high-and-dry
Active member
I went thru the same thing. go look at my axle thread title i got my axle its wrong. The first wrong axle was ordered thru bend trailers, they sent it to redneck trailers. I dont know if redneck deals direct with with customers but you might want to look them up. Then they went thru tex trail for the new axle, who only sells to other resellers.
As for dexter, yes you can call the Indiana plant where the troflex are made and order but you will pay more. As for specing the axle its tricky but not too hard. Yes they sell with jeep and toyota lug spacing. A warning with the toyota spacing, you cant run center caps on the rim without using a spacer, even then the rim is like a 1/4 inch from the "swing" arm with no speacer. I ordered a 1/4 shim spacer just to give me a little more room. Also the lugs are 1/2 inch, they will not work with stock toyota lug nuts, and standard 1/2 lug nuts will not work with toyota rims. You have two options, put in new lugs at 6 bucks each, or special lug nuts at 20 something for 20 of em ( thats how I went ) thread below on toyota rim stuff.
Now to do the math on axles, you need to remember a couple things. One trailer rims have 0 offset, so if you go different rims you need to take this in to account. Next there are limits to the torflex axle, ie how close or far the hub face is from the support/frame. So if you doing a custom frame I say start with how wide you want the rims. figure out how far the hub face on the rim is from the inside of the tire your going to run. Then add an inch or two for clearance. then figure thats where the frame has to go. Then you need to make sure your with in the required space, I think its 4 min, 9 max.
My hub space is 68 inches, my frame is 52 inches. I will edit a pic in of the axle with the rim attached ( no 1/4 inch spacer ) in a few mins so you can see how it works out
I had to draw it out one side full scale to make sure it works. I recommend doing that, start with where the rims will be, draw in the hub face ( using the actual offset of the rim and tire )
then work out the frame location.
If your going on the existing frame, measure the out side of the frame, look at the rim/tire and see how far out you need the hub face to clear the frame by an inch or so. then make sure it fits the min max that torflex can do.
expeditionportal.com
expeditionportal.com
BTW i found timbren harder to spec out, figuring the ride height part out was impossible. I spoke to timbren, they said they cant spec it, call etrailer, etrailer said they cant spec it they just want the part numbers I want, they said call timbren to spec it out. Well i am using a torflex due to that issue.
As for dexter, yes you can call the Indiana plant where the troflex are made and order but you will pay more. As for specing the axle its tricky but not too hard. Yes they sell with jeep and toyota lug spacing. A warning with the toyota spacing, you cant run center caps on the rim without using a spacer, even then the rim is like a 1/4 inch from the "swing" arm with no speacer. I ordered a 1/4 shim spacer just to give me a little more room. Also the lugs are 1/2 inch, they will not work with stock toyota lug nuts, and standard 1/2 lug nuts will not work with toyota rims. You have two options, put in new lugs at 6 bucks each, or special lug nuts at 20 something for 20 of em ( thats how I went ) thread below on toyota rim stuff.
Now to do the math on axles, you need to remember a couple things. One trailer rims have 0 offset, so if you go different rims you need to take this in to account. Next there are limits to the torflex axle, ie how close or far the hub face is from the support/frame. So if you doing a custom frame I say start with how wide you want the rims. figure out how far the hub face on the rim is from the inside of the tire your going to run. Then add an inch or two for clearance. then figure thats where the frame has to go. Then you need to make sure your with in the required space, I think its 4 min, 9 max.
My hub space is 68 inches, my frame is 52 inches. I will edit a pic in of the axle with the rim attached ( no 1/4 inch spacer ) in a few mins so you can see how it works out
I had to draw it out one side full scale to make sure it works. I recommend doing that, start with where the rims will be, draw in the hub face ( using the actual offset of the rim and tire )
then work out the frame location.
If your going on the existing frame, measure the out side of the frame, look at the rim/tire and see how far out you need the hub face to clear the frame by an inch or so. then make sure it fits the min max that torflex can do.
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Wrong axle received, new axle also received. case closed.
Okay I ordered a dexter torflex axlw thru bend trailers in oregon. I specified on the order form the weight I wanted. I spoke to 2 people there, which is a total night mare out of a few calls. I left 4 or 5 messages never received a return call. The axle is a number 10, was supposed to be rated...
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M100 aftermarket axle for Toyota bolt pattern
I am going thru this right now as well. The main reason for using the spacer is it lets the center cap fit, if you look at the pic Mischief posted above you can see the grease cap is out to far. Also using the spacers would allow you get the spacer nicely lug centered and tight then the rim...
![expeditionportal.com](https://expeditionportal.com/wp-content/themes/expo4/images/logo-header-k.png)
BTW i found timbren harder to spec out, figuring the ride height part out was impossible. I spoke to timbren, they said they cant spec it, call etrailer, etrailer said they cant spec it they just want the part numbers I want, they said call timbren to spec it out. Well i am using a torflex due to that issue.