netllama
Observer
I've recently returned from spending time in the Sahara desert, the largest of this planet's many deserts. More specifically, I spent nearly 2 weeks exploring very remote corners of the nation of Mauritania.
Some of you may be thinking, Mauri-what?? Mauritania doesn't get much attention (and relatively little tourism), but its actually the world's 29th largest country, and sits on Africa's west coast, south of Morocco & Algeria, north & west of Mali, and north of Senegal. Nearly 99% of the country is desert. Many consider it to be one of the world's last remaining traditional desert cultures (more on this in a bit). Truth be told, I originally wanted to visit Mali instead (Timbuktu, etc), but the security situation there made it impossible, if I wanted any assurance of returning alive & unharmed. Thus, I started searching for alternatives, that weren't overrun by tourists (Morocco, Egypt), didn't have painful entry requirements (Algeria, Sudan & Tunisia), and weren't considered unstable or dangerous (Libya, Chad & Niger). Technically, the US State Dept still categorizes Mauritania as a level 3 (reconsider travel) destination (just below the level 4 'do not travel'). However, all the information from those on the ground suggested that the warning was vastly overblown, and the chances of danger were quite low as long as I kept away from the eastern Algeria & Mali border region.
Mauritania is not a wealthy nation. Iron mining is their largest industry (google the 'iron ore train' for more on that), but that benefits very few of their citizens. Outside of their 2 coastal cities, most of the country lacks electricity, safe drinking water, or even a reliable food supply. While that's not good, it does mean that change is very slow, and many people still live very traditional lives. Many are still goat or camel herders, nomads, living in simple tents that they move based on the seasons & weather. Camel caravans are still a thing (although not quite at the same level as hundreds of years ago). Many days, I visited with these people, stopping in for tea. Or they'd visit us. One evening, just before sunset, as dinner was being prepared, this guy wandered into our camp, from I have no clue where. He shared tea with us, chatted for over an hour (well past sunset), then got up, and walked off into the darkness. I'm guessing he lived in some tent, somewhere out there, but it was both creepy and amazing to see him wander into the night, with nothing other than his experience to guide him.
Enough rambling, you came here for the photos, right?
For a sense of scale, look for the tiny, white Toyota Hilux parked in the center left
Dead horse tells no tales
Caravan route
Chinguetti dune sea
Oudane ancient mosque
the eye of the sahara. Can be literally seen from space.
Aderg
View opposite Aderg
Someone used to live here
Ben Amera, the 3rd largest monolith on Earth
final campsite
Goat transport
Look for the crocs on the sand bar
Well water
Eating the road
Sahara selfie
the wall
stuck!
a perfect spot for lunch
pyrex 23. A solid 2 hour drive from civilization, they wandered into our camp at dusk, wanting to sell random trinkets.
continued in the next post....
Some of you may be thinking, Mauri-what?? Mauritania doesn't get much attention (and relatively little tourism), but its actually the world's 29th largest country, and sits on Africa's west coast, south of Morocco & Algeria, north & west of Mali, and north of Senegal. Nearly 99% of the country is desert. Many consider it to be one of the world's last remaining traditional desert cultures (more on this in a bit). Truth be told, I originally wanted to visit Mali instead (Timbuktu, etc), but the security situation there made it impossible, if I wanted any assurance of returning alive & unharmed. Thus, I started searching for alternatives, that weren't overrun by tourists (Morocco, Egypt), didn't have painful entry requirements (Algeria, Sudan & Tunisia), and weren't considered unstable or dangerous (Libya, Chad & Niger). Technically, the US State Dept still categorizes Mauritania as a level 3 (reconsider travel) destination (just below the level 4 'do not travel'). However, all the information from those on the ground suggested that the warning was vastly overblown, and the chances of danger were quite low as long as I kept away from the eastern Algeria & Mali border region.
Mauritania is not a wealthy nation. Iron mining is their largest industry (google the 'iron ore train' for more on that), but that benefits very few of their citizens. Outside of their 2 coastal cities, most of the country lacks electricity, safe drinking water, or even a reliable food supply. While that's not good, it does mean that change is very slow, and many people still live very traditional lives. Many are still goat or camel herders, nomads, living in simple tents that they move based on the seasons & weather. Camel caravans are still a thing (although not quite at the same level as hundreds of years ago). Many days, I visited with these people, stopping in for tea. Or they'd visit us. One evening, just before sunset, as dinner was being prepared, this guy wandered into our camp, from I have no clue where. He shared tea with us, chatted for over an hour (well past sunset), then got up, and walked off into the darkness. I'm guessing he lived in some tent, somewhere out there, but it was both creepy and amazing to see him wander into the night, with nothing other than his experience to guide him.
Enough rambling, you came here for the photos, right?
For a sense of scale, look for the tiny, white Toyota Hilux parked in the center left
Dead horse tells no tales
Caravan route
Chinguetti dune sea
Oudane ancient mosque
the eye of the sahara. Can be literally seen from space.
Aderg
View opposite Aderg
Someone used to live here
Ben Amera, the 3rd largest monolith on Earth
final campsite
Goat transport
Look for the crocs on the sand bar
Well water
Eating the road
Sahara selfie
the wall
stuck!
a perfect spot for lunch
pyrex 23. A solid 2 hour drive from civilization, they wandered into our camp at dusk, wanting to sell random trinkets.continued in the next post....
