Things I learned from Diplostrat at Expo East and the questions I still have . . .

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Half a volt increase is not enough. 13.7v would be a float voltage. You need to get that battery up into the 14.5v range and keep it there long enough to get the job done.

Without the Mechman pigtail, you'll need B2B.



I might take that ACR off your hands. Which one is it and where are you located?
 

Capt Jon

Observer
The ACR is the Blue Sea 7622. I am back and forth between Cairo and Atlanta. The truck is in Atlanta.

Next question becomes which B2B. I have read a little on the CTEK and Redarc. CTEK/smartpass seem to allow more amps from the alternator, but I am not sure how much benefit that gives me on my 28-year old 80-amp alternator. CTEK/Smartpass also appear to be quite a bit larger. There's not a lot of room in there, and it seems the Redarc might be easier to fit.

Please forgive me if I am opening a debate that has already taken place.
 
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dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Woo, 500a. Well...I'm in Los Angeles. Figure out a price and if you want to be bothered shipping it, and I'm in.

No rush on that, I can wait.
 

Capt Jon

Observer
Thanks,

It will be a little while. I'm about to head back to Egypt for a few weeks. I'll PM you when I get back to see if you're still interested.

I will miss the "clunk" it makes when it cuts in an out.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
I wouldn't bother with the Smartpass on a single battery. If you had a big enough battery bank that could actually accept the 80a flow rate that the Smartpass would allow - and a more hefty alternator - it'd be a different story.

Redarc is good stuff. If that's what fits, go for it.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
question on the golf cart batteries...
How well do these handle horrible wash board roads like in Baja and the desert Southwest?
I have been using AGM batteries but my new Tacoma build with camper shell I am thinking more power....but I worry about venting, leaking and vibration
 

john61ct

Adventurer
I'd also be interested in picking up another 7622.

FLA is more robust than AGM in every way, certainly cheaper and last longer. Well worth topping up water occasionally, plus you can use a hydrometer.

Just put a tray under and strap down securely.

Sealing up and venting to the outside is IMO optional depending on your setup and sensitivity.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Sterling's BB line is IMO the way to go for DCDC charging. CTEK is fine if 20A is OK for you, but adding the bypass unit may as well go with the unique **full adjustability** of a Sterling.

If you need to buy Aussie then Redarc has good CS.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Well the FLAs have been handling washboard for decades before AGM came out, without developing a reputation of "don't do washboard or your battery will die".

But the AGMs with fiberglass sandwiched between the plates would obviously handle it better.

Venting happens with FLA whenever they are being charged, so that's a given.

Leaking...not so much. It takes a pretty serious tilt angle to get the electrolye up to the vent hole. Plus the caps usually have an internal baffle.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
Sterling's BB line is IMO the way to go for DCDC charging. CTEK is fine if 20A is OK for you, but adding the bypass unit may as well go with the unique **full adjustability** of a Sterling.

If you need to buy Aussie then Redarc has good CS.

I have a CTEK 250S in my current rig, and I like the RedArc stuff just from reading 4wdAction out of OZ....however the repeated mention of Sterling has me interested...

So my question is what Sterling unit would be ideal for running a fridge in a camper on a 2017 Tacoma if I plan to have solar (live in Phx so seems to make sense) if I went with 2 of the 6V Golf Cart batteries from Costo and wanted to keep this super simple?
On the Solar I plan to run a big panel or 2 to get max power out of our constant sun here.
 

mezmochill

Is outside
Get 300-400 w of panels, a good adjustable MPPT controller, as much battery that will fit (id use AGM for ease of use) and call it good. Batteries will last a long time and you wont run out of juice.

Dont make it overly complex and itll work just fine unless you like the 12v management as a hobby/learning expierence. Thats cool too.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Golf cart GC2 have nice thick plates, and decent isolation pads between the cells. The cases are also pretty tough. Golf carts do get a decent amount of vibration. The 6v batteries almost always have thicker plates. This is just geometry, half the cells in the same length gives more space between the plates to prevent shorts, and more room for thick plates (and support grids).

In the harshest of conditions, such as severe high frequency vibration, a quality AGM battery will often take more abuse. Even when the case is cracked, they will not leak, and will continue to work for quite a while. If you repair a case break in good time they will have minimal impact on life. The fiberglass mat provides isolation and cell support, as well as damping the tendency of the plates to vibrate. The vibration can cause the interconnects to crack, or the cells to short out. A very high quality AGM (Lifeline for example) will usually have a additional layer of separation/isolation between the cells, usually a permeable polyethylene plastic.

Most AGM cannot be equalized to recover capacity lost to sulfation. So they need to a good charge regimen if cycled deeply. Solar, etc is often required. Some do allow occasional "equalization" Lifeline will tolerate a 15.5V equalize/recovery charge after a extended period without a true 100% absorb charge.

Ideally you would have the battery mounted securely, with some rubber if severe shock is expected. An often missed problem is unsupported cables or fuse blocks mounted to the battery terminals. The vibrating cables transfer lots of force into the battery, and can cause failures. So support the cable as close to the battery as possible, and avoid attaching rigid items directly to the terminals (bus bars etc).




I am not familiar with your vehicles alternator system, but sometimes a higher voltage regulator is available (or can be made DIY). 14.1-14.4V is a decently high voltage that will charge your Aux most of the way, and won't cause undue stress on your starter battery for extended drives.
 
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john61ct

Adventurer
Sterling's BB line
what Sterling unit would be ideal for running a fridge in a camper on a 2017 Tacoma if I plan to have solar (live in Phx so seems to make sense) if I went with 2 of the 6V Golf Cart batteries from Costo and wanted to keep this super simple?
On the Solar I plan to run a big panel or 2 to get max power out of our constant sun here.

It's just a question of how many amps you want to send.

If you're never going to have a bank bigger than that 200AH, and will stick to FLA only, the 40A is enough.

But for future proofing, bigger the better, comes down to how much you're able to invest. Apparently Charles is coming out with 180 even 240A versions this year? Obviously larger than your biggest potential charge source would be silly, and you do need the wire gauge and termination/crimping to handle the current safely.

Keep in mind it will last decades, you'll go through many banks, likely change chemistries, Lifeline, Firefly Oasis, LFP whatever,

even change vehicles before you'll need to buy a new DCDC charger.

Don't get the Costco GCs unless you plan on scamming warranty or something, made by Interstate/JCI I believe.

The best value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) FLA from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club
 

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