Testing an ARB fridge, is it cooling properly?

cobound

Adventurer
This might be a bit long, but if you have any experience in this area please let me know what I can do to remedy my chilling issue (my perceived issue, perhaps). Thanks in advance for any helpful and/or constructive comments!

After a lot of research and careful consideration, I recently purchased an ARB Fridge/Freezer - 52qt. I’ve been communicating w/ an ARB tech rep, he has been good to respond in a timely manner, just not sure I’m comfortable w/ dragging it on if it should just be replaced (I'm leaving for a 2,500 mile trip shortly and don't want to be waiting for a replacement in the mail).

I don't believe the fridge cools down to proper temps. I first plugged it into my vehicle (has a 10ga wire setup, 15 amp fuse and a Marinco locking plug) and set the protection to high and temp to 45*, it ran for a few minutes and my red 'check' like came on the face of the fridge. I looked at the troubleshooting info and it said I may have a weak battery. I checked my vehicle battery and it load tested fine. I unplugged it, reset it, it ran for no more than a minute and the red light came back on...not solid, but blinking every couple of seconds. He agreed my wiring was sufficient but recommended I use the medium protection and not the high, I’ll try that later, on to testing it in the house.

I then took it inside my house, plugged it into the home outlet, set it to 37* and placed two thermometers in it; one in the bottom basket and one in the top area. The two thermometers were placed in water, the water temp was at 110* when I placed it in the fridge, checked 2 hours later it was only down to 70*. I let it stand over night and it was only at 46* after several more hours of cooling. I thought these temps should be closer to the preferred setting w/in 30 minutes to an hour, at the very least.

Then, after having it plugged in for over 12 hours the thermometers I have in there both read 46*...with the temp gauge set at 37*. I do notice the face gauge bounces between 35-39* throughout the evening but the internal temp read just 46*.

He recommended I turn it down more:

“turn the fridge colder. I've used these extensively over the past couple of years and find that the ideal setting for refrigeration is 30-32 degrees. The sensor for the temp is in the middle of the floor of the fridge, essentially the coldest spot which makes it difficult to correlate with a second temp gauge due to the position. If you set it near 30 you will find have a safe temp range throughout the cabin without actually freezing your food. At 37 the top of the cabinet could be several degrees warmer, combined with different calibrations (and locations) of the various gauges easily explaining the differing numbers you're seeing here.”

I have also been told that it is more efficient when full so I placed enough stuff in the fridge to consider it fully packed w/out over filling it (soda, fridge goods and even a few small ice packs), turned it down to 31*, it has been bouncing between 29-33* throughout the night. It has been on now for over 40 hours and my thermometer is sitting at 40*. So, it has come down about 6 more degrees but not what I'd consider reasonable, since that wouldn't suffice to keep things where they should be during refrigeration on a trip as things are removed from it (potentially freezing what is left, right?).

My thermometer in the basket is sitting at 4" above the floor, centered...the one in the upper portion is centered and reads 44*, just 2* cooler than previous temp setting.

While to the touch the contents feel cool, I drank a soda after it had sat in there for over 12 hours and it certainly wasn't cold enough to say that it would be acceptable had it been a beer after a long hot day at the end of a journey.

I have not tested again in my vehicle yet, I will do that once I'm comfortable knowing that the temp is where it should be in the house first. I just don't know that setting it at 31* and having a temp at 40* inside is acceptable. And I don't think turning it down, again, any lower is the answer.

What am I missing here? I don't believe it should be this difficult to get it to proper temp. And I even thought my thermometers could be off some, but they are good from -40* to 160* and each measures the same temp while inside. I find it hard to believe both could be wrong yet read the same.

Anyway, what more can I do to feel comfortable that my contents are being properly chilled?

Lastly, am I overreacting and this is actually within tolerance and I’m getting worked up over nothing? I just dropped good coin on this, I want to know that I’m not paranoid ;)

Thanks for reading all that!!!

B
 

pods8

Explorer
On the powering issue in the vehicle: I'd double check it in another vehicle and with the engine running to rule out your own setup. It sounds like it should be sufficient but more often than not when people start saying they're having this kind off issue with these fridges (any manufacturer, not just ARB) it usually comes down to the user's setup and not a manufacturer's issue. That said there is always a chance...

The cooling issue, things to keep in mind: Unless you're dealing with calibrated thermometers they can be a few degrees of tolerance (just because they both read the same doesn't mean they aren't both off by a similar tolerance) so that amount the other issues can add up. Also by that extension the ARB one could be off similarly, if they are off in opposite directions you get a bigger discrepancy.

Secondly these fridges don't have fans moving the air around in them so they are going to inherently take time for the cooling to go from the chilled walls, to the air, to the contents of the cooler. Also there are going to be some efficency losses in the process so with the temp sensor at the bottom of the floor it doesn't surprise me if that is reading a few degrees cooler that some of your contents higher up. Some folks use a small battery powered fan in fridges like this to improve uniform cooling. (You see similar issues if you load water jugs into an empty chest freezer w/o a fan in it, it often takes a couple days to freeze them solid if your just relying on passive air to do the heat transfer).

So in regards to the above items my personal take is learn what temperature setting in the display results in the cabinet temperature you find desirable. Not really any different than the other fridges that just use an analogue dial for the temperature setting, you find what temperature setting you like. So if you have to set the digital temperature to 25F to produce the beer temperature you like then so be it, you're the one who will be up close and personal with this fridge and will know it's ideal settings after a couple uses.

The bouncing temps part sounds odd though, I just got one of these fridges last week and have been running it for 6 days in my camper now with it set to 32F, I've looked at it to take readings 2 or 3 times every day and every time it has either read 31F or 32F...
 

cobound

Adventurer
Awesome...I just wanted to hear it from someone else, not just the ARB rep getting paid to dish out ways to keep from having to replace something.

I was figuring I might just have to test it to my needs/liking.

Thanx again for reading all that, and replying!

B
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
Mine is always warmer than the display indicates - usually by a 4 - 5 degrees. My display also jumps around a lot, too. I set it at 32*, and it will swing as low as 27*, and as high as 36*.

As for the low voltage fault - I fought with that as well. To make a long story short - it turned out to be a poor connection between the 'fridge power cable and my extension cord.

Props to Martyn @ Adventure Trailers for suggesting I put a Doc Watson power analyzer on it to see what was really going on. Even though I didn't buy any of the components from them, he was willing to help me work through the problem. :)
 

ssssnake529

Explorer
My ARB fridge is always significantly warmer than the temperature gauge indicates. In order to get it to stay at a normal refrigerator temperature, I have to set the target temperature at below freezing. It's not a case of simply taking time to reach the operating temperature, it's a case of an overly optimistic thermometer. I've found that if I set the fridge to about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, that my food stays cold but not frozen. I've never tried to use the fridge as a freezer, so I have no idea how low I would need to set it to actually freeze anything.
 

cobound

Adventurer
Guess I was naive to think it would just get plugged in, temp set and go. After turning it down to 32* I did notice some condensation build up...but nothing frozen.

I won't ever use this as a freezer, only as a fridge. I'll have to toss in some good beers tonight, get them chilled and do a temp flavor taste test tomorrow night :beer:

B
 

Utah KJ

Free State of Florida
I had the opportunity to try out a new ARB fridge (the one that looks like an ATM machine) from Cruiser Outfitters two weekends ago when I did 4 days in the MOAB desert; the one I had was larger than yours. Kurt advised me to set the fridge at 20 degrees to keep cold and 0 degrees to freeze. My 4Runner didn't have a 2nd batt or a constant socket in the back so I wired one in (std 12V socket). I ran 12 awg wire directly to my primary (and only) batt and set the protection on high which Kurt recommended.
When I got the fridge home, I plugged it in to pre-chill it and set the temp to 20. Within 15 mins, the temp gauge displayed 20 but I did not verify it with another thermometer. I packed the fridge full of room temp PowerAides and almost immediately, the panel displayed 70 deg and I did not see the 20 deg display for the rest of the night.
The next AM, it was time to go and the display read 20 deg; I loaded the fridge and plugged it in to 12V. About 2 hrs down the road, we stopped to top off the tank and take a restroom break. I checked the fridge; the diplay still showed 20 deg and the PowerAide bottles on the top were very cold and the ones on the bottom where frozen. I grabbed two frozen ones and enjoyed slushies for the rest of the ride.
The fridge performed great in the 100 deg weather and I never saw the protection light come on. I recommend wiring the socket (power and ground) directly to your battery. Since it seems that I was getting better perfomance with less wire I think either you have high resistence at your connection points or your battery really is in the toast... if you have an Optima, both can be a possibility.
 

cobound

Adventurer
I did run a dedicated 10ga line from the battery to the back of my vehicle, with a 15 amp fuse block and a Marinco locking plug. I don't have an issue w/ that...but I will most likely switch from a Red to a Yellow Top Optima for draw down protection; eventually.

The problem I have immediately is the temp. Sounds like it needs to be set low tho. Wasn't expecting that, not after having read all the positive reviews over the net on it. But I'll be moving the temp lower, putting it in my Jeep and seeing what happens.

Thanx,

B
 

PV Hiker

Observer
I have a 62qt ARB and set temp to 28 degrees and inside temps run 31-34 degrees. On your DC check your ground. You may show good voltage but under the load could fail because of the ground is bad.
 

Utah KJ

Free State of Florida
Funny how I guessed Optima though... Yellow top won't fix the problem... it's still Optima. I recommend running ground directly to the batt. Ground is the easiest connection most people get wrong.
 

PV Hiker

Observer
You never know but check to make sure your positive wire on your plug side matches the positive wire on the ARB side. That might be the cause of the red light and shutdown. I have a 120 volt plug in the garage and the wires are reversed and runs power to stuff ok but the ARB unit will show red and not work on that outlet.
 

cobound

Adventurer
That could be...but I've never had any issues w/ my Optima, and I've had them in several vehicles. It load tests fine, runs a winch w/out problems...etc.

Anyway, I am looking into other marine type batteries..this is getting expensive, but what's new :safari-rig:

B
 

Xterabl

Adventurer
FYI I have an Edgestar 43Q, connected (both pos & neg) with ~12 feet each way with 10 gauge wire to an aging Optima yellowtop (about 5 years old and probably discharged a handful of times). The battery is a dedicated auxillary battery that runs nothing else when the truck is parked. After a full charge, and while sitting parked in my driveway, the battery will power the fridge (filled to ~25% capacity) in the back of my Xterra for about 30-40 hours in an ambient temp. environment consisting of 55-60 deg. overnight low and 75-80 deg. daytime high temp before the low-voltage shut-off protection kicks in (leaving me with around 11.2 questionable volts at the battery, IIRC).


EDIT: ****OOOPS, sorry, I thought this was another Edgestar cooling problem thread!!!!!
 
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