The Wanderers build

[superbuickguy]

Lots of parts arriving

time to start checking clearances

hmm, think I need to use a different panhard mount

better.. also new steering box is in place

 

[superbuickguy]

I love it when my crap actually isn't... that dirty pump on top is a $400 core. yay

for those 2 who wonder at these dimensions... NV4500 4wd depth

dimension for the 208

overall measurement is exactly the same as the 700r4/208 combo

do they call this stack height?

I could go this tall... but no....

steering wouldn't be terrible... hmmm...

 

[superbuickguy]

time to glue these on.... first, I got a comment that you can't weld cast steel to DOM... uh, GM did. Look at the ends.... okay, now that that's ended
I spent too much time deciding if I wanted to move the springs out - obviously there is more 'stability' but in the end I decided that the benefits outweighed the positives and kept them closer to centerline

the biggest benefit is it will maintain the stock shock location so I don't spend too much on shocks

lots of welding.... both sides

3.5 positive camber, level spring pads

otherside

panhard mount in place

tomorrow.... we will see but likely starting to design the arms

 

[superbuickguy]

ride height.... 8"-9" lift...

hang the axle off the bump stops... fairly easy way of centering everything

time to connect the dots.... again, suspension goes up less than it droops.... to be honest, for what I do, clearance really isn't everything. if I can safely run 37s, there isn't a trail out here that I can't run. If I lived in the mud of the midwest or south... then different story... but even snow, 37s work just fine if the suspension works

brackets are on backwards... ah well, easy fix

Doubt I'll get to this again before Thanksgiving... family and friends coming so this gets to be a paperweight until that's done.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving, find people you like and spend time with them.

 

[NevadaLover]

Glad you're back!

 

[superbuickguy]

well, as I said before Turkey day - I wouldn't do updates... which was true but not for reasons I imagined. Got sick after everyone left on Thursday and spent all Friday and Saturday in bed.
I did get stuff, though

the tires are going on the '40 - but they're the same size (395/70r16 or 38x15.5) as the Toyos so I figured I'd get an idea if I'm thinking right.... I am

again, this is going to be like the '40 - far more down travel then up travel - so it shouldn't require much trimming to keep everything happy

they also came with the same internal bead lock wheels like are on the Suburban and the Colorado... which was a nice bonus. tires are 50%. probably out of date but don't care.

 

[superbuickguy]

More front suspension.
but first one must scooch the entertainment committee out

tentative placement for the mounts....

I'm all about the calibrated eyeball at this point. Right now is make sure everything will work where it needs to go. I've already checked the frame for square.
here is a good example of a lot going in a small space

panhard bar, steering, coil spring and a shock...
my beta test.... I like how it works now.

another view of the hard bit - key to making it all fit will be laying the coil spring towards the back just a bit - yes, coil overs would be easier but let me remind - $2000 each....

bushings are in place - and you have no idea the temptation of welding the bars with the poly inside... those are going to be a pain to get out

waiting on a couple parts I didn't order initially but by the time they get here I should be able to weld it all together....

 

[superbuickguy]

incremental progress
I guess my calibrated eyeball wasn't wrong (the edge of the pumpkin is center)

key here is similar length of the panhard bar and the steering cross arm

tacked bracket in place then trial eyeball the spring

and trial fit with the TRE in place.

That spring isn't likely going to be enough for what I'm doing.... I don't know whether I got it for the FJ40 or for my wife's Jeep... the '40, maybe because I think they were E350 van springs, but the JK, yeah fat chance.

 

[superbuickguy]

absolutely the most frustrating part of a build... spend 'extra' money for a 'complete' kit.... and there's missing parts.
stopped here because there were no tube adapters for the johnny joint end

figure, why not do the cross bars (steering rod, panhard bar, cross steering shaft)... and guess what, missing those adapters too

not naming names but looks like my supplier just changed. I suppose I'd be less annoyed if I knew where my taps went... those and my large x huge drill bits - I could make some in my lathe.... but no, now I get to wait until Monday to get the parts.

 

[superbuickguy]

motor... since I'm waiting on other fronts

time to strip off all the 24v stuff..... which should be worth keeping since it's as rare as hen's teeth (H1 Civilian only)

If they could have figured out how to hybrid this motor with the starter motor, it probably would have doubled its hp

thankfully, in that vein, I've kept most of the stuff from the other motors.... though, not driver's side manifolds.. fortunately I have one on the 6.2...

in case you're curious, yes, it's heavy

this is unique to this block - and van blocks - the turbo is in the center so they need to get oil to and from the turbo.... and put oil in the valley of the motor.... this motor has 34k miles on it and was obviously leaking from the factory...

also, it seems the replaced the turbo at least once because there were random bolts near the turbo (random, turbo bolts)

 

[NevadaLover]

motor... since I'm waiting on other fronts

time to strip off all the 24v stuff..... which should be worth keeping since it's as rare as hen's teeth (H1 Civilian only)

If they could have figured out how to hybrid this motor with the starter motor, it probably would have doubled its hp

thankfully, in that vein, I've kept most of the stuff from the other motors.... though, not driver's side manifolds.. fortunately I have one on the 6.2...

in case you're curious, yes, it's heavy

this is unique to this block - and van blocks - the turbo is in the center so they need to get oil to and from the turbo.... and put oil in the valley of the motor.... this motor has 34k miles on it and was obviously leaking from the factory...

also, it seems the replaced the turbo at least once because there were random bolts near the turbo (random, turbo bolts)

Sometimes it's amazing the parts you find on a used engine or in the bay, I always wonder how many spares the previous guy(s) had to rob to finish the job.

 

[superbuickguy]

Sometimes it's amazing the parts you find on a used engine or in the bay, I always wonder how many spares the previous guy(s) had to rob to finish the job.

I think someone replaced the turbo and only installed 'most' of the bolts.... no need for spares - so leave them in the valley. One of those bolts they left out was a open drain into the block.... thankfully they didn't park this outside because it would have filled the block with water.

 

[superbuickguy]

got a load of parts today... start installing them.
first, the tube inserts

next eyeball the upper control arms

one of the big problems of the Ford control arm system is you cannot get a lot of adjustment of caster. The angle isn't really a problem (the lower arm angle) because there's plenty of caster already (5 degrees at rest) thus when you compress the suspension, it actually puts more caster in the system which tends to make the car want to go even straighter (the more caster, the harder effort it takes to turn the wheel - thus that 'centered' feel people talk about with cars that cruise). Of course, the opposite is that it also makes your turning circle larger the more caster you put into the car at rest

In this case I'm putting enough adjustment in place that I could raise the truck another 4 or so inches and still have plenty of caster adjustment..... but that's what takes so long here, making sure the theory actually happens IRL

 

[superbuickguy]

time to get serious...

not sure why I ordered 3/4" fastener stuff, but it's here and it's easy enough to drill larger holes

tacked

time to change the panhard mount

chop chop

yellow marks are where I'll give it a bit of a bend to clear

TREs are my bane. some of ... no, all of, the TREs are wrong for one reason or another.... so tomorrow I'll go buy more... or drive to Portland to get my forklift...

 

[superbuickguy]

how to remove tight-fit bushings

time to weld

one thing that is an absolute must - do not weld the threaded inserts into the tubing with the heim joint still in it. If you do, it'll never come apart again - the heating/cooling of the much thinner adapter will fuse the adapter to the heim.... ask me how I know. The other problem is it cleans the threads of oil - which allows it to flash rust inside...

the other big mistake is to wind it back together while it's still warm.... don't do it. let it cool, lube up the threads, then reassemble.

while I'm waiting for it to cool - time to work some more on the motor
how to remove the fan.... heat and air chisel

then get the valve covers off

which requires pulling the intake and fuel lines off

the plan is to get the heads off, replace the head gaskets with a thicker gasket, get the head resurfaced, and make removing these exhaust manifolds someone else's problem... lordy they are tight

I'm not convinced this motor only has 34k on it... change your oil folks....
tomorrow night I'll pull the heads off