Flazer
Observer
Yes, I was in the process of replacing the bleeder. I'm thinking it's a shot axle seal at the moment.
The 87 Bronco adventure rig build - El Chucho - Closed/Sold
- Thread starter Flazer
- Start date
Yes, I was in the process of replacing the bleeder. I'm thinking it's a shot axle seal at the moment.
MikeBoyle
Observer
Unfortunately this is a common issue with the 8.8 Ford axle. Be prepared to replace the axle bearing and the axle shaft as well. The leak typically occurs when the bearing wears through the hardening on the axle shaft and starts "cutting" a groove into it allowing the axle shaft to shift in the housing creating the leak. They do make a offset bearing/seal (called a bearing saver) that works as an acceptable temporary repair if you just want to get it back on the road for now.
kraven
Hegelian Scum
Timken bearings and national seals- worth the extra 10 bucks or so over the cheap junk. The axles are cheap, and you might find some sitting in a junkyard, unmolested, for a song.
Nice Bronco. Had one of those in an earlier year model with the 300/granny/manual t case, quad shocks, and 33's. Fun little truck that only did 75 mph wfo. Really useful box of fun. The 5 liter/AOD is a good combo though.
Nice Bronco. Had one of those in an earlier year model with the 300/granny/manual t case, quad shocks, and 33's. Fun little truck that only did 75 mph wfo. Really useful box of fun. The 5 liter/AOD is a good combo though.
Flazer
Observer
Thanks, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has the whole shebang for $175, which is better than the price from autozone. I think I'll open it up and see how badly they are worn. May look into the offset seal/bearing package because a 9" may be in line down the road with my goals.
Something like this: http://shop.broncograveyard.com/88-Rear-Wheel-Repair-Package-Bearing/productinfo/32365/
Something like this: http://shop.broncograveyard.com/88-Rear-Wheel-Repair-Package-Bearing/productinfo/32365/
Flazer
Observer
Well, I ended ordering the Timken offset seals bearing combo units. Discovered the cross pin lock bolt was broken, had about an hour of panic, contemplating buying a 9" and doing the swap, but luckily my friend brought over a pick set, and patiently we turned the bolt until it came out.
From then on, things went more smoothly. Shafts came out. Bearings and seals came out. Used some emery cloth and 0000 steel wool to remove surface rust inside the axle tube. Installed the bearing units, cleaned and installed the shafts and buttoned her up.
I also took the opportunity to install a lubelocker gasket. And will fill up the pumpkin tomorrow as well as finish the rear brakes.
Here's a picture of the broken retaining bolt.
And a picture of the differential - open with 3.55 gears according to the tag.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
From then on, things went more smoothly. Shafts came out. Bearings and seals came out. Used some emery cloth and 0000 steel wool to remove surface rust inside the axle tube. Installed the bearing units, cleaned and installed the shafts and buttoned her up.
I also took the opportunity to install a lubelocker gasket. And will fill up the pumpkin tomorrow as well as finish the rear brakes.
Here's a picture of the broken retaining bolt.
And a picture of the differential - open with 3.55 gears according to the tag.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Flazer
Observer
Thanks. Putting the brakes back on today, and noticing some oil weeping at the bottom of the new seals on both sides. I hope once I fill the differential the seals swell up a little, otherwise I think the tube or axles may be totally shot, not allowing for a good seal. I hope this isn't the case.
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Flazer
Observer
Well, got it all buttoned back together. Struggled all weekend replacing the wheel seals and bearings (broken cross pin retaining bolt), replacing the oil soaked brake shoes, refilling the rear diff (seized fill plug), and rebleeding the brakes. Now my brakes are bled, but I'm still having brake issues. No pedal resistance until almost to the floor, then I have some brakes down at the bottom. Car off, I can pump up the brakes and have decent pedal (not great). Car on, can't pump up the brakes. If I'm going down the road and mash on the brakes, I feel them start to grab, then nothing as the pedal goes down to the bottom where the brakes engage.
Next on the list - reinspect the front brakes to make sure I didn't miss anything; inspect booster and master cylinder. I'll take any advice.
Next on the list - reinspect the front brakes to make sure I didn't miss anything; inspect booster and master cylinder. I'll take any advice.
kraven
Hegelian Scum
Sounds like master cylinder to me. But when you have a vehicle that's new to you, it's always a good idea to change the brake fluid. You never know how old or contaminated it is in one section or parts you haven't fixed. And it has a half life. I'd hit it with some pb blaster, get the bleeders open and moving, and then pump the fluid til it showed a good clean color from each wheel. Then bleed the system. Then check the brakes for function. Previous Owners take a lot of shortcuts when vehicles get into old/cheap lifespan period. It'll cost you maybe 5 bucks to change the brake fluid out, and some time (if the bleeders aren't rusted shut).
Found some 8.8 axle stuff when looking for dodge stuff at the scratch/dent sale section at ringpinion.com, if you need it.
Found some 8.8 axle stuff when looking for dodge stuff at the scratch/dent sale section at ringpinion.com, if you need it.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
I'd say bleed more as a start before throwing hardware at the problem.
Flazer
Observer
Another question, while I'm thinking about it. The PO removed the cruise control components. I'm not sure why, but if it was just yanked, could this cause issues with vacuum leaks, brake issues, etc? I'm searching now, but does anyone have a link or diagram that outlines all the components and parts I'll need to restore it?
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Flazer
Observer
Shocks bought. Decided to go with Rancho RS5000's all around because of a rebate going on, a JC Whitney 20% off coupon, and finding the last pair on ebay for half off. Will work on installing them once they all come in.
Also, considering going with the newer Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires. Looks like a good compromise between MT and AT style treads, has the snowflake rating, and price seems to be good.
Also, considering going with the newer Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires. Looks like a good compromise between MT and AT style treads, has the snowflake rating, and price seems to be good.
AFBronco235
Crew Chief
There are three things that can cause your current brake problems. 1: Your MC has bad seals and needs rebuilt. 2: Your vacuum booster is leaking and needs replaced. 3: Your brake adjustment rod, which connects the pedal to the booster and MC, needs adjustment. I'm thinking its 3 though you may as well rebuild the MC while your at it. It IS almost 30 years old. Anyways, for the rod, you simply need to disconnect it from the pedal and unscrew it from the firewall an inch or two. See if that helps. The reason why I say its the rod is because it sounds like the PO did a half assed job of rebuilding your brakes so its possible he threw a new or remaned MC and/or booster in and didn't make the necessary adjustments.
As far as your axles go, I wouldn't worry. Sounds like you got the job done. So long as there aren't any burs on the axles shafts to damage the seals, you shouldn't have to worry about them. I would make sure that the breather tube for the axle is clean and is run up to the engine with a filter installed to keep water and dirt out of the axle though. Should also help keep any oil from being pushed out around the seals as temps changed.
Good luck finding an I6 with the M5OD combo. Its the most sought after and rarest combo out there. If you have your heart set on it, you're better off finding the engine and tranny separately and bolting them together yourself. The hard part will be finding the output shaft adapter, since the bronco is so much shorter than the F series pickups you'll have to source for the transmission. Keep the 8.8 rear. Its actually tougher than the 9". The only reason most people like the 9" is so they can swap out diffs so much faster.
If you want any sort of simple lift, go with a 2" spring lift from JBG. Coils and leafs are cheap enough and easy enough to install. Just make sure you get the adjustable camber bushings so you can get the alignment done after the new springs. Keep the 15" wheels too. There are still plenty of tire sizes out there that use them. You just have to go to a place like discount tire or a tire specific place. Off road stores only sell what they sponsor. I run 33X10.5 Wrangler BFGs on 15" wheels and with the right alignment and a tie rod flip, they don't even rub on the frame.
Good luck on your build. Looking forward to seeing it in action.
As far as your axles go, I wouldn't worry. Sounds like you got the job done. So long as there aren't any burs on the axles shafts to damage the seals, you shouldn't have to worry about them. I would make sure that the breather tube for the axle is clean and is run up to the engine with a filter installed to keep water and dirt out of the axle though. Should also help keep any oil from being pushed out around the seals as temps changed.
Good luck finding an I6 with the M5OD combo. Its the most sought after and rarest combo out there. If you have your heart set on it, you're better off finding the engine and tranny separately and bolting them together yourself. The hard part will be finding the output shaft adapter, since the bronco is so much shorter than the F series pickups you'll have to source for the transmission. Keep the 8.8 rear. Its actually tougher than the 9". The only reason most people like the 9" is so they can swap out diffs so much faster.
If you want any sort of simple lift, go with a 2" spring lift from JBG. Coils and leafs are cheap enough and easy enough to install. Just make sure you get the adjustable camber bushings so you can get the alignment done after the new springs. Keep the 15" wheels too. There are still plenty of tire sizes out there that use them. You just have to go to a place like discount tire or a tire specific place. Off road stores only sell what they sponsor. I run 33X10.5 Wrangler BFGs on 15" wheels and with the right alignment and a tie rod flip, they don't even rub on the frame.
Good luck on your build. Looking forward to seeing it in action.