Tips for stuck fuel filter?

My fuel filter is stuck on pretty good, I've tried wire brushing the threads/bolts, soaking it with PB Blaster, using wrenches, flare nut wrenches, crow foot wrenches on a ratchet, socket on the top bolt, etc. It just starts rounding the nut/bolt off and flexing the lines, starting to twist and collapse them. Normally I would heat the heck out of a stuck bolt, but for obvious reasons I can't do that here (fuel), it's a bit annoying for what should be a 10 minute job, any tips for these?
 

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CharlieNorth

Well-known member
Possible option, if the fitting back at the tank can be disconnected, and logically up front at a hose to the engine, drill into the filter to drain it.
Now heat the fittings.
I ended up running new Cu-Nickle lines 6 years ago on my 95.
 

axlesandantennas

Approved Vendor
I've had lots of great results with Kroil in the past.

Is that mount easy to find a new one? If so, I would cut the mount off and then go to work on the remainder.
 
Possible option, if the fitting back at the tank can be disconnected, and logically up front at a hose to the engine, drill into the filter to drain it.
Now heat the fittings.
I ended up running new Cu-Nickle lines 6 years ago on my 95.

Did you buy the lines in length and add fittings or was there a kit? I'm all for replacing the lines too if I can.
 
I've had lots of great results with Kroil in the past.

Is that mount easy to find a new one? If so, I would cut the mount off and then go to work on the remainder.

The new filter comes with a new bracket attached. I thought about cutting the filter out and trying to save the threads and connectors, but again, using a cutting wheel with fuel is not really an option.
 

CharlieNorth

Well-known member
I buy the line in a 25' roll. Fitting are either reused or new. The Northeast is tough on these, fuel and brakes. I have towed 300+ miles with only trailer brakes. Not enjoyable. I have driven 100 miles leaving a wet trail of fuel.

In your case I expect all your lines are good, just stuck fittings.
Cutting the filter can be done but you do want to get it drained as much as possible to reduce how much it "wakes you up" when you heat it. As I get older I do not jump very gracefully anymore, especially from laying under a vehicle.
 

Roaddude

Long time off-grid vanlife adventurist
Where PB Blaster has not worked for me, I've had great luck under body and with stuck door hinges and such with CRC 03027 Knock'Er Loose Plus Penetrating Solvent.

Spray it on, tap the connections all around, let it sit, and do it periodically over a day or two. And watch how this guy, Steven Cox, suggests working stuck bolts loose without busting them off:


After watching his vid and getting Knock'Er Loose, I was able to bust things loose I had not been able to do with PB Blaster and heat from my wimpy propane torch.

knock-er-loose_6062-800.JPG

.
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
Chop it out......no use trying to fight it....go to nylon line with quick disconnects and forget about it. Modernize your Montero.

See my thread « Midwest rust blues »

 
Chop it out......no use trying to fight it....go to nylon line with quick disconnects and forget about it. Modernize your Montero.

See my thread « Midwest rust blues »


How did you join the nylon to the stock lines? I would probably need to get a universal filter like yours to use the compression fittings right?
 
Where PB Blaster has not worked for me, I've had great luck under body and with stuck door hinges and such with CRC 03027 Knock'Er Loose Plus Penetrating Solvent.

Spray it on, tap the connections all around, let it sit, and do it periodically over a day or two. And watch how this guy, Steven Cox, suggests working stuck bolts loose without busting them off:


After watching his vid and getting Knock'Er Loose, I was able to bust things loose I had not been able to do with PB Blaster and heat from my wimpy propane torch.

View attachment 655985

.
Thanks! I'll check if CAL ranch or o'reilly's has it.
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
How did you join the nylon to the stock lines? I would probably need to get a universal filter like yours to use the compression fittings right?
You buy compression fittings that attach to the steel on one side and nylon on the other. I used Dorman and S.U.R. & R
and yes, a universal filter compatible with quick disconnects. It will take you more time to plan the job than to actually do the work. It’s almost fun to work with the stuff. Just pick a relatively rust free section of the line, cut it with a rotating pipe cutter, sand it to clean it up and throw on the compression fitting.
 

axlesandantennas

Approved Vendor
Do you own flaring tools or have access to them?
If you have to do that, go with this flaring tool. I used it on brake lines I made for my CJ5 I had last year. It works sooooooooo much better than the ones most people use:


Just make sure you get the correct size as they don't come with adaptors.
 

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