This is why you never use a trailer ball as an attachment point for a snatch rope or strap!

[DaveInDenver]

Of course cutting a notch into a ball or shackle will hasten its failure. That's aside the point. Still, people abuse trailer balls all the time, backing into stuff, letting them rust, shocking them on potholes, under or over torquing the nuts, welding them to draw bars. It wouldn't be any different for someone leaving his bow shackles hanging on the bumper 24/7/365, banging around, wearing grooves in the pins or coated with road salt. The WLL limits on anything are only good as long as there's no damage. Soft rigging doesn't absolve this need to take care of your junk, still have to watch for elongation, abrasion, cuts.

Your example of the shock going over a bump is exactly the point of not using a ball. You were probably using a larger ball with a 1" or 1-1/4" shank. So your weak point apparently was the hitch pin in double shear. A light duty 1-7/8" ball with a 5/8" or 3/4" shank put in some combination of tension and single shear is giving it all possible options to fail when shocked like that.

 

[Metcalf]

Of course cutting a notch into a ball or shackle will hasten its failure. That's aside the point. Still, people abuse trailer balls all the time, backing into stuff, letting them rust, shocking them on potholes, under or over torquing the nuts, welding them to draw bars. It wouldn't be any different for someone leaving his bow shackles hanging on the bumper 24/7/365, banging around, wearing grooves in the pins or coated with road salt. The WLL limits on anything are only good as long as there's no damage. Soft rigging doesn't absolve this need to take care of your junk, still have to watch for elongation, abrasion, cuts.

Your example of the shock going over a bump is exactly the point of not using a ball. You were probably using a larger ball with a 1" or 1-1/4" shank. So your weak point apparently was the hitch pin in double shear. A light duty 1-7/8" ball with a 5/8" or 3/4" shank put in some combination of tension and single shear is giving it all possible options to fail when shocked like that.

So only certain balls are dangerous? I think you are going in circles a bit.

At some point, all vehicle recovery is dangerous. Honestly, I would trust a trailer ball, in an off the shelf stinger, in a mass produced or oem hitch as much as some of the aftermarket industry recovery points on the market. There is no real standard to an of this stuff. There are a few million oem recovery hooks that are only attached with only two 1/2 bolts in single shear with an unrated weld nut through maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch of frame material.

In my opinion, most failures come from gross abuse, misuse, or the lack of the proper application of a shovel prior to recovery.

 

[DaveInDenver]

So only certain balls are dangerous? I think you are going in circles a bit.

It's not circular, some tow balls I think are worse than others. A ball with a 1.25" shank is obviously going to be very difficult to shear off in this type of failure mode. But I wouldn't trust any of them for a strap connection. I suspect you have the same reservations for other reasons, too, like the strap slipping off. But the likelihood of a class-5 tow ball becoming a projectile is probably small compared to a class-2 with a 5/8" shank, that's all I'm saying.

At some point, all vehicle recovery is dangerous. Honestly, I would trust a trailer ball, in an off the shelf stinger, in a mass produced or oem hitch as much as some of the aftermarket industry recovery points on the market. There is no real standard to an of this stuff. There are a few million oem recovery hooks that are only attached with only two 1/2 bolts in single shear with an unrated weld nut through maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch of frame material.

In my opinion, most failures come from gross abuse, misuse, or the lack of the proper application of a shovel prior to recovery.

I agree with all of your thoughts. We should never approach a recovery casually, it's easy to screw up being lazy.

Fully agree that some bumper clevises are beyond sketchy, surfaced welded on one side with a thick plate to a bumper face with a single pass fillet. Cosmetic at best, maybe as a convenient place to hang a shackle.

So sure, everything can eventually be tested, it's about sufficient margin. Those double bolt Jeep style tow hooks are marked 10,000 lbs but only held with two 1/2" bolts in single shear as you say. Yet a bolt-on clevis with 4 fasteners in tension is marked perhaps 3 tons. There's clearly a disconnect in how they are rated.

Typical brand name rated bow shackles are marked with either 3.25 tons or 4.75 tons WLL and will have, per standards, at least 5:1 design margin and 2:1 proof testing. So I think that's the root of it. Those 2-bolt hooks are 10,000 lbs absolute and if rated following the same spec as shackles (example is ASME B26) would likely be called more like 2,000 lbs.

 

[OverlandNA]

are these gadgets okay to use? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLMF23...5accde249a3&ref_=pd_luc_rh_bmx_02_04_t_img_lh

IF the hitch and mounting points are in good condition and you can do a straight pull, probably. If you are doing a side pull or taking a 30' running start, not so much.

 

[Metcalf]

It's not circular, some tow balls I think are worse than others. A ball with a 1.25" shank is obviously going to be very difficult to shear off in this type of failure mode. But I wouldn't trust any of them for a strap connection. I suspect you have the same reservations for other reasons, too, like the strap slipping off. But the likelihood of a class-5 tow ball becoming a projectile is probably small compared to a class-2 with a 5/8" shank, that's all I'm saying.

I agree with all of your thoughts. We should never approach a recovery casually, it's easy to screw up being lazy.

Fully agree that some bumper clevises are beyond sketchy, surfaced welded on one side with a thick plate to a bumper face with a single pass fillet. Cosmetic at best, maybe as a convenient place to hang a shackle.

So sure, everything can eventually be tested, it's about sufficient margin. Those double bolt Jeep style tow hooks are marked 10,000 lbs but only held with two 1/2" bolts in single shear as you say. Yet a bolt-on clevis with 4 fasteners in tension is marked perhaps 3 tons. There's clearly a disconnect in how they are rated.

Typical brand name rated bow shackles are marked with either 3.25 tons or 4.75 tons WLL and will have, per standards, at least 5:1 design margin and 2:1 proof testing. So I think that's the root of it. Those 2-bolt hooks are 10,000 lbs absolute and if rated following the same spec as shackles (example is ASME B26) would likely be called more like 2,000 lbs.

Yes, some tow balls could be more dangerous than others, but overall I think this issue is just pointing the blame at a single object in a very complex dangerous system.
I would however recommend avoiding it whenever possible.

I completely agree on the slipping off comment, I would much rather always see a closed system that cannot come undone with tension changes.

Alloy shackles with high known WLL is fine and dandy, but also gross overkill in a lot of ways. If they are grossly overrated for the application and attached to a sub-par recovery point, they have just as much risk as becoming a deadly overweight flying projectile as a trailer ball. We haven't really solved any root issues, we have only moved the problem around. I always like to eliminate as much mass from the rigging system as possible.

There is very little way to actually know what the ultimate failure point in most systems will be. Eventually, we even need to be thinking about bending the frame. Very rarely will you see someone bridle two recovery points together on a vehicle. I've seen more than one bent frame because of this. The sad part is that most experience in vehicle recovery comes from the school of hard knocks through trial and error. I've been doing this a long long time, I have some professional training and experience, and have come out ok so far. I have seen some VERY sketchy stuff on the trail with people that just won't listen.

Stay safe.

 

[Metcalf]

IF the hitch and mounting points are in good condition and you can do a straight pull, probably. If you are doing a side pull or taking a 30' running start, not so much.

I think if you are taking a 30' run at it while doing a vehicle recovery you are doing it wrong.

More shovel, less redneck.

 

[patoz]

are these gadgets okay to use? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLMF23...5accde249a3&ref_=pd_luc_rh_bmx_02_04_t_img_lh

As long as the insert is a solid piece of steel with a machined shackle lug, and not a piece of square tubing with a shackle lug welded on the end of it, you should be OK. I bought one of these myself about a year ago, but I haven't used it yet.

This system is only as strong as the receiver hitch it's inserted into, and the quality of the receiver pin. The receiver hitch needs to be thoroughly inspected for any signs of penetrating rust, it's mounting bolts, and the frame areas where it's mounted. Most receiver hitches are constructed using box tubing for the cross pieces, so if the ends are open get a flashlight or inspection camera and try to evaluate the inside of that tubing, especially in the northern climates where salt is used on the roads. The salt can get inside the tubing, sit there, and eat it up from the inside out.

Also, keep in mind a trailer hitch it designed to predominately pull things in a straight line, and that's were it's the strongest. All loads are divided equally from the ball through the hitch, and down each side of the vehicle frame. Now, if you start side loading that shackle insert, which happens quite often when snatching a vehicle out of a mud hole or ditch, you apply uneven forces to each side of the hitch. One side will experience expansion while the other side will expedience compression. This is the equivalent of bending a piece of metal back forth by hand. You do it enough and something is going to break. The same compression and expansion occurs when the tow vehicle turns while pulling a heavy load, but the forces are no where near what a snatching operation can put on that hitch, or any recovery point.

 

[s.e.charles]

more better to have hooks put in the frame then?

 

[Metcalf]

more better to have hooks put in the frame then?

Hooks really aren't the best solution in my opinion, I would much rather have a closed system.

I don't really think a reciever hitch is a bad idea, it is probably better engineered than most aftermarket systems on the market.

Finding someone you trust more than an OEM to design and manufacture a recovery point isn't that easy. Just because the part is nice and thick doesn't mean it is well engineered.

 

[MOguy]

Recovery point mounted to the frame are the best, many vehicles are unibody and don't have adequate recovery points if the vehicle is seriously stuck, hitch is often the only option. This year I have had at least a 1/2 a dozen calls from people (many of them my sons friends) wanting me to get them unstuck from being stupid. I will recover people I am off roading with if they have an adequate recovery points, but on road I usually won't.

I live rural and people are sliding off the road all the time. I have a jeep that weighs less than 4k with big tires and a winch, people think I am a wrecker. They don't understand I why can't tow their 7500lb one ton with over sided tires out of a ditch and back onto the highway. I won't touch anything on the road unless LE is there stopping traffic and done whatever they need to do. I won't go out if there is ice on the roads.

I would never hook to a ball on a hitch.

 

[Metcalf]

Recovery point mounted to the frame are the best, many vehicles are unibody and don't have adequate recovery points if the vehicle is seriously stuck, hitch is often the only option. This year I have had at least a 1/2 a dozen calls from people (many of them my sons friends) wanting me to get them unstuck from being stupid. I will recover people I am off roading with if they have an adequate recovery points, but on road I usually won't.

I live rural and people are sliding off the road all the time. I have a jeep that weighs less than 4k with big tires and a winch, people think I am a wrecker. They don't understand I why can't tow their 7500lb one ton with over sided tires out of a ditch and back onto the highway. I won't touch anything on the road unless LE is there stopping traffic and done whatever they need to do. I won't go out if there is ice on the roads.

I would never hook to a ball on a hitch.

How do you determine what is an 'adequate recovery point'?

 

[MOguy]

How do you determine what is an 'adequate recovery point'?

Legit recovery points attached to the frame or with a unibody attached to whatever attaches to the suspension, bumper and significant body structure. I will have the stuck person hook it and let them know that damage is possible.

 

[Metcalf]

Legit recovery points attached to the frame or with a unibody attached to whatever attaches to the suspension, bumper and significant body structure. I will have the stuck person hook it and let them know that damage is possible.

Fair enough. I see a lot of sketchy stuff, I feel bad taking pictures of it.....but some of it just makes me shiver.
I find myself running a bridle to multiple points to spread the load out as much as practical.

 

[MOguy]

Fair enough. I see a lot of sketchy stuff, I feel bad taking pictures of it.....but some of it just makes me shiver.
I find myself running a bridle to multiple points to spread the load out as much as practical.

Yep, a good example would be wrapping a strap around a bumper or around a sway bar.

 

[Metcalf]

Yep, a good example would be wrapping a strap around a bumper or around a sway bar.

As long as the bumper is smooth and well mounted, I don't see a problem with it. I actually prefer it in a lot of ways.
I use a soft shackle to go around square and round tube bumpers and chassis parts all the time. That is one of the reasons I like making my soft shackles longer than most on the market.

Sway bar. Oh gees, how did that go?