Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Those 1st gen Dodge guys....geezzzz. 
If I was going to do it over again.
-I would get the same 91.5-93 truck with the Intercooler. The later 1st gen truck, while not being as powerful have the taller heavier frame I think ( the 8" tall frame ).
-I like my manual. Overfill it with 5 quarts of 5w-30 synthetic and you should have any problems unless you run tons of power at low speeds in high gears.
-The NP205 is bombproof, rebuilding is only a few hundred and you can get parts anywhere.
-The front driveline is a bit of a weak point. I would replace with something a little stronger if you get the chance.
-Front axle is about the best you can get. Its a low pinion kingpin Dana 60 with 35 spline inners. If your REALLY concerned you can get 35 spline outers or alloy axles. Everything is easily maintainable and rebuildable.
-Rear axle. The 32 spline D70 isn't bad, especially with the powerlok, but it is probably the weakest drivetrain component. I have been running mine with 39s for a few years without any issues however. The 'perfect' swap in my opinion is a 2003ish GM 2500 4x4 rear end. Its basically the last of the 14-bolt axles ( for easy gear and locker selection ) but with nice factory disc brakes with hat-style parking brakes. You can get them with 3.73 or 4.10 gears. The overall width is also about perfect at 67" last time I checked. This matches the front axle almost exactly, and frankly better than the stock slighty narrower D70. If you had factory 4.10 gears this would be a no-brainer upgrade IMOO. These axles can be had for $500 in junkyards.
-Body. Dodge bodies are not the best. Buy one from the southwest if you can. The paint might be baked, but you won't have much rust at all. The factory paint leaves a lot to be desired. Plan on painting it somehow. It doesn't have to be anything fancy.
-I love the stretched fenders on my truck, it was a lot of work though. It is still my favorite mod. Being able to run 38-39" tires without any lift is great. 37s would probably be more realistic and practical. If you want to run big tires look at how MoPowa cut his on DTR. He is on here too I think.
-Steering. Ditch the factory system and do crossover. Also, plan on replacing the steering shaft with something better.
These are basically 1-ton diesel powered 1970s trucks. Don't get your hopes up on ride quality, comfort, etc. Its a practical, tough, easy to fix truck.
If you aren't sure this is your thing, I would think HARD about getting a 2003-2004 Dodge regular cab long box, Cummins, Manual, base model. These are GREAT trucks for the most part. You can run 37s with no body mods or cutting if you do the right things....all on nice aluminum factory wheels. These trucks have come down a LOT in the past two years. If I had to do another truck I would most likely lean this way. Even the base model 2003ish trucks are SOOO much more comfortable and quiet than even the nicest 1st gen trucks.
Good luck on your project.
If I was going to do it over again.
-I would get the same 91.5-93 truck with the Intercooler. The later 1st gen truck, while not being as powerful have the taller heavier frame I think ( the 8" tall frame ).
-I like my manual. Overfill it with 5 quarts of 5w-30 synthetic and you should have any problems unless you run tons of power at low speeds in high gears.
-The NP205 is bombproof, rebuilding is only a few hundred and you can get parts anywhere.
-The front driveline is a bit of a weak point. I would replace with something a little stronger if you get the chance.
-Front axle is about the best you can get. Its a low pinion kingpin Dana 60 with 35 spline inners. If your REALLY concerned you can get 35 spline outers or alloy axles. Everything is easily maintainable and rebuildable.
-Rear axle. The 32 spline D70 isn't bad, especially with the powerlok, but it is probably the weakest drivetrain component. I have been running mine with 39s for a few years without any issues however. The 'perfect' swap in my opinion is a 2003ish GM 2500 4x4 rear end. Its basically the last of the 14-bolt axles ( for easy gear and locker selection ) but with nice factory disc brakes with hat-style parking brakes. You can get them with 3.73 or 4.10 gears. The overall width is also about perfect at 67" last time I checked. This matches the front axle almost exactly, and frankly better than the stock slighty narrower D70. If you had factory 4.10 gears this would be a no-brainer upgrade IMOO. These axles can be had for $500 in junkyards.
-Body. Dodge bodies are not the best. Buy one from the southwest if you can. The paint might be baked, but you won't have much rust at all. The factory paint leaves a lot to be desired. Plan on painting it somehow. It doesn't have to be anything fancy.
-I love the stretched fenders on my truck, it was a lot of work though. It is still my favorite mod. Being able to run 38-39" tires without any lift is great. 37s would probably be more realistic and practical. If you want to run big tires look at how MoPowa cut his on DTR. He is on here too I think.
-Steering. Ditch the factory system and do crossover. Also, plan on replacing the steering shaft with something better.
These are basically 1-ton diesel powered 1970s trucks. Don't get your hopes up on ride quality, comfort, etc. Its a practical, tough, easy to fix truck.
If you aren't sure this is your thing, I would think HARD about getting a 2003-2004 Dodge regular cab long box, Cummins, Manual, base model. These are GREAT trucks for the most part. You can run 37s with no body mods or cutting if you do the right things....all on nice aluminum factory wheels. These trucks have come down a LOT in the past two years. If I had to do another truck I would most likely lean this way. Even the base model 2003ish trucks are SOOO much more comfortable and quiet than even the nicest 1st gen trucks.
Good luck on your project.
