Thoughts and Recommendations

[Brian McVickers]

Hi,
My stepfather has an older Jeep Wrangler, 1997 maybe.

He uses it for light exploration and has done very light mods to it:
winch and bumper, jerry can holder, sliders, small OME lift and 31 inch tires.

He is wanting to add a locker to provide more safety and capability, I think it would be good for what he does with it especially since he and my mom often go out alone.

Here is my question:
The shop he took his Jeep to recommended and quoted him for: front TruTrack, Rear ARB, compressor, upgraded 30 spline rear axle shafts, regear to 4.11 front and rear.

This is way overkill for what they use this jeep for in my opinion and I sort of think the shop is trying to take advantage of him and generate business.

I strongly recommended to him to only install the ARB locker and the small ARB compressor, nothing else.

What does anyone else think?

Brian

 

[ntsqd]

I can see where the shop might be coming from, and it isn't just to exploit the possibility of up-selling, but from your description a rear only ARB does sound like about all that they need.

The one thing is that such a rear diff will work the axle shafts a lot harder when engaged. For that reason I can see up-grading the axle shafts as potentially a good call. If they are known to be nearly indestructible then I wouldn't bother, but if there is more than a hint that they might have a short life span when hooked to a locker of any sort then I'd grab them too.

The other possible option, and not owning a Jeep I've only heard about this and not explored it, would be to buy one of the Rubicon electric locking rear axle assemblies and bolt the whole thing in. Might be more cost effective, dunno.

 

[TCM]

With the exception of the TruTrack I think these mods are spot on. An ARB is the absolute best choice for a locking diff and the factory axles are a known weakness in TJs. Replacing them with 30 spline units in conjunction with the ARB is perfect timing. And while the diff is completely disassembled putting in 4.10 gears also makes the most sense. As for the TruTrack I think they are of dubious value. He would be better off just putting another ARB in the front with matching alloy shafts and gears.

 

[Brian McVickers]

I agree, the axle shafts would be the next logical upgrade, but they are not doing rock crawling trails where they will be wedging the tires between rocks and such.

Mostly they will encounter mud, sand, and the occasional small ledge to get up.

Brian

 

[Brian McVickers]

With 31 inch tires and a lightly loaded vehicle I think the re-gearing is an unnecessary expenditure. The vehicle is not struggling on the highway and the current gearing does them fine on the trail.

I don't think they will elver need to re-gear this vehicle, however I agree that now would be the best time if they needed it.


Any more information on the axles being weak?

Brian

 

[Root Moose]

I'll echo everyone else. Maybe skip the axles and add stainless air lines. If it becomes a future issue the axles can be done in the driveway - no problem.

I think regearing is worth doing and if you are doing it anyway you might as well add a TAD to the front to capitalize on the labour costs. I say ARB for the front.

It's fun spending other people's money.

 

[ntsqd]

With 31 inch tires and a lightly loaded vehicle I think the re-gearing is an unnecessary expenditure. The vehicle is not struggling on the highway and the current gearing does them fine on the trail.

That was my reading between the lines guess. I'd skip that step. Yeah it would be the most opportune time to do it, but if they don't need it then why spend the money?

 

[Brian McVickers]

That was my reading between the lines guess. I'd skip that step. Yeah it would be the most opportune time to do it, but if they don't need it then why spend the money?

They either use it based out of their cabin in the Missouri woods or tow it behind their RV for exploring.

 

[NOMADIC_LJ]

Dana 35 axles are not the strongest. Add a locker and bigger then stock tire and you are just tempting fate.

Go with the rear ARB and look into chromoly shafts or a super35 kit. I would not regear.

BTW If saftey is a concern since they go out alone, I would make sure they have some armor under there before you think locker. A sharp root or a rock can bust an oil pan pretty quick without proper protection.

 

[goodtimes]

Brian,

Does the jeep have coil springs (TJ), or leaf springs (YJ)? If you are unsure about the year, and guessing at a '97, then it could go either way....

TJs (coil sprung dana 35's) are just begging for a super 35 kit. A broken axle will result in the whole darn thing sliding out (tire/wheel/axle shaft).

YJs (leaf sprung dana 35's) are just begging for a ford 8.8 (?) swap. This is essentially a bolt in affair. From what I understand, this is cheaper than the Super 35 kit.

As for regearing and locking the front...I'd forget about it. Put the ARB in the back (along with the compressor), and be done with it.

 

[booger]

i'd put an Aussie in the front and be done.

i've been VERY happy with this setup in my TJ.

 

[nwoods]

I think the off road shop's suggestions are in line with the intended use. There's a logic to them. The stock Dana 30 or 35 axles in the jeep are not very strong. If you are going to add a locker, it really is best to upgrade them. If you are tearing into the diff and adding a locker, it makes sense to get the locker and axles sized appropriately and 4:11 gearing is generally a great range for off road trail use and highway also. The Rubicon's came with that gearing from the factory, and were on 31" tires initially, and 32" in later years i think (?)

Instead of the front locker, they might be better off getting a winch and 2" budget boost.

 

[computeruser]

If it were my Jeep and it had a D35 in the rear, I'd find a donor TJ D44. I see no sense whatsoever in putting any money into a D35, especially if doing so means using some atypical, aftermarket axle.

What gear ratio does he have currently? If 3.73, I'd leave it be. If not, I'd use the opportunity of the locker install to regear to a happier place.

As for the locker, a properly installed ARB seems like the best way to go. You could have him purchase one of the pre-built ready to bolt in replacement axles and then sell off the D35, with a net cost that would be pretty reasonable. Then regear the front, if necessary, and be good to go.

 

[grahamfitter]

My big question is how often would a locker actually be needed? (How often is the winch used now?)

The risk here seems to be installing an expensive locker in the existing axles might cause expensive destruction of those axles. I wonder whether it would be better to make sure the current OME suspension has as much articulation as it possibly can to keep more wheels in play, and reduce the need for a locker in the first place. Plus there's already a winch on the vehicle which further reduces the consequences of getting stuck.

Just my two cents, of course.

Cheers,
Graham

 

[Lumberjack]

I see no sense whatsoever in putting any money into a D35

I Agree!!! As far as I am concerned the D35 is a safety hazard! Sell the turdy-five and find a Stock D44, put in ARB... done right the first time all for about the same money as a polished...

The front Dana 30 is plenty strong for 31"s along with the 3.73 gearing.



Dennis