The full sized mid-size, my 2014 F150 "Fiddy"

[Grassland]

Just out of curiosity, what do you think the truck is worth in it's current state?

Bids went as high as $16700 wholesale at ADESA in December, so realistically in spring, depending on the market I might be able to private sell for $18000. Any 5.0 or EcoBoost 12th gens with 100-130km are $20k if XLTs. Or more if on a dealer lot.

New truck is going to be 35k + tax plus I need to spend $7k to build it same as I have now. So 47k minus 18k is 39k over 4 years :s
Goal would be to have truck for 8-10 years.

 

[KWJohnston]

Grassland, I finally got around to reading through your thread. Some really neat trips you put that F150 through. Great pictures also. But for God sakes man please upgrade those sleeping bags. Made me cold just reading it!

If my vote counts for anything, I say stick with the tested and proven platform you have that's paid for.

For one thing, I hate car payments! It snatches money away from your monthly budget that you could spend on Trips, Gear, family, home ect. ect. ect. Right now you can get ahead of any rust issues and begin adding gears and other improvements to the truck. With a new one, any funds that could be for upgrades will likely go into just paying the darn thing off. Also think about the fact that in a New truck that's not paid for you will hesitate to take it places you would happily take the truck that's paid off. You will worry about any scratches or trail damage. I'm guilty of always wanting the new bigger better truck myself. The problem is half way into paying for it something else bigger newer and better comes out and your stuck in payments. Its an endless circle.

I don't have everything figured out. I'm currently looking to trade in my 2wd on a 4wd. One thing I plan on is this. The next truck I buy will be paid off asap, and kept until it is absolutely worn slap out.

Best

 

[Todd n Natalie]

Bids went as high as $16700 wholesale at ADESA in December, so realistically in spring, depending on the market I might be able to private sell for $18000. Any 5.0 or EcoBoost 12th gens with 100-130km are $20k if XLTs. Or more if on a dealer lot.

New truck is going to be 35k + tax plus I need to spend $7k to build it same as I have now. So 47k minus 18k is 39k over 4 years :s
Goal would be to have truck for 8-10 years.

But, if you sold for $18,000 ish and took the 6-7 thousand you were going to spend on maintenance, could you find a nice used 15+ for $25,000 ish? Or, do you prefer to buy new?

 

[Grassland]

Todd:
Prefer new. Mostly because I have a specific set of options and colours I want that isn't common. Plus, I know people don't take care of their HVAC equipment, just like they don't take care of their vehicles.

KWjohnston:
Yes, the sleeping bag needs an upgrade. That's my backpacking summer and fall bag. Compact and cheap lol. Not good for -31 even with blankets inside.
As far as a truck goes the 09-14 platform and the 15+ have decent aftermarket for a full size truck.
Hope you find yourself a well maintained 4x4.

 

[Grassland]

Alright.
Quote for trans cooler and plumbing, fluid replacement for front/rear differential and transfer case, and coolant flush and replace I've been quoted $900 CAD including labour.
(Americans, yes, the parts are only x $, everything is at least 35% more here)
I've been ball parked at $2400 for front and rear re gear, for parts and labour. A Detroit Truetrac is $1100, the shop said their pricing on it is horrible, but so is our dollar, so at $690 US which is one price I've seen, it's still over $900.

Not too sure if I'm going to re gear.

Also been looking at a Power Trax no slip, which is supposedly a quieter, less harsh Lock Rite.

 

[badm0t0rfinger]

Alright.
Quote for trans cooler and plumbing, fluid replacement for front/rear differential and transfer case, and coolant flush and replace I've been quoted $900 CAD including labour.
(Americans, yes, the parts are only x $, everything is at least 35% more here)
I've been ball parked at $2400 for front and rear re gear, for parts and labour. A Detroit Truetrac is $1100, the shop said their pricing on it is horrible, but so is our dollar, so at $690 US which is one price I've seen, it's still over $900.

Not too sure if I'm going to re gear.

Also been looking at a Power Trax no slip, which is supposedly a quieter, less harsh Lock Rite.

What gears do you have and what do you want to get?

 

[Grassland]

What gears do you have and what do you want to get?

3.73 currently, was looking at 4.10 to get back to stock ratio with tires I have.

 

[badm0t0rfinger]

3.73 currently, was looking at 4.10 to get back to stock ratio with tires I have.

See thats one of those jumps you really have to figure out if its worth it. My Land Rover I went from 3.55 to 4.10 and I wish I had went to 4.37 or something a bit more aggressive. The Jeep I had 3.73 and originally was going to get 4.10s then after looking over the math and everything I chose 4.88s, mostly because the jump to 5.13 would have meant new axles. 3.73 isn't a bad ratio for our trucks, but 4.10 isn't that much of a step up, and the 4.56 is probably too much.

 

[KWJohnston]

I have read the phrase "don't fear the gear" on a lot of forums.

Look at these guys running up and down the highway with 4:10 gears in there Mustang. There tire size is MUCH smaller in diameter. They are thrilled with the off the line power and the highway RPMs don't seem to be a bother.

This is something I want to do with my next truck. I want some real gears that are suitable for off road lower speed torque. The highway RPMs I'll just have to live with. Unless your driving a diesel, most of the modern Ford,Toyota, Jeep motors make their power at higher RPMs. On the highway my 2wd v8 f150 drops out of overdrive even on slight inclines. A serious hill and it drops down into 2nd.

 

[ITTOG]

Sold the 3.25" blocks and my Decked drawers to a friend of mine to use on his fleet truck. Also put a new battery in, but went with some generic wholesale battery rather than interstate. Also just rolled over 100,000km this weekend.

I just got back from another backcountry winter camp out. Nice over night low of -31 Celsius, so I got about 3 combined hours of sleep.

Lessons were learned, good and bad. We went out after dark, and confirmed we can set up the tent with head lamps without wanting to strangle each other. Great.
We also learned -25 and colder is more than the stove can take care of, especially with crappy wood. Bad.
I confirmed I need a proper winter sleeping bag/blanket set up. My "Hot Core 200" that's supposedly rated for -20 had me freezing, and that was with a faux sheepskin blanket and a thin fleece blanket inside. The -31 night I spent nodding off on a camp chair by the stove because I woke up violently shivering in my bag.

I'll try to add more pictures later my, Chrome isn't behaving right now on my phone
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View attachment 567806View attachment 568328View attachment 568329

So jealous of this. Looks like a great time.

 

[badm0t0rfinger]

I have read the phrase "don't fear the gear" on a lot of forums.

Thats something I've heard too, basically if you do the swap and you hate it because its not enough of a bump that you expect, but if you overdo it you can always make the jump to a bigger tire.

 

[Grassland]

Hmmmm.
4.56 would be steep to use on highway, which are where 90% of the miles come from the last couple years and the next couple.
Right now I am effectively at 3.45-3.50 roughly, which is nice on highway for fuel economy.
I have the 6R80 without select shift, and the 3.7 is a screamer, so I've thought bringing me back to stock equivalent ratio would be enough but now you have me second guessing.
Right now 110kph I'm under 2000rpm on level ground with light wind.

badmotorfinger, your truck has way more power than me, but it's on essentially 35s with 4.10 stock, correct?


As far as Mustangs go on 4.10, guys literally have to replace the driveshaft to a good quality aftermarket to run that much gear. Guys with stock 3.73 gears have blown up driveshafts in cyclone powered cars.

 

[Grassland]

So jealous of this. Looks like a great time.

It usually is. This last trip was a bit unpleasant as I was under equipped.
If you ever get the chance, give it a try.

 

[ITTOG]

It usually is. This last trip was a bit unpleasant as I was under equipped.
If you ever get the chance, give it a try.

I do winter camping several times a year but it is in the mountains in SE Oklahoma so not near as much snow as you have. Temps are usually between 10 and 40 depending on the year. We may have snow 20% of the time with anywhere from an inch to the most I recall is 10". Still fun but I wish the snow and cold was every year.

 

[badm0t0rfinger]

Hmmmm.
4.56 would be steep to use on highway, which are where 90% of the miles come from the last couple years and the next couple.
Right now I am effectively at 3.45-3.50 roughly, which is nice on highway for fuel economy.
I have the 6R80 without select shift, and the 3.7 is a screamer, so I've thought bringing me back to stock equivalent ratio would be enough but now you have me second guessing.
Right now 110kph I'm under 2000rpm on level ground with light wind.

badmotorfinger, your truck has way more power than me, but it's on essentially 35s with 4.10 stock, correct?


As far as Mustangs go on 4.10, guys literally have to replace the driveshaft to a good quality aftermarket to run that much gear. Guys with stock 3.73 gears have blown up driveshafts in cyclone powered cars.

Yes, it has metric 315/75R17 from factory and now its measured 35x12.5R17 and 4.10 gears stock. I think its a great combo, I have the power I want but I'm not screaming on the highway. I'd consider a 4.56 swap if I went to 37s. Its a shame that these trucks don't have 4.27/4.33 options (that I know of) because those may be a good middle ground.

Also its a shame those easy charts don't exist like they do for Jeeps. I swear when I was looking at gears for my Jeep I could find every engine/trans combo for each money and how each gearset would work for any size. Almost too much information!