TexasSixSeven F-350 build

[plainjaneFJC]

I run the 285-75-18, its 34.8 tall x 11.3 wide on my 2017 F350. I wouldn't want a tire any wider, I've had no handling problems. Toyo open country A/T II's in the Extreme version, they are loud, I will not be buying them again.

 

[b9ev]

Interesting, really haven't given it much thought but I really have enjoyed my Toyo MT and RTs in 37x13.50. Braking, turning, wet pavement acceleration are all better than the BFG AT on my Tacoma in 265 width. Comparing apples and oranges, I know.

I run the 285-75-18, its 34.8 tall x 11.3 wide on my 2017 F350. I wouldn't want a tire any wider, I've had no handling problems. Toyo open country A/T II's in the Extreme version, they are loud, I will not be buying them again.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

Do 11.50" wide tires have the grip needed on highway for braking, handling, etc?

Factory tires are something like 10.8" wide. An 11.50 will have a bit more bite to them, and still help alleviate some of the rubbing that a 12.50 would have.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

The other thing too, is that a truck as big and heavy as a one ton diesel (probably 8000+lb's?) with that ****ty of a break over angle needs all the tire you can get. I think i'd take a bit of rubbing at full compression in exchange for more clearance.

As it sits with both tanks full of diesel it's right around 8700 lbs. You're thinking about the same as myself.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

Like I said guys, to each his own, I just prefer more than 2-2.5" for 37's. There are plenty of guys here running 37's on that size lift, the majority will never even see a dirt load let alone real off-road use and in that case the lift really doesn't matter. I like the look of 37's on a short lift and even on factory wheels, I have just found that for my application, a larger lift will be better. YMMV and that's ok.

If I intended to wheel this seriously then I'd absolutely consider a larger lift. I did about 400 miles of forest service roads two weeks ago, and skipped the last 80 miles I'd have liked to have done. The limiting factor at that time was my trailer, which will most likely be getting a shackle flip soon. The truck will see a good bit of sand, some wet clay, and lots of forest roads. For anything more serious the toys come out to play.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

Since the last time I’ve posted I’ve done a bit more than planned. Or at least ordered.

I added some Baja Designs S2 combo lights to my front bumper to replace the factory fogs. These are a drastic improvement in low and wide visibility. I’ve got another pair of Baja Designs Squadron pod scene lights sitting on my shelf, and not sure if I’ll use them or not. I’ve wired my 40 gal aux tank into my upfitter switches, and have added a Fill Rite 15 GPM pump to it. Last night I ordered a set of 37x12.50-20 Toyo RTs as well. I keep going back and forth between what to do to gain additional clearance. Part of me says all the clearance you can get, but then I couldn’t fit in my garage. I’ll probably still end up in the 2-2.5” level range for the time being with Fox 2.0s.

In the meantime I need to put the brakes to this project as I have a wedding to fund.

 

[BigDaveZJ]

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the RTT rack. I'll be looking at doing the same thing in my '18 that I'll be ordering soon. Mine will need to pretty easy to remove though as I also pull a gooseneck trailer.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the RTT rack. I'll be looking at doing the same thing in my '18 that I'll be ordering soon. Mine will need to pretty easy to remove though as I also pull a gooseneck trailer.

I pull a loaded lowboy gooseneck pretty often myself, so ease of removal will be absolutely necessary. I’m thinking of fabbing up a mid height bed rack in the next month or two to try out, then make a refined version later next year. After I figure out what changes I’d like.

 

[Betarocker]

My brother has a lifting system on the ceiling of his garage. Backs in underneath, hooks up the lifting points and undoes the mounting fasteners and then raises the RTT and drives out.

 

[SexyExy]

I pull a loaded lowboy gooseneck pretty often myself, so ease of removal will be absolutely necessary. I’m thinking of fabbing up a mid height bed rack in the next month or two to try out, then make a refined version later next year. After I figure out what changes I’d like.

I can tell you this regarding the 35" vs 37" question....on my mildly warmed over 6.0 Excursion with 4.56 gears, running 35" tires the truck feels like a sports car and stops on a dime (as much as an Excursion can). Going up to 37" tires totally changes the feel of the truck, it is more sluggish and you have to give yourself way more room for hard braking situations when cruising at high speeds.

I run 37's because 35's look so small for a 6" lifted Excursion (call me vain).....but for heavy towing 35's are the way to go. For overlanding the limiting factor is the trucks size, not the 2" difference in tire size. Just my experience.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

I can tell you this regarding the 35" vs 37" question....on my mildly warmed over 6.0 Excursion with 4.56 gears, running 35" tires the truck feels like a sports car and stops on a dime (as much as an Excursion can). Going up to 37" tires totally changes the feel of the truck, it is more sluggish and you have to give yourself way more room for hard braking situations when cruising at high speeds.

I run 37's because 35's look so small for a 6" lifted Excursion (call me vain).....but for heavy towing 35's are the way to go. For overlanding the limiting factor is the trucks size, not the 2" difference in tire size. Just my experience.

Not worried about stopping or acceleration. The truck has plenty of power, the factory tires are 34.5”, and I will be deleting/tuning it soon enough. Between the factory brakes, exhaust brake, and trailer brakes I can shut the truck down pretty quick. I’ve driven a 17’ on 37s already, and while there was a little difference in driveability it was very minor.

Being that the truck is a long bed I’d prefer the additional clearance they offer. I’m more concerned with breakover angle than I am fitting in tight spaces. Plus they just look much better IMO. The only real downside I see is the decrease in fuel mileage, but I’m willing to live with that.

 

[Betarocker]

The 2015 model went to even larger brakes from past coil sprung models, and making use of the exhaust brake and a manual downshift slows the truck in a hurry. Even with my 38" tires.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

It’s been a while since I’ve updated this. Since my last post I’ve slowed it down a bit, but have done two large mods. First I mounted the 37x12.50 Toyo RTs. I had ordered a 2” BDS level for it, and had the tires mounted a few days early with the intent of leveling it that weekend. Well I really enjoyed the way the truck drove and rode without the level, plus I still had a slight bit of clearance to fit my truck in the garage. 1/2” to be exact. The level would have taken it away, and left my truck to be an outside vehicle. So I scratched that plan, but held on to the level in case I changed my mind. I didn’t. Currently have about 8k miles on my RTs and they’ve been excellent. Only very minor rubbing at full lock, and on the sway bar. Non issue. I’ve compressed these, or tried to, extensively to see what kind of issues I would have. The rubbing is only very slightly worse, and is still a non issue. I think it’s going to remain with factory configuration.

The other mod I’ve done recently is an EGR and DPF delete. Just recently completed this, due to a crazy hectic schedule haven’t had any time to put miles on it yet. Hoping to regain 2-3 mpg lost from the tires. Current MPG is around 13.5-14 on the highway, and 12-12.5 in town. Acceleration and breaking has been a non issue with the tires before the delete, but the truck should see a significant increase in acceleration. Breaking will remain excellent.

I’m about to begin fabbing up a bed rack system. Having a local fabricator bend 3 hoops for me, then I’ll do the rest. I have everything I need, except a pipe bender. Figured it would be cheaper to just sub that out, then mess with it for a one time use. I’ll post more on that as time goes.

 

[plainjaneFJC]

It's been a while since I've updated this. Since my last post I've slowed it down a bit, but have done two large mods. First I mounted the 37x12.50 Toyo RTs. I had ordered a 2” BDS level for it, and had the tires mounted a few days early with the intent of leveling it that weekend. Well I really enjoyed the way the truck drove and rode without the level, plus I still had a slight bit of clearance to fit my truck in the garage. 1/2” to be exact. The level would have taken it away, and left my truck to be an outside vehicle. So I scratched that plan, but held on to the level in case I changed my mind. I didn't. Currently have about 8k miles on my RTs and they've been excellent. Only very minor rubbing at full lock, and on the sway bar. Non issue. I've compressed these, or tried to, extensively to see what kind of issues I would have. The rubbing is only very slightly worse, and is still a non issue. I think it's going to remain with factory configuration.

The other mod I've done recently is an EGR and DPF delete. Just recently completed this, due to a crazy hectic schedule haven't had any time to put miles on it yet. Hoping to regain 2-3 mpg lost from the tires. Current MPG is around 13.5-14 on the highway, and 12-12.5 in town. Acceleration and breaking has been a non issue with the tires before the delete, but the truck should see a significant increase in acceleration. Breaking will remain excellent.

I'm about to begin fabbing up a bed rack system. Having a local fabricator bend 3 hoops for me, then I'll do the rest. I have everything I need, except a pipe bender. Figured it would be cheaper to just sub that out, then mess with it for a one time use. I'll post more on that as time goes.

Any more details on the delete? What products used, etc?

 

[TexasSixSeven]

No Limit EGR full delete, Flo Pro 4” delete pipe, as EZ Lynk with PPEI support pack for the tune with SOTF switch.

Nothing too crazy. Set me back about $1700 for that, with the majority going to the EZ Lynk tuner. $1300 for it.