The Official Dometic CFX Fridge Feed!

338Lapua

New member
I picked up the CFX-95DZW and ran the ARB loom wiring kit to the back of my truck. Have only used it a handful of times but it has definitely been a game changer in my overlanding/ camping experiences!! ( i didn't want the 95 but I got it at an auction for 20% of retail cost and couldn't say no)
 
I was looking at the CFX 50 on Amazon, and noted in one of the review, a guy claimed CB or Ham transmission in vehicle really messed up the CFX operations. I have never heard this and am sure some of you are running behind-mounted ham rigs and a fridge. Any experience with this?
 

karmabiker

New member
Edited my post above to add this as well...

8.21.2018
After 3 months I was finally able to get a replacement fridge from Dometic. Plus side they upgraded me. Down side - I spent most of the camping season with a fridge that blew fuses every day or 2. All the same wiring in my rig (I never got around to running the 10ga) - no blown fuses with the new fridge after 6 days of run time with one compartment at 27F and the other at 34F off the AGM and solar without starting the rig. It does seem that the compressor cycles MUCH more frequently, I suspect that this keeps the heat and subsequently amp draw low.

I had 2 very recent comparisons of customer service - CVT Tents and PowerStop brakes.

On CVT I had 2 warranty items, the telescoping ladder and an awning pole, both broken, both debatable as to wether they should be warranty items. CVT didn't even blink, they asked for pictures and sent out a new pole and ladder the next day. AMAZING

On Powerstop - this was most certainly NOT a warranty item. I called them up and told them what happened to my drivers rear pad and rotor (freak rock from a water crossing on Ophir wedged in between the pad and rotor) and they offered a one time courtesy replacement which i had in my hands in under a week, also AMAZING.

IMHO Dometic needs to take note from these two companies on how to handle customer service. I love the new fridge and it seems to be working very very well, however it should not have taken the bulk of the camping season for me to get this sorted out.
 

3LBurro

New member
I need some help. I am sure a lot of you guys had done this kind of design before.

I am looking to size the 2nd battery that big enough to run the CFX 60W in my 4Runner.

I plan to use 2nd battery that connected to RedArc BCDC1225D that connect to 100W solar panel and to starter battery. This way the 2nd battery will get charge from either solar or alternator.

Based on the spec of the CFX 60W, Rated current @ 12V DC is 8.2A. Assuming I need the battery to run the CFX60 continuously for 24hr, the Amp-Hour would be 24hr X 8.2 A = 196.8 Amp-hour, say 200AH

In addition, since this thing won't be running full load all the time, I am thinking it only load with 25% of the time, now 200AH come down to 50AH

So I should get 2nd deep cycling AGM battery size around 100Ah? To at least keep it going for a day without charging the battery.

I am not sure if my math and unit are correct since I am not an electrical engineer. Please help comment if I ma heading the right direction.



(DOMETIC: I called and talked to your technical support, she was very sweet, but do not have a clue to answer technical question. I had to wait for her to look up product spec, which I also have, and read to me. Don't you have engineer on staff that can help your customer with technical question?)
 

Coachgeo

Explorer
....Based on the spec of the CFX 60W, Rated current @ 12V DC is 8.2A. Assuming I need the battery to run the CFX60 continuously for 24hr, the Amp-Hour would be 24hr X 8.2 A = 196.8 Amp-hour, say 200AH ......
that may not be true if I understand right....... my understanding is the discharge is not linear. More % it is discharged.... the easier it discharges. Also different type batteries should not be discharged below a certain total % or you begin to damage the battery's life pretty quickly. could be wrong but believe with agm your not suppose to let it go below 50% discharge.

is there another number along with the ah rating of the battery your looking at. Maybe Im behind the times but thought it was presented as AH @ x amps. another words..... if battery is 200ah @5amp...... then it only last that 200 hours with a 5amp draw... would be less with an 8amp draw.
 

karmabiker

New member
I need some help. I am sure a lot of you guys had done this kind of design before.

I am looking to size the 2nd battery that big enough to run the CFX 60W in my 4Runner.

I plan to use 2nd battery that connected to RedArc BCDC1225D that connect to 100W solar panel and to starter battery. This way the 2nd battery will get charge from either solar or alternator.

Based on the spec of the CFX 60W, Rated current @ 12V DC is 8.2A. Assuming I need the battery to run the CFX60 continuously for 24hr, the Amp-Hour would be 24hr X 8.2 A = 196.8 Amp-hour, say 200AH

In addition, since this thing won't be running full load all the time, I am thinking it only load with 25% of the time, now 200AH come down to 50AH

So I should get 2nd deep cycling AGM battery size around 100Ah? To at least keep it going for a day without charging the battery.

I am not sure if my math and unit are correct since I am not an electrical engineer. Please help comment if I ma heading the right direction.



(DOMETIC: I called and talked to your technical support, she was very sweet, but do not have a clue to answer technical question. I had to wait for her to look up product spec, which I also have, and read to me. Don't you have engineer on staff that can help your customer with technical question?)

I'm running a CFX85 - one compartment on frozen and the other on fridge. My 24H consumption on the fridge is in the 20AH range on the fridge for the first day of cooling and 15AH on subsequent days. YMMV.

House battery is a Duracell AGM - Capacity 20hr: 55AH Solar is a 60W lensun with a victron controller. The controller and a quality panel are key...

I've never run out of juice with this combo. Even on cloudy days I'm generating enough to keep up.
 
So far I am pretty happy with the CFX50. There is a lot of temperature stratification from top to bottom. The items at the top can be quite a bit warmer than the set point of the thermostat. I challenge the unit with 120 degree heat leaving Phoenix Metro driving up into cooler temperatures and the unit seems to handle it. I need to invest in a new deep cell battery to really give this fridge a fighting chance at what I am asking of it.gear.jpg
 

3LBurro

New member
that may not be true if I understand right....... my understanding is the discharge is not linear. More % it is discharged.... the easier it discharges. Also different type batteries should not be discharged below a certain total % or you begin to damage the battery's life pretty quickly. could be wrong but believe with agm your not suppose to let it go below 50% discharge.

is there another number along with the ah rating of the battery your looking at. Maybe Im behind the times but thought it was presented as AH @ x amps. another words..... if battery is 200ah @5amp...... then it only last that 200 hours with a 5amp draw... would be less with an 8amp draw.

I think your understanding make a lot more sense than mine. Need electrical engineer to read our thought and convert to correct engineering form.

I'm running a CFX85 - one compartment on frozen and the other on fridge. My 24H consumption on the fridge is in the 20AH range on the fridge for the first day of cooling and 15AH on subsequent days. YMMV.

House battery is a Duracell AGM - Capacity 20hr: 55AH Solar is a 60W lensun with a victron controller. The controller and a quality panel are key...

I've never run out of juice with this combo. Even on cloudy days I'm generating enough to keep up.

I think this make sense. Field testing result. I just don't want to have to spend money and buy battery that too small or way too big. I could try to find data logger and log it so we have real result which essentially, how much power does these thing take, what is the power draw at different load etc.
 

theksmith

Explorer
Hey guys!

We are looking to see what kind of set ups you guys are running! What are your thoughts on your Dometic fridge? ...


i bought a Dometic CFX-65DZ exactly 2 years ago and it's been great.

the unit sits in a custom made slide-out in the rear of my 16 JK Rubicon Unlimited. it takes up almost exactly half of the available cargo area width, and just barely fits length-wise with the rear seats up. the Jeep is my daily driver but sees a ton of off-road miles each year and so the Dometic just stays in there 90% of the time.

i previously had one of the "cheap brand" 43qt models. that one worked fine, but it was heavy and required several DIY "improvements". my only addition to the Dometic has been to add a small gas strut to hold the lid open.




some feedback for DometicOutdoors:

- the temperature differential between the coldest area (rear bottom corner) and the warmest area (front top corner over the compressor) is too large even when not using the dual-zone dividers. this actually works out well when i travel solo as i can keep a small container of ice in the "cold corner", some food/drinks in the middle and fruit/condiments in the "warm corner". however, when i travel with the family and we want to fill the entire space with food, we have to constantly rotate the contents or else items is in the cold corner freeze solid while the opposite corner will barely stay cold enough to be useful.

- a minor nitpick is that when plugged into DC only, yet turned OFF, the unit still draws a couple hundred mA of current. it's not big deal once you are aware of it - i just unplug it now when not in use. however, please consider replacing the "soft" power switch with a hard disconnect style, or else improve the 12v off-draw.

- another very minor issue is that the springs inside the handles aren't strong enough, so they sometimes slap against the sides of the fridge when traveling really rough roads.

- the CFX-65DZ was a good deal 2 years ago at around $700 on Amazon. the new $1k price tag means you're competing with other top brands and so i'd have to more carefully consider the purchase today.

- i wish you made this size available with true dual zones (independent temperature controls).

- i love the 4 threaded holes built into the bottom of this unit. they allow me to attach the fridge to the slide-out securely yet still remove it quickly when i need more space. IMO, this is much better than using hold-down straps.

- the easily reversible lid is another important detail you need to keep.

- i dig the newer units' more neutral (all gray) color scheme!


 
Last edited:
theksmith: I have an ARB 50l that has the same cold/warm issues as you described, so I borrowed a method we use in our motorhome’s 3-way absorption fridge. A small battery powered fan bought from Camping World circulates air throughout the fridge helping to “even out” the temps. Camco and Valterra are two that come to mind. No need to use it in a dedicated freezer compartment but really helps out in the fridge section. Others have designed systems utilizing the circuitry of the fridge but I prefer to keep it simple. Anyway, works for us, YMMV. ✌️
 

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