The BroBurban - A 2002 2500 Suburban

[fl0w3n]

I use an angled pick to hook them and pull them up, just a little too deep to get out with my sausage fingers!

Okay, well I might have missed it then. Motor is still torn apart to the degree that pulling it back out for a quick check will take less than 5 min so I'll do that.


Question - right next to the oil pressure sensor is another sensor, I'm assuming a cam position sensor, held in with a single bolt. I removed this bolt and tried to remove the sensor and it wouldn't come out with just finger pressure, but rotated freely. I didn't want to force it, but now I'm wondering if there's an o-ring in there and another possible place for this leak I had coming down the back of the block/top of trans?

 

[kojackJKU]

As to the wheels again, I knew what they were, and I LOVE THEM...would love to be able to run them on my 1500 but alas, I cant.

 

[fl0w3n]

So little update, spent the whole 3 day weekend on it last weekend. Haven't spent any time this weekend, had some other life stuff going on. I'm not the best at taking pictures, but here's what I did get. Doesn't fully take it up to speed of where I'm actually at.

At this point;
Valve cover gaskets are done
Oil pressure sensor done
Rear heater T's done
Knock sensors properly sealed
Intake Valley Pan gasket replaced
Intake gaskets replaced/intake installed
Pump rub kit installed but t-case not reinstalled in truck

Still a lot to do, but I'm on the downward slope and it should be driveable next weekend :coffeedrink:

First things first, I got the black bow tie on, because you know that's very important to reliability and overlanding :snorkel:

Got the motor torn down as far as I needed it

Oil pressure sensor replaced

I couldn't just put everything back together dirty, so a lot of time was dedicate to cleaning stuff along the way.

Also got the transfer case pulled out

Looks like I was just in time. I actually thought this case had already worn through, and was worried I may have to replaced more significant parts than just the pump rub kit, but it hadn't yet so should be fine.

 

[fl0w3n]

Got a little more work in today.

Put some real tie rods in! And the Kryptonite idler pivot with weld in brace. I went with the XD series tie rods from Dmax Store, and they look great. I had their Kryptonite tie rods on my Duramax, but I felt like this was a suitable area to cut some costs by going with just the XD line. Also did the idler pivot, which I had in the Duramax as well, so I know it's a must have item. I did not do new pitman or idler arms, or a PISK kit, again I think this might be an acceptable area to cut costs on. I did MOOG idler/pivot on my Duramax, and wasn't happy with them, and most people on the forums said the factory stuff lasts better once you upgrade the idler pivot/brace. I went back and forth on the PISK, but in the end, I figured I'm not doing 800ft/lb of torque 4wd launches in this Suburban, so I should be fine with the upgrades I chose being overkill enough.

Weld in brace... again probably overkill but it was so easy to install with all the room from above, so I figured get it over with now. Also, just ordered the z71 2500HD jounce stoppers... and then I realized the Suburban suspension is setup differently than the trucks. There's no upper or lower stops... the shock must be doing it all?? So I guess I'm going to be returning these, but also I'll need to have a new discussion with Camburg to ask what I can do about limiting this thing once I eventually get the new UCA and Fox shocks on so the shocks aren't being the limiter on up/down travel.

Making progress! You can see valve covers and intake back on here, as well as the idler pivot and brace in. I should be wrapping up by this Saturday and do a shake down run from Ventura to Fresno and back on Sunday.

 

[PGW]

I have a 2003 Yukon XL 2500 and it has the same UCA stop and bump stop mount as the Duramax trucks. Does it look like someone cut yours off?

 

[snowblind]

I did not do new pitman or idler arms, or a PISK kit, again I think this might be an acceptable area to cut costs on. - SNIP -
I went back and forth on the PISK, but in the end, I figured I'm not doing 800ft/lb of torque 4wd launches in this Suburban, so I should be fine with the upgrades I chose being overkill enough.

I think it makes a lot of sense to proactively replace the idler and pitman with stock parts when doing front end upgrades. Also, I don't think the PISK has anything to do with 4WD launches. The PISK is a way to improve the steering accuracy on all GMT800 trucks, regardless of how much power they make.

Also, just ordered the z71 2500HD jounce stoppers... and then I realized the Suburban suspension is setup differently than the trucks. There's no upper or lower stops... the shock must be doing it all?? So I guess I'm going to be returning these, but also I'll need to have a new discussion with Camburg to ask what I can do about limiting this thing once I eventually get the new UCA and Fox shocks on so the shocks aren't being the limiter on up/down travel.

Suburban 2500 suspension IS the same as the trucks. You are missing parts.



Best regards,
Matt Crawley

 

[ASDTANK]

Subscribed!!! Great write up so far. I'm looking for a 2500 'burb for the exact same purpose you bought yours, so this is an excellent knowledge base to have going in. How is the NP246 transfer case? What is the pump rub problem?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rayra]

well if you're coming 126 -> 5, wave as you go by. Lost Hills is a nicer drive though. Unless you are going over the Grapevine on purpose as part of your road test.


Sure looks like the bump-stop frame bracket was cut off flush with the frame. The two rusty edges to the right of the shock tube, running vertical and perpendicular to the frame rail are the remainder? I'm not 100% sure about the 2500 vs 1500. But I think there's supposed to be a sort of saddle bracket there with bump stops / travel limiters on both top and bottom. Someone with a 2500 will have to say for sure. Of find a good online illustration.

eta or maybe it's just the upper 'droop limiter' that's been cut off. I can see it clearly in the image but that might be the lower bump stop in shadow inboard of the shock?

 

[fl0w3n]

I have a 2003 Yukon XL 2500 and it has the same UCA stop and bump stop mount as the Duramax trucks. Does it look like someone cut yours off?

Well that's extremely odd. Mind posting a picture?

No, it doesn't really look like it was cut off. I don't know why anyone would have, truck was bone stock.

 

[fl0w3n]

So I found this image of Boss324's 2500... but his is a 2003?


If you look closely, there are actually some differences: UCA pocket on the rear most bottom (Curve vs no curve), curved flange on the LCA rear pocket. Again, it just doesn't make sense someone would cut out the bracket on a stock vehicle...

 

[boss324]

That is strange that the bump stop mount isnt there? Is it possible that GM revised the suspension setup on 03 and UP? I do know there are significant changes between the 99-02 vs 03+ so wouldnt be surprised.

 

[rayra]

"it just doesn't make sense someone would cut out the bracket on a stock vehicle."

oh it does. Kind of thing a Bro-Poseur might do. Crank up the front torsion to get the nose-high / ***-down attitude the flat-bills prefer. Then be troubled by the vehicle jouncing along as it keeps slamming onto the stops. Which leads to the next bad decision in the sequence, chop out the stops. Just a guess, wrapped up in my own biases. I'm in my 50s. Seen a lot of silly people do a lot of silly crap over 30yrs+ of cruising and off-roading. Excuse me, 'Overlanding'.
I've got a neighbor with a raised but rear low '99-series Sub [other details omitted, been enough vandalism around here lately], I could see him doing something like this. IF that is indeed what has happened.


video of a '2 2500 pickup with some views of the stop at 2:06

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B515N144WOQ


It's like the whole structure is missing, both upper and lower bump stops. The other side is the same? Does that bump stop armature bolt on or is it welded to the frame?

 

[fl0w3n]

Factory upper/lower stops are welded to frame.

Again, this was a bone stock truck that was owned by a family with 6 young kids. I know any things possible but that just doesn't fit the bill for them to do, or for them to have bought it like that and returned to stock.

 

[rayra]

Sure they are the only owners, or that a teen son didn't 'own' it for a while?
Maybe it was a Friday frame at the factory and they got left off.

Going to have to find some better detailed photos of the area on other similar vehicles and better close-ups of you own, to really tell if they were ever there or how they were removed. Your pic really looks like the bump stop bracket / frame sponson is missing. Or is it directly inboard of your shock and obscured in the pic?

Might try and ask some of the 2500 folks here ot take some pics for comparison.



snowblind's '01 K2500 Suburban 8.1L
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/th...nter-Commuting

upcruiser's K2500 '04 Suburban Project Vanilla
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/th...-Suburban-2500

boss324 '03?+ K2500 Suburban wtih 285s?

 

[boss324]

Yeah man looks like it's been cut??? I have some close ups attached so you can compare. I have a 2003 2500 burb so suspension should be identical. I have Sumo super springs for bump stops which are much larger than OE and activate sooner. They are poly and compress up to 50% then become progressively stiffer.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk