness, unless you drive/wheel/use your rig like spressomon. :sombrero:
Jack
You should be concerned. I was present as Spresso's rear end went back together the last time. It isn't a friendly place. There is NO CHANCE for a field repair. People talk about the PIA of c-clip axles on earlier Land Cruisers. The 100 axle has no c-clips and is 100x harder and more expensive to service. Just to get to the bearing requires the destruction of the ABS sensor ring. Then a press is needed to refit a new bearing and ABS sensor ring. This is no issue for a street driven truck, but if it gets hard use, it will fail. Just one 12 mile trail we did recently had 53 water crossings each way. Unfortunately, a non-serviceable bearing has no place on a truck meant to go to the ends of the earth.
The oil seal for the axle is small and thin--I would take the rear seal on an FJ40/60 any day over this. It did almost look like you could fit 2 seals at a time. That might make things more palatable.
Anyway, I totally understand why Dan is looking to change out what he has for something you can fix on the run. I'm sure that whatever he comes up with will pave the way for everyone else.
ChuckB
Expedition Leader
From what I have seen/read here and on IH8MUD, Spressomon takes the 100 to its limits!
spressomon
Expedition Leader
Back in 2004 when I was going back and forth on whether to get a '96 or '97 80-Series or early model year 100. I ended up adding more overall value or purchasing decision points to the 100-Series decision with the 2UZFE V8. I knew I'd be pulling an off-road trailer of some kind and also I'm a V8 guy what can I say.
At that time, as recent as it sounds, there were only a couple guys that had pushed their 100's much beyond gravel/dirt trails.
So I knew full-on up front I was heading into somewhat uncharted territory. And fully aware I would, eventually, find the 100-Series platform limits/limitations. And that goal has been achieved :Wow1:.
I don't regret the decision nor do I regret buying and modding my '99: It has facilitated seeing some amazing country that 99.9% of Americans never get the opportunity to witness. But I do wish I had a bit more disposable income to make it the beast I want and need :coffeedrink:
Nay
Observer
I would agree that you have to build specifically for this type of use - there aren't many 100's that have been off pavement 53 times, must less 106 water crossings in one trip.
You guys should talk to Marlin and see if they'll come up with a heavy duty seal. With more 100's down in price and hitting the trails there could be a good market for it.
Then again, if $$$ isn't an issue a Currie high clearance RJ D60 would be a nice upgrade :smiley_drive:
Nay
Observer
Elaborate if you don't mind
You are on 35's, dual locked, but you have a rear axle that doesn't like excessive water crossings. That your only real issue besides wheeling a 3 ton pig like the rest of us :sombrero:?
I have dreams of building a later model hundy with a solid front axle conversion in a few years, but that's a lotto kind of project.
spressomon
Expedition Leader
Elaborate if you don't mind
You are on 35's, dual locked, but you have a rear axle that doesn't like excessive water crossings. That your only real issue besides wheeling a 3 ton pig like the rest of us :sombrero:?
I have dreams of building a later model hundy with a solid front axle conversion in a few years, but that's a lotto kind of project.
I actually like the overall performance of the IFS for my usage/application. But its just not durable enough and it lacks the wherewithal to get an honest 3-4" of lift without further compromise to handling and parts longevity issues.
And the SAS, per Christo, has to go 6" lift which is more than I need or want on a 112" wheelbase.
Therein lies the compromise. The rear is a much easier and less expensive fix (relatively).
spressomon
Expedition Leader
Nick, it surely looks nice. I would want to see a bunch of good photos of the undercarriage: Shocks, CV axles and boots, drive line, rear end, etc. to look for leaks and most importantly for surface rust. These things are great unless they've spent anytime at all in or around a rust state.
Mine came from New York and it was and still is, albeit to a lesser degree now that I've drilled out, tapped and/or replaced every bolt and nut (including capture nuts!) on the underside of the rig, a PITA due to the rust.
So just verify that before you commit.
And I have no idea whether or not that's a good price or not. Seems high...but it appears in great condition. Do you (through the dealer) know this one's history? How many owners? Where it spent its life? Complete/comprehensive service history?
And just know at 90,000 miles a somewhat major PM will be do and should be performed. That would be the timing belt primarily. Toyota has inspection of idler pulleys/bearings, water pump, etc. but I can tell you those parts should be replaced at the time the 90K is being done.
The CD players rarely seem to function much after 70-80K. Mine gave up at around 75k IIRC. No biggy as its not a very good receiver anyway...just so you are aware.
And, although this is my opinion and you asked, I'd not waste time/money/energy wondering whether to do the ARB front locker. There is a known documented issue with the front carrier not being rigid enough to keep the front diff from failing under even a semi-shock type load. Consider it an insurance policy you pre-pay good for as long as you, et al, own the rig. And if you need additional convincing you will spend considerably more when the unit fails; the 4.30 ratio R&P are difficult to come by and expensive from Toyota. If on the other hand you primarily are just using it on pavement and gravel roads you may be OK as is. For the record I didn't break mine...I just knew I was going to need the ARB locker where I planned to drive this rig.
Good luck,
Dan
Mine came from New York and it was and still is, albeit to a lesser degree now that I've drilled out, tapped and/or replaced every bolt and nut (including capture nuts!) on the underside of the rig, a PITA due to the rust.
So just verify that before you commit.
And I have no idea whether or not that's a good price or not. Seems high...but it appears in great condition. Do you (through the dealer) know this one's history? How many owners? Where it spent its life? Complete/comprehensive service history?
And just know at 90,000 miles a somewhat major PM will be do and should be performed. That would be the timing belt primarily. Toyota has inspection of idler pulleys/bearings, water pump, etc. but I can tell you those parts should be replaced at the time the 90K is being done.
The CD players rarely seem to function much after 70-80K. Mine gave up at around 75k IIRC. No biggy as its not a very good receiver anyway...just so you are aware.
And, although this is my opinion and you asked, I'd not waste time/money/energy wondering whether to do the ARB front locker. There is a known documented issue with the front carrier not being rigid enough to keep the front diff from failing under even a semi-shock type load. Consider it an insurance policy you pre-pay good for as long as you, et al, own the rig. And if you need additional convincing you will spend considerably more when the unit fails; the 4.30 ratio R&P are difficult to come by and expensive from Toyota. If on the other hand you primarily are just using it on pavement and gravel roads you may be OK as is. For the record I didn't break mine...I just knew I was going to need the ARB locker where I planned to drive this rig.
Good luck,
Dan
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Nay
Observer
Makes sense - it's too bad the 100 SAS is so difficult/expensive. Makes you :drool: for those 105's we can't get here...
Dan: Thanks for looking . The truck was purchased new here in south Fl and from the records it stayed here . The underside is rust free but the outside of the oil pan is covered in oil .Something is leaking badly .
Also whoever buffed it did a lousy job and burned off paint on some of the edges .
The inside looks ok for its age . The fake wood trim looks to be de-laminating .
From what I saw 11 or 12 grand would be more like it .