the "i dont know **** about bikes" thread

[marshal]

ok - so. few things

i have a 2001 Mongoose DX 4.0. it was a great bike when i was a teenager that didnt know anything. its in great shape, but the gear shifters dont function (feels like a bind) from everything that i know about it, it has a kickass frame on it. but it doesnt have disk brakes on it, which are a big deal to me. i have the capacity to weld aluminum. so should i strip this bike down to the frame - weld disk brackets on the back and rebuild this thing up to the kind of bike that i want?

or do i start fresh and build a bike from scratch? i dont really know anything about bikes other than i want fox 120mm forks, a renthal fat bar, and a Voodoo Bokor frame.

i could really use some guidance as i almost went out and bought a Trek Stash 8, and i know i can build just as good a bike for a couple hundred bucks less.

 

[Christophe Noel]

Get a new bike. Seriously, do yourself a favor and just start from scratch with a new complete bike. Updating bikes is never a good value, and frankly, the frame is not just dated, it really isn't anything to write home about at this point. Given it's winter, take some time, shop the deals. Even $1500 will get you a darn nice bike. Helluva lot better than you could build with that same money around your old frame.

 

[marshal]

ive been doing on and off research on MTB related stuff since about may and like i said above; the frame bars and forks are the only things ive settled on. ive been picking through build threads in this section but im not entirely sure what to pick out.

kinda sad - i can design and build a coilover suspension for a Jeep to win races, but i dont have a clue about bikes

 

[4xdog]

I go with Flounder on this one. It might be time to get a new bike. There are lots of great choices and components have really gotten pretty good from mid level upwards.

Disk brakes are OK, I guess. I've had great luck with rim brakes, though. For example, the Magura hydraulic rim brakes on my KTM trekking bicycle are the finest brakes I've ever ridden with. And the Dura-Ace rim brakes on my Alex Singer and Waterford road bikes are superb.

Your Mongoose is an alumium frame, which may or may not be anywhere near its fatigue limits. But it will fatigue -- the nature of the material. What would happen to the heat treatment and residual stength of the thin-walled frame tubing after welding disk caliper mounts onto the fork blades or stays I can't say -- but I wouldn't do it.

(As an aside, my much loved Alan aluminum/Campy Nuovo Record from circa 1973 was retired from outside duty in the early 90s after tens of thousands of miles. Probably LONG past its best-if-used-by date, but I take care of my gear. On the other hand, my aluminum Cannondale went in the dumpster after a much shorter life. The big miles go on the Waterford (steel) now -- it'll last longer than I do.)

Rehabbing the Mongoose to get some additional time out of it is an option (although this fails your disk brake goal, of course). Binding in the brakes, shifters, or drivetrain isn't a hard thing to fix (normally).

You can probably build up a bike for more or less what you could buy it for. Probably a little more. Not likely you'll be able to do it for much less, but you will be able to build up *exactly* what you want. That in itself can be a satisfying exercise in these winter months.

Don

 

[marshal]

thanks

looks like im stuck with building one. which is a guess an ok end result trying to find a hardtail 29er how i want it. i guess i need to poke around some more

 

[4xdog]

There are often a lot of bikes to be found when college lets out in the spring. Usually not super high end or techncial, but ya never know. If you're not set by the time the UofL lets out in the Spring it may be worth checking classified sites in the campus area.

 

[Christophe Noel]

You simply cannot build a bike for less money than buying complete. Un-possible.

Let's look at a $1500 bike at regular retail. Such a bike will probably have a $500 fork. It will probably have $250 in just brakes alone. Wheels? Probably another $500. Tires alone are $85. There's a reason why bikes are sold complete and so few build from frame up. You'll spend roughly 20-30% more if you build part by part. The only way to make it a reasonable value is to find each and every one of your required parts at that 20-30% below MSRP. What a pain.

 

[Jay H]

You simply cannot build a bike for less money than buying complete. Un-possible.

Let's look at a $1500 bike at regular retail. Such a bike will probably have a $500 fork. It will probably have $250 in just brakes alone. Wheels? Probably another $500. Tires alone are $85. There's a reason why bikes are sold complete and so few build from frame up. You'll spend roughly 20-30% more if you build part by part. The only way to make it a reasonable value is to find each and every one of your required parts at that 20-30% below MSRP. What a pain.

This is some seriously accurate and solid advice. Even buying a complete bike and the frame you really want and swapping the frames and selling the other one for a low price is probably still a way to save.

As a side note every aluminum frame that I have owned has broken except one that was stolen.

 

[Vicreo A Legarreta]

I agree with flouder get a new bike that is your star for what you need, I don't like disc brakes to heavy, whats your intention wit it, cross country races or occasional user to go point A to B.

 

[Jay H]

I am surprised to see two anti disc brake comments. This is not to hate on those who do like rim brakes but to inform the OP that wanting disc brakes is totally rational today. I was a late adopter of disc brakes.

Personally I would never even for a second consider going back to rim brakes. There are some very cheap disc brakes that are really junk but they are limited to cheap stuff. Finding a new fork with brake posts is a challenge and options that do exist are not great and no where near fox quality. All my favorite rims are disc only with no brake track. Disc brake only rims I.E. rims with no brake track have advantages like not getting ground thinner like brake pads and not needing thick brake tracks or expensive grinding to finish them. My frame and many new frames do not even have brake posts which saves a lot of weigh on the frame by not needing the seat stays to resist bowing outward under brake force. Not to mention modulation and stopping power especially in nasty conditions.

Oh another plus of a complete bike is instant gratification of not waiting for parts to come from a bunch of different sources.

 

[Vicreo A Legarreta]

I have used rim brakes for more or 20 year but to be onest I want 29 and all are disc brakes, it's time for a change

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[marshal]

Thanks for the advise guys.

Seems like no one is happy with aluminum. Should I look at the steel framed version of the Bokor?

I'm trying to get a "one size fits all" setup. I've really enjoyed downhill trail riding at SnowShoe Mountain, and I ride through the local bridal paths. I really wanted disks for that reason. Many of the bridal paths have unavoidable water and mud that will clog up rim brakes and make them squawk and squeak something awful - as well as not function worth anything.

So downhill, cross country, technical trail and the big one - riding to work. Because of how our terrain is here, I don't think I can run a single or double speed. My mongoose had a deore 27 speed gear set on it and I felt like I had too many options. I was ALWAYS changing trying to find the right one

 

[p nut]

While complete bikes are a better value, I just like building from frame up more. Gives me more satisfaction. Since you're already a wrench, bike building should be a cinch. I learned just about everything via YouTube.

Regarding material, I've ridding nothing but steel hardtails over the last several years (Salsa, On One, Surly, Vassago, etc.). Got a Niner scandium (aluminum) hardtail last year and really, I can't tell that much difference. Meaning, it's still a hardtail and beats the crap out of you. I love it, though.

Voodoo seems like a solid offering. While I don't know what your budget is, take a look at Canfield bikes. My next purchase will be a Canfield Yelli Screamy (aluminum). I had a Nimble 9 (steel), but sold it. Yelli is a pound lighter and I like that I won't have to worry about rust issues, since I ride it in winter and they salt the roads here. Yelli can take up to 140mm fork, and Nimble 9 is at 120mm. I love the short chain stays, which makes it easier to pull up the front wheel and put the power down. It's much more nimble than traditional 29er XC geo. It was much more confidence inspiring on the downhills as well. Great bikes.

 

[marshal]

Then what would you guys recommend for wheels, tires, cranks etc. I'd like to finish the bike for less than 1700$

 

[p nut]

Then what would you guys recommend for wheels, tires, cranks etc. I'd like to finish the bike for less than 1700$

I'd say to keep it at $1,700:

Frame: $700
Wheels: I've used a $120 WTB TrailDisc wheelset for years with no issues.
Cranks: Shimano SLX or XT, new or used: $100-150
Tires: ? Depends on terrain. I like Ardents up front, Ikon rear. Budget $100
Brakes: BB7 with compressionless housing ~$150
Headset: Cane Creek S3 - $30 or less
Then the rest, you can figure out. Look on ebay and MTBR for good deals on used stuff. Watch that classifieds section daily and you'll get good deals.

Again, it's more cost effective getting a complete. But in my opinion, it's not as fun.