Tire deflator kit??

[Comanche Scott]

With the stock Rubicon tires (BFG KM) at the stock 37 psi street pressure, I used a set of Trailhead Deflators
http://www.amazon.com/TRAILHEAD-Tire-Deflators-Billet4x4-OFF-ROAD/dp/B005VF7M00
They worked great after initial setup, and were very accurate.
The down side is that the start pressure has to be twice the finish pressure. Since I rarely air down to less than 15 psi on the 35" S/T Maxx, they don't work with a start pressure of 28psi.
So I went to an ARB deflator.
http://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator/dp/B004LQCDOA
It is very quick, and allows a bit of B.S. time with buddies using a slower device.

 

[toymaster]

..... I think people are underestimating the massive difference between airing down by pushing in the schrader and by removing the core. .....

This twice you have mentioned 'removing the core'. Do you remove the valve stem core? if so, why? Are you confused and think for some reason using a screw on valve (like the staun brand) requires removal of the core? All that is required to use the staun or similiar unit is to remove the valve stem cap and screw on the deflator.

 

[Robert Bills]

These are the deflators I have used to air down for the past 25 years. Simple, cheap ($11.99), nothing to break, and I'm usually done at about the same time as guys using their $85 deflator kits. Even on those occasions when it takes me longer, I use the time to inspect my rig for any problems, leaks, loose gear, etc. so the time isn't wasted.

This is similar to the air gauge I use. Nothing fancy. My theory is that 100% accuracy isn't as important as consistency. If I always use the same gauge I will know all of my tires are inflated to the same psi.

 

[Comanche Scott]

This twice you have mentioned 'removing the core'. Do you remove the valve stem core? if so, why? Are you confused and think for some reason using a screw on valve (like the staun brand) requires removal of the core? All that is required to use the staun or similiar unit is to remove the valve stem cap and screw on the deflator.

He's not confused at all. The ARB deflator is a 4 step process.
1). Screw on the deflator
2). Unscrew the core
3), slide the ring to deflate the tire to your specific pressure
4). Screw the core back in place
The core is captured in the deflator, and the sliding ring covers (or uncovers) two large holes that let the air out. it is definitely faster per tire, than a screw on deflator that depresses the core stem to relieve air.

So why is this a great way to do it?
There are times I change tire pressures twice in one day. I'll air down to 20-22 psi for fast fire roads/paved roads. Then drop the tire pressure to 15psi for rocks, or deep sand.
In my other rig, I'll drop pressure to the single digits.
So this one single device does all, multiple times in one day for some situations. Like this weekend, we were running fast fire roads, that lead to a beach. Two different pressures.

That said they both do a great job. :beer:

 

[thethePete]

^ Exactly. Thank you.

I've inflated and deflated a few tires. I'm pretty familiar with the components of a valve stem. That's how I know that pulling the core is orders of magnitude faster than depressing the schrader button no matter how you do either. It's why I went with an ARB deflator. That and as mentioned above, I use a few different pressures, depending on conditions.

 

[RubiconGeoff]

Over the years I've used almost every deflator on the market. I somehow wound up with 2 sets of the Staun deflators, so I have one set adjusted for "high pressure" use (i.e. 18psi for general off-road use) and the other set adjusted for "low pressure" use (i.e. 12psi snow, rocks, sand). I also have a set of simple deflators like Robert Bills posted above for use with a pressure gauge for when I need to manually lower the pressure to single digits. This setup has worked out great for my needs.

For reinflation purposes, I have a portable Puma 12v compressor & tank with a standard coiled air hose and a cheapo Harbor Freight inflation chuck & gauge. The gauge isn't accurate, but it's consistent, and the compressor is very fast, especially with the tank as a pressure buffer.

Airing down takes ~3 minutes, airing back up takes ~10 minutes.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Puma fast!

X2 on the Puma :victory:

That's a great idea to have two sets. Then if there is an "in between time" you could always screw on a set, and make a final adjustment with a pencil gauge. :beer:

 

[ericvs]

For the way I use tire deflators, I wanted ones that you could drive with. Most of these you can't install and drive, so you sort of have to just sit there and wait. I found these:

http://trailheaddeflators.com/


http://www.amazon.com/Power-Tank-THD-8150-TrailHead-Deflator/dp/B004M9L2KC/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464744093&sr=1-4&keywords=trailhead+tire+deflators+blue

They make a red and a blue. Red is 5-20psi and blue is 20-40 psi.

You can drive with them on after you install them (up to 20mph, not highway speeds) I generally put them on near the beach, and they auto deflate to the pressure I set. I run 25psi in my tires for beach driving. Usually the first part of the beach is pretty hard where everyone drives in, so you can head out with more pressure in the tires. Then by the time you get to the soft stuff, you are aired down appropriately. They are a bit spendy, but I like that you install, drive then remove. They have always given me very consistent readings after using as well.

 

[mnewxcv]

i ordered this and it arrives tomorrow. Will let you know how it is; looks like a ARB copy cat.

http://www.amazon.com/tire-Deflator...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

[HAFICON]

WOW.. thanks for all the replies... sounds like ARB is the way to go.. For me doing all 4 tires at once is not as important as getting all 4 done in a timely manner...

 

[larcie]

I have Staun deflators and an ARB deflator.
By the time I have done a lap around the vehicle,
removing valve caps and screwing on the deflator four times,
then another lap removing deflators and re applying valve caps,
I have dome one lap. taken 1 minute at each corner with the ARB.
so, Time is about the same, one lap less and just as happy.
both units work well, My preference is the ARB, yours?

 

[eaneumann]

I've used both and the Stauns are much easier. Both a good option. I like that I can air down all four at once.

 

[WininUtah]

I was using Staun type deflators but changed to an ARB with my JK, I like the way it works, quick and accurate.

 

[cliffv]

Not exactly a kit but I use one of these:



Carry a few of these (just in case) -



And use a generic round dial gauge. My 'kit' is inexpensive, reliable, and I can work on my squats while deflating.

Reinflating I use one of these for my XJ, it's slow and I can cook on it but it gets the job done -



Regards,

Cliff

 

[nosheep]

Another vote for the ARB I air down my 32's with ease. I like the option to air down to what I want not the preset to 13 (or whatever you choose) I may start the dirt road with 25psi things get rocky drop to 18 ish things get sandy drop to 12 ish .

I air back up with a Viair 400p and cant complain.