Timing belt job not right...and maybe valve guides seals too!!

[mapper]

I took my new (to me) 98 Montero to a recommended shop to have the valve guide seals and timing belt replaced (along with ancillary bits including new, updated, crank bolt). I hate using mechanics because it seems something always goes wrong. Unfortunately I'm busy with lots of projects to tackle and wasn't feeling remotely motivated for this job. I noticed the noise straight away when I picked it up but I was tired and happy to finally have the truck back. Wasn't until later that I concluded I really should have left it at the shop. My trusted mechanic doesn't do valve guide seals and told me this was the guy I wanted for the job.

Truck runs well, however...

First issue...the car now has a perpetual ticka, ticka, ticka, ticka that wasn't there before. He suggested it was a lifter tick when I first commented on it and I thought about the lash adjuster bleed issues I've read about. Seemed a logical issue and I wasn't too worried. Tried that bleed procedure last night to no avail...the more time I spent with it the more I realized this noise sounds a lot more powerful than noisy lifter.


So here is what I'm thinking:
1) timing is slightly off OR
2)the reluctor blade on the crank is contacting the crank position sensor. It seems this is a common issue that gets messed up.

The tick noise is consistent with RPM. I count about 9-10 ticks per second at idle...which matches the ~600 RPM at idle

Thoughts? Anyone in Salt Lake City area want to have a listen in exchange for a beverage?

I drove it about 25-30 miles on the highway already (hopefully not a mistake?) getting the OBD ready for emissions testing and tried the valve lash adjuster bleed for about 5 minutes now I'm really regretting having run it that long.

Also...
I ran the truck today, in daylight, for the first time since picking it up. Still smokes!!
The guy doing the work told me he wanted to pull the heads for the job but would attempt to do it without pulling heads. Ultimately that is the course he took. He told me he did a leak down on each cylinder and they all "passed". I forget the psi range he mentioned.

Maybe it is still burning off some residual oil, but you'd think after 25-30 miles on the highway it be cleared out. Right?

Additionally I noticed the power steering support bracket was hanging loose and ABS light is on, wasn't before. He told me he'd check out the ABS system in the future as I mentioned it straight away but hardly thought it to be a priority

Anyway feeling sick about the whole deal now. Obviously it's going back to the shop. I just spent a good chunk of cash ($1500 to be exact) to have seemingly nothing fixed and 2 new problems. OK, yes, leaky valve covers are now sealed and the cracked T belt and bad tensioner are replaced but I'm still afraid to drive the truck. It does drive well though

 

[mapper]

One more thing regarding recommended torque for new crank bolt.

I bought it from the dealer (Ken Garff). The parts guy and a tech told me the bolt should be torqued to 2 lb pounds under spec. Otherwise the reluctor ring/crank position sensor could be damaged. Of course I passed the info on to my mech but who knows how closely he actually followed.

Anyone else heard this?

The number of crank bolt issues related to the engine are mind boggling (once you start googling). I came across some posts on the net suggesting I needed an updated washer too. Never came across that in earlier research. Anyone heard of this washer update?

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Bummer man, threads like this are one of the many reasons why I do my own work.

 

[mapper]

Bummer man, threads like this are one of the many reasons why I do my own work.

Trust me, I know. However, reality is that I'm just one guy and can't do everything in life myself.

 

[mapper]

Mechanic returned my call today and sent a flat bed to pick up the truck. He seemed genuinely embarrassed, his word, about the issues and promised he'd "make it right". As much as it remains to be seen what the outcome will be, I have to give him some props for responding so quickly, on a Sunday no less, not many shops work on a Sunday in Utah. I have to give him the benefit of the doubt as he didn't hesitate for a second take it back

Found out he's the guy the owns the shop and I'm wondering if he might have had one of his employees doing some/all of the work. I was really surprised my regular mechanic sent me to a place that caused this kind of grief. That said, nobody's perfect.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

I hope all will end well and he isn't just blowing smoke.

 

[twocommas]

I have similar problems with my '98. I have no oil leaks (replaced all seals when I bought it), but I still go through a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. I notice that if I idle, there is quite a bit of smoke once I take off. Smoke is noticeable. There is also a ticking sound when idling, and it gets faster as I get moving.

 

[SlickRicksBricks]

My truck ticks too and I recently did the belt....I need to know more about this issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MARKSMONTE]

Just as a suggestion, somthing my grandpa taught me.
Get a long 24'' screw driver and put the handle to your ear, hold on to the handle but plug your ear with it. Then touch the tip of the screwdriver to diffrent locations on the engine while it is running. Being careful goes without saying but I said it anyway.
You will be amazed at what you hear and can pinpoint the location of the noise.
You can hear bad bearings, lifters, waterpump failing, whatever is making a out of ordinary noise.

 

[mapper]

Thanks for the recent comments.

I've used the screwdriver trick many times. Tried it on this motor and I couldn't pin point anything. I did pay the mechanic to do the work so my first course of action was to send it back to him.

Two Commas...have you replaced the valve guide seals? That is the most likely culprit for the smoking. I had the job done, along with a timing belt. I didn't have my truck back long enough to see if it really still smoked or was still burning off residual "junk".

Presently, he (mechanic) took the truck back and made the determination that it was lifters making the noise. He was hoping they would "pump up" but told me that he'd keep the truck until it was silent...as it was when I dropped it off. He told me that he specifically listened for noisy lifters before starting to work on the motor because he was working with the valve train and that is the time to replace lifters, if needed...The parts are relatively cheap. Since he knew it was silent when I dropped it off and the lifters are making noise now, he went ahead and ordered new lifters and will be installing them this week. Hopefully all will be well after that.

He's been very busy and I originally told him to "squeeze the truck in when you (mechanic) have time". He got interrupted on the job more than once as he's the shop owner. Because he did the job over a few days all the oil likely drained out of the lifters. I'm leaving town at the end of the week and am swamped this week so I asked him to try getting it done by next week Tuesday.

Really hoping he's shooting straight with me and the truck comes back silent and smoke free. As far as I can tell he's a good mechanic, and guy, and came highly recommended by another mechanic I trust. Hardest part for me is how long the job has taken...partially my own fault since I told him to squeeze it in and not stress the job. By the time this is all said and done he'll have had the truck about a month!!! I'm getting antsy to play with my new toy!

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Lifter noise "fix" http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/minutemods/lifter_noise/

 

[mapper]

Lifter noise "fix" http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/minutemods/lifter_noise/

Already tried that. Stated in my first post of this thread that upon receiving the truck post repair I assumed the above linked procedure would solve my noise. It didn't.

Failing that "repair" is the point at which I worried about there being a different problem. I suspect the mechanic, after I returned it to him, tried that approach too with similar results...OR lack thereof. Appreciate the comment but it is in his hands to rectify at the moment...

 

[zjrog]

That 4x4wire link has been around forever and has rarely been a fix for any substantial number for people. At least within the FWD Mopar community. I had a 1987 Dodge Grand Caravan with the FWD Chrysler variant of the 6G72. Most of the ticking issues required the lift adjusters to be replaced. I did try a number of different cleanings and such before replacing them. That motor was just plain awesome for what it was. Too bad performance parts for the SOHC versions are lacking in the US, I do know of a number of folks running Australian performance parts though.

 

[off-roader]

That 4x4wire link has been around forever and has rarely been a fix for any substantial number for people.

Yup. The problem isn't always the VLA which is what that article was written for.

Hope you figure out the cause.

 

[mapper]

That 4x4wire link has been around forever and has rarely been a fix for any substantial number for people. At least within the FWD Mopar community. I had a 1987 Dodge Grand Caravan with the FWD Chrysler variant of the 6G72. Most of the ticking issues required the lift adjusters to be replaced. I did try a number of different cleanings and such before replacing them. That motor was just plain awesome for what it was. Too bad performance parts for the SOHC versions are lacking in the US, I do know of a number of folks running Australian performance parts though.

This. Sorry folks I updated another thread but not this one.

I took the Montero back to the mechanic who did the t-belt/valve stem seal job and asked him to get it right. He agreed my motor was silent before the job as he always checks these motors before digging into the head. Because replacing VLAs is easier while doing valve stem seals. Mine just weren't able to be "re-bled". He took the intake all back apart and replaced the VLA/lifters for me under warranty from the previous job. It took forever as he had recently moved his shop, in the meantime someone tried to steal my catalytic converter and damaged it and my y-pipe, so he repaired that at the same time and didn't charge me a dime.

Good mechanic, great guy for standing up for the work he did...just took a super long time (I had other cars to drive and I never put serious pressure on him, so he kept putting more pressing jobs ahead of it). My motor runs beautifully and silently now. It just purrs and there is no smoke at all. The whole job was fairly reasonable and he ultimately he seemed to know his way around this motor. I'd recommend him to others for this job so anyone in the Salt Lake Valley can hit me up with a PM if they want the contact information.